`Iolani Palace is a popular tourist attraction today, but it has had a long and interesting history since it was first built in 1881.
`Iolani Palace: The Only Royal Palace on American Soil
A remnant of the Hawaiian monarchy, `Iolani Palace stands out as a place of beauty and power, the sole official dwelling place of royalty in the United States. In its time `Iolani Palace has been much more than just the seat of royalty. After the fall of the monarchy in 1893 it became the center of the provisional Republican government, the seat of the territorial government and the seat of the state government of Hawai’i until 1969 when the Hawaiian capitol building was built. Once the state government had moved from the Palace, it was restored to its original state under the monarchy and has become a museum attracting visitors all over the world.
The Hawaiian Monarchy
The Hawaiian monarchy was born in 1795 when Kamehameha I, chief of the island of Hawai’i, united the islands under his authority. After a violent struggle he had united all the islands save one, Kaua’I, which would not be incorporated into the kingdom until 1810.
The island of Oahu played a central role in the monarchy. It served as Kamehameha’s base of operations for many years, although he would eventually return to his home island of Hawai’i. After Kamehameha’s death in 1819, it would become the center of Hawaiian government. The first palace of the monarchy was built on Oahu, originally named Hale Ali’i (House of the Chief). This was changed by King Kamehameha V, who renamed it `Iolani Palace in memory of his late brother. This palace was demolished in 1874.
The Building of the Palace
In 1874, David Kalakaua was crowned King of Hawai’i. He was a new monarch, concerned about the loss of the Hawaiian culture, and of Hawai’i's standing with the world. He began the revival of many aspects of Hawaiian culture, including the hula which had been banned decades earlier by Protestant missionaries from the United States. He took trips around the world, famously visiting places such as Great Britain and becoming friends with Queen Victoria, and was also the first Hawaiian monarch to visit the United States.
Kalakaua also sought to build a grand palace, worthy of a monarch. The cornerstone for the new `Iolani Palace was laid in 1879, and construction was finished in 1881. Not only was it a beautiful palace, befitting a king, but Kalakaua ensured that it was also a showcase of modernity. It included telephones, indoor plumbing, and electric lighting replaced gas throughout the palace in 1886, less than seven years after Edison invented the light bulb.
Queen Lili’uokalani and the Fall of the Monarchy
`Iolani Palace served as the official residence of King Kalakaua until his death in 1891. On January 29th, 1891 Hawai’i welcomed a new monarch, Kalakaua’s sister Lili’uokalani. Queen Lili’uokalani would be the last monarch of the Hawaiian Kingdom and the last to reside in `Iolani Palace.
The Kingdom had undergone major changes in 1876. Under pressure from American businessmen such as Sanford Dole of Dole Pineapple fame and their Hawaiian born children who sought more power in the government, King Kalakaua had signed the Constitution of 1876, making Hawai’i a Constitutional monarchy with a legislative body. This Constitution is known as the Bayonet Constitution in Hawai’i, as it was signed under threat of force.
Queen Lili’uokalani desired to restore the monarchy to its former glory and remove the influence of foreigners in Hawaiian government. In 1893 she formed a new Constitution which would restore full power of government to the monarch. Finding out about this, the same forces who had created the Bayonet Constitution forced Queen Lili’uokalani to give up her crown. In order to avoid violence she did so on January 17th, 1893, less than two years after she had first taken the throne. The Hawaiian Kingdom now became the Republic of Hawai’i.
`Iolani Palace was made the center of the new republican government. However, it would not end being the residence of royalty just yet. In 1895, after a royalist attempt to restore Lili’uokalani to the throne, Lili’uokalani was arrested as a traitor and conspirator and imprisoned in an upper chamber of the Palace. This would be Lili’uokalani’s home for five more years, no longer as Queen but as prisoner.
The Territory of Hawai’i
In 1898 Hawai’i underwent another major change. Since its inception, the Republic of Hawai’i had sought to become a territory of the United States, in order to improve business relations with the major buyer of their goods. After five years the United States finally agreed to annex Hawai’i, and it became an official US territory.
`Iolani Palace continued its role as center of Hawaiian government under territorial rule. During World War II, martial law was declared in the islands for three years and the palace became the headquarters of the military governor.
In 1956, Hawai’i made the transition from territory to state, the 50th state of the Union. `Iolani Palace remained, as it had since its founding in 1881, the center of Hawaiian government in its new role as US state.
Restoration of the Palace
Construction of the new Hawaiian capitol building was completed in 1969. Located right next to `Iolani Palace, it became the new house of the Hawaiian legislature. Government offices in the palace were vacated, allowing restoration of the palace to begin.
During its 75 years as the central government office of Hawaii, the Palace had deteriorated due to neglect. An organization known as the Friends of `Iolani Palace, founded by Mrs. Lili’uokalani Kawananakoa Morris, the grandniece of King Kalakaua’s wife Queen Kapi’olani oversaw the restoration and continues to oversee the operation of the palace to this day.
The goal of the restoration was to bring the Palace back to its former glory and to make it a showcase for the Hawaiian monarchy. It took nine years for the building to be restored to a truly usable quality following the original guidelines of the palace. Restoration also included the retrieval of artifacts from its time as a palace, which continues to this day.
Visiting `Iolani Palace Today
`Iolani Palace was opened to the public in 1978, once original restoration of the building was completed. Today it is one of the major attractions of tourists visiting Oahu. Located in downtown Honolulu next door to the capitol building, it is the focal point of the city as well as a central part of Hawaiian history.
The Palace is open for tours every Tuesday through Saturday from 9:00 AM to 2:00 PM. The tours start every half hour, and last about 90 minutes, taking you through the entire history of the palace, from its construction in 1881 to its continued restoration process to this day. On Fridays between noon and 1:00 PM there are also free concerts by the Royal Hawaiian Band.
In December of 2003, restoration was finished on one of the major artifacts of the monarchy period, a desk belonging to Queen Lili’uokalani and was put on display for the first time, showing how the restoration process continues to move forward.
`Iolani Palace is a place of great beauty and history. Any trip to Hawai’i should include a visit to its hallowed halls. It is an experience unlike any other, one of a kind not only in the United States but also in the entire world.