York, the unofficial capital of the North of England, has seen the march of history since Roman times. It therefore should be a must see place for any travelers to England.
York began as a
Roman camp when the 9th Legion arrived to suppress the Celtic
Brigante tribe. The camp eventually became a major town called Eboracum and was
the capital of Britannia Inferior. The Emperors Hadrian, Septimus Severus, and
Constantine all used it as their headquarters when campaigning in the north of Britain.
After the Roman withdraw of 410 AD, the Saxons invaded and
eventually took Eboracum, naming it Eoforwic. The city became the capital of
the independent Kingdom of Northumbria.
In 867, the city was taken by the invading Vikings, destroyed, and rebuilt as
Jorvik. Jorvik was the capital of the Danelaw, that area of England
that was ruled by the Danes until the King of Wessex, Alfred the Great, united England
under Saxon rule. York suffered under
William the Conqueror for it’s rebellion against Norman rule. During the Middle
Ages, York was known as the
“capital of the North” and was a center of religion. It suffered as a result
under King Henry VIII’s Dissolution of the Monasteries as it was a center of
clerical wealth. The Parliament forces took the city after the Battle of
Marston Moor during the English Civil War.
With the coming of the railroads in the 1830s, York
regained some of its former glory as an important rail hub. Today, with its
medieval streets and buildings, York
is a popular tourist destination.
Jorvik Viking
Center
The Jorvik Viking
Center is built on the site of
Viking Jorvik, recently discovered well preserved in wet mud. The museum
recreates life in the Viking town in a series of tableaux depicting markets,
street scenes, and other aspects of daily life, including a rather popular
latrine scene. One can actually experience the sights, sounds, and even smells
of Jorvik of about the 9th Century. There is also a recreation of
the archeological dig, including explanations of how scientists interpreted the
evidence they found.
Museum Gardens
These gardens hold a wealth of well worn medieval history.
Included are the ruins of St. Mary’s Abbey, in front of which mystery plays are
presented every four years. Nearby is St. Olave’s Church, dedicated to Norway’s
patron saint. One can wander past the abbey's Hospitium and Gatehall entrance,
the Victorian Gothic Gardens Lodge and a VIP accommodation lodge dating from
1470. Don’t miss the Yorkshire Museum
and its fine collection of Roman, Anglo-Saxon, Viking and medieval remains. The
highlight of the museum is the 15th Century Middleham
Jewel, Britain's
finest Gothic bauble, a remarkable gold pendant with a sapphire attatched.
National Railway
Museum
York’s railway
museum is the largest of its type in the world. It has a repository of
locomotives and other railroad materials dating back to 1829, the very
beginning of rail service in Great Britain.
The Great Hall displays interesting railway carriages ranging from a 1913
dining car to a Japanese bullet train. The impressive collection of carriages
includes Queen Victoria's saloon,
third-class rattlers, speedsters like the record-breaking Mallard and of
course a replica of Stephenson's Rocket. There're also quiet a few
uniforms, buttons, watches, clocks, tickets, maps, and posters.
Check out the Station Hall, a re-created period station,
complete with sound effects. It contains a variety of carriages and
wagons-dining cars and sleeping compartments as well as coaches into which
visitors can peer. A "Palaces on Wheels" Royal Trains exhibition
includes carriages dating from the 1840's to the 1940's. England's
kings and queens traveled with bedroom, dining room, and saloon carriages.
York Castle
Museum
This museum centers around two authentic representations of British
street life that make one think one has wondered
into one of those dramas produced by the BBC. The first is the Victorian
Kirkgate, where one can visit shops, a family at home, and a police station.
The second is Edwardian Half Moon Street, depicting life in York
of that era. The street is built inside an old debtors’ prison. Some of the
cells have display of Yorkish handicrafts and rural skills. Don’t miss the cell
where the notorious highwayman Dick Turpin spent his last night before his date
with the gallows.
The museum also houses the Jane Austin costume collection,
as well as exhibits on social history, the military, and collection of doll
houses. Just about all that remains of York
Castle itself is the lonely stone
tusk of Clifford's Tower, northwest of the museum. The former castle keep sits
atop the mound created for William the Conqueror's original wooden castle,
which burnt down in 1190 when 150 Jews sheltering within were forced to take
their own lives during an English style pogram.
York Minster
York Minster is the largest cathedral in Northern
Europe. The church was apparently built on the site of the
original Roman fortress. It has undergone several incarnations, including a
wooden church built in 627, a subsequent stone church, a church destroyed by
William the Conqueror, and a Norman Church dating from the 1060s. Today's structure
incorporates a variety of styles, including the Early English northern transept
(1241-60); the Decorated-style nave, choir and octagonal chapter house
(1260-1405); and, at the cathedral's heart, the perpendicular-style lantern
tower (1460-80). More recent amendments were made following the disastrous fire
of 1984, which severely damaged the south transept. A climb up the 275 steps to
the top of the lantern tower is rewarded with a magnificent view of York.
Barley Hall
The Barley Hall is a hands-on living history museum,
depicting life in the 15th Century. One is actually encouraged to
handle the objects or even sit on the furniture. One can follow the costumed guides or pick up
an audio tape self tour. During weekends in the summer there are special
events, such as mystery plays or medieval markets.
The Shambles
The Shambles is Europe’s best
preserved medieval street and entering it is like entering the 16th
Century in some respects. It is a maze of narrow, twisting lanes and alleys
lined with shops catering to visitors. Some of the upper floors project out
over the street, as if trying to touch one another.
One building of note in The Shambles is the home of Margaret
Clitherow. She was arrested in 1586 on the charge of harboring Catholic
priests. To make matters worse, she had regular Masses said in her house, and
hid clergy vestments there. The Elizabethan authorities condemned her to death
by pressing, which meant being crushed beneath a heavy weight. Margaret
Clitherow was canonized as a Catholic Saint in 1970, and her home is now a
shrine.
York Dungeon
Buried beneath the streets of York,
the York Dungeon is much like its counterpart in London
as it depicts nearly every horror inflicted on man by man in British history.
There are exhibits depicting torture and punishments including branding,
boiling, beheading, roasting and drowning. Note the displays of the torture to
death of Guy Fawkes and the hanging of Dick Turpin. There is also a depiction
of the Black Death in York and an
authentic medieval prison cell. Not for the more sensitive.
Treasurers House
This house was built in 1419 and housed the treasury of York
Minster for over a hundred years. It is now a museum with a fine collection of
medieval, 17th, and 18th Century furnishings. There is an
audio visual display recounting the history of the place. The cellar is said to
be haunted by the spirits of Roman legionaries.
Roman Bath
Museum
Discovered beneath a pub in 1930, the remains of the Roman
bath and the museum is accessible underground through the Roman Bath Pub. The
museum contains Roman artifacts and replicated articles of everyday life in
Roman Eboracum. There are fascinating - and often humorous - facts and figures
about Roman life in York scattered
about the museum on placards, and visitors can view armor, weapons, and Roman
tiles up close.
York City
Walls
York has the largest amount of intact city walls in Europe,
some of which date back from Roman times, and a walk along them will take one
to many parts of the city’s history. The most notable Roman artifact is the Multiangular
Tower, which stands in the Museum
Gardens. The tower was built during
the reign of Emperor Severus, who resided in York
from 209-211 AD. It has 10 sides, and stands almost 30 ft. high. The Vikings
rebuilt and repaired the walls and left behind an Anglo-Saxon tower near what
is now the public library. The majority of the wall dates from the 12th
to 14th Centuries.
The main gateways into the old city stand at Bootham Bar,
Monk Bar, Walmgate Bar and Micklegate Bar. The term "bar" refers to
the simple bars which were leveled across the gates to restrict traffic in and
out of the city. The bars also acted as toll booths during medieval times.
The rectangular gatehouse of Micklegate Bar marks the main
entrance to the city. It is also the traditional entry point for kings and
queen's visiting York. In a ceremony that dates back to Richard II in 1389,
monarchs touch the state sword when entering Micklegate Bar. The gatehouse is
four stories high, and contains living quarters on its upper floors. A simple
gatehouse was constructed here in the 12th century, but elaborate defenses were
added in the 14th, with a heavy portcullis and barbican. There is a small
museum inside Micklegate Bar, which traces the history of the Bar and the city
itself. Micklegate Bar was also the place where traitor's heads were displayed
to deter rebellion. Some famous (and infamous) heads which decorated the Bar
include Henry "Hotspur" Percy in 1403, Lord Scrope in 1415, Richard,
Duke of York in 1461, and the Earl of Northumberland in 1572. Heads were often
left atop the Bar for years as warning for the wages of treason.
Monk Bar is the most elaborate of the city gates, consisting
of a four-story gatehouse which dates from the early 14th century. The
gatehouse was designed to stand as a self-contained fortress, with each floor
capable of being defended individually. Monk Bar is also home to the Richard
III Museum,
where visitors can attend a modern "trial" of Shakespeare's villain
and decide for themselves if Richard was the prototypical evil uncle from the
play, or a maligned and courageous king.
Guildhall
The Guildhall was built during the 15th Century
as the meeting place for York’s
powerful merchants. The original Guildhall was destroyed by German bombing in
World War II and the current building is a replica, incorporating stone walls
of the original. Stained glass windows provide illumination and a depiction of
the history of the hall and the town. It was here that Margaret Clitherow was
tried for harboring Catholic priests in 1586 and sentenced to death by
crushing. Richard III was entertained here in 1483 with a lavish banquet.
Merchant Adventurers Hall
The Merchant Adventurers' Hall is one of the finest remaining examples of a
medieval guildhall still in existence in Britain.
The Hall was begun in 1357 and completed four years later. The building
consists of a great hall for meetings and business, a chapel, and a charity
hospital. The great hall remains virtually unchanged by the passage of time,
save for the additions of 18th Century sash windows and a 16th
century fireplace. The hospital cared for the destitute and poor of the town
until 1900. The furnishings of the chapel are not original; they date from
1661.
Visiting York
York is easily
accessible by bus or by rail, particularly from London.
The closest airports are at Leeds or Manchester.
York’s major attractions are within
walking distance of one another, though there is an excellent bus service for
the foot sore. The Spring or Fall months are the best times to visit.