Although various insects make silk, the mulberry silk moth is used for commercial production. After hatching, silkworms eat mulberry leaves constantly. 25 grams of eggs may need a ton of leaves. When they stop eating, they start making cocoons by producing a sticky liquid with their salivary glands. The liquid hardens when exposed to air and forms a continuous filament.

           The silkworm constructs its cocoon by weaving the filament into figures of eight held together by sericin, a gummy substance. The hardening of the cocoon is affected by heat and moisture. Excessive amounts will degrade the quality of the final product. Normally a moth emerges from the cocoon in a little over a week by producing a liquid which dissolves the sericin. Because this process disrupts the threads of the cocoon, most silkworms are killed before they emerge. The survivors are allowed to mate to produce more eggs.

            The cocoons containing the dead silkworms are softened by being placed in very hot water. This releases the end of each filament, which is then combined with the ends of other cocoons to make a continuous thread for weaving. (It is estimated that about 110 cocoons are needed to make a tie, about 630 to make a blouse).This is followed by procedures including boiling to remove the sericin, dyeing, weaving, or knitting. Variations in the finishing will produce different silk fabrics, including:

• Charmeuse – medium to heavy weight, with excellent drape, a lustrous sheen and smooth feel; used for undergarments, lingerie, blouses, dresses, formal gowns
• Crepe de Chine – lightweight, good drape, matte surface; very popular for blouses and dresses 
• Fuji – medium weight, good drape, suede-like finish, very durable; good for dresses, suits, blouses, shirts           
• Duppioni – crisp drape, slightly pebbled texture, iridescent finish, dyes easily; used for suits, dresses, tops           
• Georgette – lightweight, sheer grainy texture, light drape; used for blouses, skirts, dresses            
• Interlock – knit, elastic, soft hand; for tops and underwear                   
• Noil or raw silk – medium to heavy weight, highly textured, matte finish, resists wrinkles; used for suits, tops, pants           
• Twill – medium to heavy weight, supple drape with diagonal lines, durable; used for dresses, slacks, tops, blazers