If you want a truly unique and relaxing vacation, head to the Outer Banks of North Carolina. The chain of islands nestled between the mainland Carolina coast and the Atlantic Ocean creates a rustic barrier strip that has always been rather off the beaten path given the logistics of getting from point to point in an area that must be bridged or ferried for travel.
Located between Norfolk, Virginia (90 miles) and Myrtle Beach, South Carolina (321 miles), the Outer Banks stretches about 70 miles from Bodie to the north down to Ocracoke Island to the far south and includes three key islands sprinkled with a range of small coastal towns, state parks, and light houses. An average land width of about one mile between the sounds and the ocean makes for a unique environment unlike any other in the world. Expect about a four hour drive if just cruising the shore or select a specific day destination or a full week of varied fun and take in all the sites and opportunities.
Getting to the Outer Banks
Visitors hit the Outer Banks by way of 168 or 158 out of Virginia or off Highway 64 in North Carolina with key entrance points off Point Harbor at Kitty Hawk and by way of Manteo. Most visitors enjoy visiting the Wright Brothers Museum in Kill Devil Hills and viewing the Lost Colony outdoor drama in the more developed entry areas before experiencing the more rustic outer barrier islands.
The Lost Colony
The Lost Colony is the oldest and longest outdoor running drama in the United States and features the story of one of the first settlements in the new world. Sir Walter Raleigh commissioned the New World project in 1584-1857 under the direction of John White. After returning to England for supplies, White returned in 1590 to discover that all members of the colony had disappeared. The mystery has never been solved and is one of just one of many fascinating stories of adventure revolving around the Outer Banks and the people of the area.
The play is fast-paced and a real treat and provides a good history overview for those not familiar with the background of the coastal region. Viewed by over 3 million since the opening in July 1937, the play is one of the highlights of the region.
Wright Brothers National Memorial and Visitor Center
From the beginning of time, man dreamed of flying, and Wilbur and Orville Wright accomplished that magnanimous feat on December 1903. The two brothers from Dayton, Ohio selected the North Carolina area with beautiful soft sand dunes and good wind patterns and launched the world into the aviation age.
Today, visitors can visit the park, tour the museum, view aeronautic displays and stand atop the spot where the first true airplane launched. There are a number of ranger programs available for more detailed and colorful information about the Wright brothers and flight in general. It’s impossible to visit this historic sight without catching flight fever even though taking to the air is taken for granted.
Bodie Island
The first island starting north and moving south is Bodie. Actually it’s not really an island anymore. As the landscape has changed, Bodie has shifted and connected to mainland NC at Nags Head, NC. The outer banks are everchanging, and Bodie is a good example of the way coastal areas grow, shrink, and take on new shapes.
Stop at the Vistitor’s Center at the Bodie (pronounced “body”) lighthouse. The Bodie Lighthouse has a visitors’ center and museum and lots of information to help kick off a trip to the area. This is the third lighthouse at Bodie and one of many scattered down the outer banks shoreline. The government wouldn’t put money into securing the first Bodie lighthouse, so it washed out during a storm. The second one was destroyed during the Civil War. The current lighthouse built in 1872 is slim with black and white stripes and is an appreciated part of the area and community.
Souvenir models of Bodie and other area light houses are very popular along the coast. All lighthouses are patterned differently and are easily identified by locals (and tourists taking the time to note the unique features). There are nine historic lighthouses located in North Carolina with five in the outer banks area. Small models, magnets, and other lighthouse decorated objects can be purchased all up and down the shore reasonably and are fun to collect. Also look for salt water taffy in a variety of flavors. It’s just not a trip to the Outer Banks without a box of the chewie treats that travel well to take back home for friends and family.
From the Bodie lighthouse area, you can take an easy trail—Bodie Island Dike Trail. This is a marshy area with lots of water birds. There is a fresh water pond created with a dam, which is the home to many ducks. The area is now designated as state park land, so it’s pristine without the typical tourist build up seen in many beach areas.
For outdoor adventures, loop back north to visit the most pristine portions of the Outer Banks. The roads up through Corolla and Duck were not even paved until the mid-1980s, so the region is quite off the beaten path (though growing quickly in popularity). Many of the rentals are private vacation homes. Shops are privately owned and feature unusual items carefully selected to appeal to those who like something different.
Hatteras Island
To get to Hatteras (the second island south) you drive highway 12 across the bridge from Bodie and head right. Hatteras is the biggest island and the most touristy though none of the islands on the park line are developed like most beach areas. Hatteras is the home of the nation’s tallest lighthouse (208 feet). The lighthouse was almost beaten away by the ocean, but it was moved back in 1999. Visitors can tour the lighthouse and enjoy a trip to the top for a remarkable view of the area.
Hatteras is the largest of the islands and makes up the biggest portion of the national park. Here you will find the bulk of Outer Bank visitors. Camping is popular and also fishing and boating.
Swimming is open on the sound side and ocean side. Water is calm and warmer on the sound side and is good for beginning swimmers. The ocean side has good surfing and wind-boarding. Equipment rentals are easy to find, so this is a good place to try out a new outdoor hobby.
Even though Cape Hatteras is faster paced than the rest of the area, it’s still a very different beach experience from commercial areas like Ocean City or Myrtle Beach. You’ll see natural beaches, marshes, and lots of water birds. It’s quieter and the pace is slower. If you enjoy nature, then this is the beach spot you’ll love without giving up many the tourist perks.
Ocracoke Island
Okracoke is the isolated and least visited of the outer banks islands, because visitors can’t just drive over. To get to Okracoke you take a ferry ride over from Hatteras or from the mainland at Swan Quarter or Cedar Island. Visitors can ferry over with cars or walk on and than travel the island by foot or bicycle.
To get a feel for the island and the history or this sleepy area, be sure to stop at the Visitor Center on the harbor. A self-paced walking tour can be arranged, or tune in on the radio to get background on the charmingly quaint island. Another option is to walk around in the dock area and simply talk to locals and visitors. Folks tend to be very friendly and will point out all the neat things to see and do on the small island.
There are lots of quaint privately owned little shops on the island of Ocracoke. Whether you enjoy looking at beach items and crafts or grabbing a snack, expect to find a unique selection ranging from campy to quite elegant.
When you get hungry, try The Back Porch, which is about a half mile north of town. It’s a small place with a screened in porch. The food is really good, and you can even buy a cookbook featuring the specialties.
About 5 miles outside the village off of Highway 12 you’ll see the Baker ponies. No one is sure how the ponies got to the island, but they have many interesting stories about that. The ponies ran free up until the 1950s when the area was closed in to protect the island from overgrazing and to protect the ponies from traffic. At one point the Boy Scouts cared for the ponies, but now the Park Rangers do that.
One of the most interesting stories on the island is about Black Beard the pirate. His head was cut off on this island and sent to Bath, NC. His treasure is supposed to be somewhere buried on Ocracoke, but no one has found it yet. If you want to kick off a conversation, just ask about the pirates of the area. Everyone seems to love talking about Black Beard and his escapades.
While pirates used Ocracoke as a hideaway, others ended up part of the history of the island unexpectedly. The islands of North Carolina have seen many ship wrecks from the ocean side. If you’re a history buff, then you’ll want to read up on the wrecks during the World War era when German U boats washed up on the shores. One story includes the sinking of the HMC Bedfordshire, a British Royal Navy ship. Four bodies drifted ashore from the wreck, and two have never been identified. Visit the British Cemetery marked by a Union Jack flag to see this sight of international interest.
Be sure to plan on spending most of a trip to Ocracoke on the beach. The rolling waves washing up on white sand are some of the most beautiful in the United States. Visitors can drive down the sand and find secluded areas to relax and get away from everything and everyone. If you like your own space, then you will have no trouble carving some out at Ocracoke.
Part of the charm of Ocracoke and the rest of the Outer Bank region is that it’s a different world. While television has tended to generalize the population, residents of Ocracoke have maintained a distinct look and feel. Even the language sounds different with an unusual shore sound where the word out, for example, sounds more like oat. Whether you’re wandering around the tiny downtown that looks just like the paintings of traditional coastal villages or sitting on a beach unspoiled by the sights and sounds of the modern age, you’ll feel refreshed and like you’ve really been on a vacation.