Lisbon, the capital of Portugal, is a bit of the usual beaten path. Yet it provides much in the way of charm and specular places to visit.
Legend has it that Lisbon
was founded by Odysseus. It was more likely built first by the
Phoenicians. Subsequently it was the
scene of battles between Phoenicians, Greeks, and Carthaginians. The Romans
took the city during the Second Punic War in 205 BC. Later, Julius Caesar
designated the city as the capital of the Roman Province of Further Spain.
After the fall of Rome,
the city was taken by the Visigoths, then in the eighth century by the Moors.
Four hundred years later, the city fell to the Christians and a hundred years
after that, it became the capital of the Kingdom
of Portugal.
Lisbon was the
place where the Great Age of Exploration began when, in the early 15th
Century, Prince Henry the Navigator determined to find an alternate route to
the East Indies around the horn of Africa.
Prince Henry set up a school with the best sailors, map makers, ship builders
and astronomers he could find. Prince Henry’s dream finally became reality when
Vasco da Gama rounded the horn of Africa and found the
sea route to India.
Portugal built
a commercial empire that spanned from the Indies, to West
Africa, to Brazil,
in South America. Unfortunately, King Philip 2nd
of Spain
conquered Portugal
and claimed it and its colonial empire for his own. Even though the Portuguese
threw off Spanish rule sixty years later, Portugal
never fully recovered.
The twentieth century saw the fall of the monarchy and the
imposition of an authoritarian government under António de Oliveira Salazar. An
army led rebellion led to the fall of the dictatorship and the eventual rise of
a democracy. After years of recovery, financed by European Union subsidies, Portugal
is now enjoying a period of prosperity and promise unseen since the 16th
Century. Lisbon has become a city
that it a graceful fusion of the old and the new.
Castelo de Sao Jorge
The Castle of St.
George is perched high upon one of Lisbon’s
seven hills. The site was occupied by the Romans, the Visigoths, and the Moors
before the Christian reconquest. The Castle was a royal residence until the
late 15th century and now consists of a complex of walls, gardens,
and towers, with an excellent view of the city and the Tagus
River beyond. It is a magical place
where geese and ducks wander the gardens. Also, visit Ogival House, with its 17th
Century door which connected to the jail that was once here.
Torre de Belem
This is a white, stone tower by the Tagus that was
built to defend that approach to the city in the early 16th Century.
It consists of a quadrangular tower reminiscent of the keeps of mediaeval
castles and a polygonal bastion, itself a fine example of the period's advanced
defensive technology, being designed to support heavy artillery, with
embrasures shaped rather like hatchways reaching almost to sea level. On the
wall of the small cloister built into the terrace of the bastion is an 18th
century statue of the Virgin and Child, Our Lady of Safe Homecoming, crowned by
a canopy. It was often the last sight that Portugal’s
sailors saw as they set forth in their ocean going caravels to explore the
world and bring back its abundance. A gangway leads to a small museum within
the tower. The view of the city, the river, and the surrounding countryside
from the top of the tower is splendid.
Mosteiro de Jeronimos
This 16th-century monastery is one of
the few surviving examples of medieval Manueline architecture (named after
Manuel I and featuring naval motifs). Those motifs, carved in stone, include
ropes, fishes, and conches. The south-facing façade, whose main feature
of interest is the portal, is surmounted by a tympanum of carved stone,
including low reliefs showing scenes from the life of St.
Jerome and the royal coat of arms. In the center is a
statue of Prince Henry the Navigator wielding a sword and, at the upper level,
a statue of Our Lady of Belém, covered by a finely carved canopy. The whole of
the portal has the figure of the Archangel Gabriel, Portugal's
guardian angel, at the very top. On the west portal are the statues of Manuel 1st,
St. Jerome, Queen Maria, and St.
John the Baptist. On the keystone of the arch, two
angels support the shield of Portugal.
In the lower section are magnificent representations of the four Evangelists, St.
Vincent, and the Holy Prince, Fernando, the brother of Prince
Henry the Navigator. The church itself contains the final resting places of
Vasco da Gama, the poet Luís de Camões, and many of the
Kings of Portugal descended from Manuel 1st.
Museu Calouste Gulbenkian
The museum contains a treasure trove of art. Half of the
collection consists of pieces from Egypt,
Greece, Roman,
the Orient, and the Islamic world. The other half consists of European art from
the Middle Ages to the modern era.
Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga
This is Portugal’s
national gallery. The collection consists of paintings and sculptures by
Portuguese and other artists dating back to the 12th Century.
Se (Cathedral)
This cathedral was built in the 12th
century by King Alfonso Henriques, Portugal’s first king, Lisbon’s cathedral is primarily Romanesque in style, although later
styles were incorporated when earthquake damage was repaired. The cloister
dates from the 13th century, while the Baroque sacristy houses the remains of
St Anthony, Lisbon’s patron saint, and other treasures. The cathedral also houses
a small museum.
Fragatta D Fernando Il e Gloria
This is a three masted sailing frigate tied up at the quay
east of the city center, representing Portugal’s
maritime past. It functions as a living history museum, shedding light on what
life was like on ships during the great Age of Exploration.
Museu
Nacional do Azulejo
This
is a specialized museum, totally devoted to the art of tiles. It has examples
of azuelos (arts made of glazed tiles) from the 15th Century to the
present.
Sintra
Sintra
is about seventeen and a half miles northwest of Lisbon and is well worth a day
trip from the city.
Palacio Nacional de Sintra
This former royal residence is a stunning mixture of Moorish
and Portuguese architecture and is set like a jewel in the midst of the old
town. A series of remarkable chimneys
connect to a kitchen complex that, if one didn’t know any better, would still
seem to be in use. The palace contains numerous furnished rooms open to the
public. The Torre da Meca has some houses for doves in the cornice, which is
decorated with nautical motifs. The Sala dos Brazões has a round ceiling of
this room which is decorated with veals that show the symbol of 74 Portuguese
families. The walls are covered by panels made with tiles dating from the 18th
century. The Sala das Pegas has ceiling panels decorated with magpies,
commissioned by King Joao 1st as a reprimand to some of the ladies
of the court who were overly fond of gossip. There is also a sumptuous garden,
surrounded by a wall.
Palacio da Pena
The Palacio da Pena was built in Gothic style high on a hill
and looking much like a fairytale castle. The palace is surrounded by a
beautiful park filled with a variety of trees and flowers brought from every
corner of the Portuguese empire by King Fernando in the 1840's.
Castelo das Mouros
The Moorish Castle was built in the 9th Century
as a defensive fortress. It was conquered by King Afonso Henriques in 1147 and
later restored by the consort King Fernando of Saxe Coburg-Gotha in 1860. The
view from the walls, which is a bit of a climb but worth it, is nothing short
of spectacular. Inside the castle there are ruins of a chapel and a Moorish
cistern.
Palácio Nacional de Mafra
North of Sintra, this palace-cum-monastery-cum-basilica was
created by King João V in the 18th century. The cost of building it was so
immense that it virtually destroyed the Portuguese economy. Amid the corridors
look out for the 18th-century pinball machines in the games room, and the
library, a magnificent barrel-vaulted baroque room, with 40,000 books dating
from the 15th century.
Visiting
Lisbon
Lisbon is accessible by plane,
automobile, and rail. Lisbon's
old fashioned trams are more than just a way to get from Point A to Point B -
they're an essential Lisbon
experience. Similarly, the city's three funiculars are an indispensable part of
its charm. There are also trains, a rapidly expanding underground system and
buses, which run into the night. Stick to public transport - the manic traffic
makes cars or bicycles a stressful option.