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A History Lovers Guide to Hadrians Wall 
 
by Mark R. Whittington July 07, 2005

Hadrians Wall, stretching the length of Nothern England, once defined the frontier of the Roman Empire. It is now a living monument to a civilization that once stretched from the lowlands of Scotland to the Eurphrates River.

When the Roman Emperor Hadrian visited Britain in the early second century, he decided to establish the limits of Roman rule by building a seventy three and a half mile wall between Bowness, on the Solway in the east, to Wallsend on the Tyne in the west. The wall itself was six to ten feet thick and fifteen feet high. It was faced with a ditch with an earthwork to the south. There were twenty four large forts with large garrison and every Roman mile a smaller milefort with smaller garrisons and between the mileforts, signal outposts.

Two decades later, the Roman frontier was pushed north, but by 166 AD the frontier was fixed at Hadrian’s Wall. After the departure of the legions in the early fifth century, the wall was used as a source of building material by just about everyone in the north of England. It was not until the 19th Century when the historical significance of the wall was recognized and large stretches of it were preserved. Hadrian’s Wall is now a world historical site and hiking and picnicking along the wall is a popular pastime. There are also several sites of interest along the wall that can be visited, from west to east.

Tullie House Museum

The Tullie House Museum is located in the town of Carlisle. It is a complex of buildings centering around the 17th Century home of the Tullie family. Numerous artifacts and displays bring the history of the area to life. Subjects include the natural history of the area, the railroads, Jacobites, Border Reivers and, of course, the Roman city of Luguvalium (modern Carlisle) and Hadrian's Wall. There are finds from along the local stretch of the wall and its related forts, as well as Roman Carlisle, which quickly grew into a flourishing town due to the local military presence. Particularly notable are a good collection of fine Roman sculptures.

Birdoswald

Birdoswald is seven miles north east of Brampton. It is an interesting example of a Roman fort, with good stretches of the wall still in existence and a milecastle nearby. The gates and granaries have been excavated for visitors to view, including the re-erection of Dark Age posts to show how the buildings were later re-used after the departure of the legions. There is also a good little museum in part of the old farm and displays explaining the history of the site.

Roman Army Museum

The Roman Army Museum is three miles north west of Haltwhistle. It is housed in the 18th century farmhouse and associated buildings at Carvoran, a small settlement adjacent to the still buried Roman fort of Magna. It is more a museum of living reconstructions than excavated artifacts, there are excellent tableaux showing Roman arms and armor in great detail, along with explanatory videos and a model of the nearby fort. One can learn a great deal of every aspect of Roman military life in Northern Britain, including the different sub-divisions of a legion, the military ranks, soldiers' duties, their armor and weapons.

Vindolanda

Vindolanda is one mile north of Bardon Mill. It was a Roman fort world famous for the discovery of thousands of Roman writing tablets containing all sorts of correspondence, both official and private. Included are supply inventories, military orders, and financial accounts. Most famous was the private dinner invitation of Claudia Severa. There is a display of photographs of these amazing finds in the site museum. Other artifacts include an extraordinary collection of Roman leather goods, mostly shoes and sandels, a cavalry horse-mask, colorfully painted Roman glass, a leopard adorned map-pointer and a military standard. Outside are full-scale reconstructions of a Roman temple and houses where actors depicting the inhabitants tell their story in person. There are also two rebuilt sections of the wall and turrets, both in wood and stone. The foundations of the excavated fort itself and, unusually, the extra-mural civilian settlement is nicely displayed and well explained. There is a fine set of Roman baths. The garrison commander's house includes an early Christian church.

Housesteads – Vercovicium

Housesteads is six miles north east of Haltwhistle. This Roman fort is the longest standing tourist attraction along Hadrian’s Wall. Housesteads is the most complete example of a Roman fort in existence along the wall. Its walled perimeter is complete and there are latrines and a hospital to see as well as the usual headquarters building, commander's house, granaries & barrack blocks. Take a short walk to the west for spectacular views of Hadrian's Wall shooting like a roller-coaster over the local crags. There is an adjoining museum.

Carrawburgh – Brocolitia

Carrawburgh is two miles south of Simonburn. This fort is not available for visit, but one can walk up to the edge of the ruins to have a look. There is also a small Roman temple to the god Mithras. Mithras was originally a Persian deity but was adopted by Roman soldiers in the later Empire.

Chesters – Cilurnum

Chesters is four miles north west of Hexham. The fort and its artifacts were preserved by a local 19th Century land owner, John Clayton. There is a small museum with numerous sculptures and inscription, including Coventina's relief sculpture, the Mithras statues from Housesteads, the Carvoran corn measure. The fort itself is noted for string room of the headquarters which still retains its walls and vaulted ceiling. Outside, by the river, is the bath house, still in a remarkable state of preservation.

Flavinius Tombstone

The Flavinius Tombstone is in the south transept of Hexham Abbey in Hexham. The nine foot high monument to Flavinus, the Standard-Bearer of the Petrian Cavalry in the troop of one Candidus stands in front of a blocked doorway at the foot of the night stairs in Hexham Abbey. The memorial shows this cavalryman in plumed parade armor crushing a group of barbarians beneath him. Probably a Romanized Gaul, Flavinus had served in the army for seven years, yet died at the age of only twenty-five, sometime around 80 AD. St. Wilfred later brought the monument, as building stone, to Hexham. It was then reused as paving in the 12th century cloisters where it was eventually discovered in 1881.

Corbridge – Corstopitum

Corbridge is four miles east of Hexham. Just outside the settlement is the partly excavated remains of a large supply station for the military posted on Hadrian's Wall, just to the north. There are huge granaries with impressive porticoed loading bays. There are a large forum, streets, houses, temples and workshops. There is a good military headquarters with steps down into the strong-room. There is a good audio tour available to explain things too. The small museum is packed with interest. There are some excellent sculptures including that of a lion, from a large nearby mausoleum.

Museum of Antiquities

The Museum of Antiquities is at the University of Newcastle-upon-Tyne in Newcastle-upon-Tyne. The museum holds one of the largest collections of artifacts from the north of England in existence, stretching from Paleolithic times to the 19th Century. Included in the collection are the Rothbury and Alnmouth Saxon Crosses, the Birth of Mithras stone from Housesteads, featuring the earliest depiction of the signs of the zodiac found in Britain, the Aesica brooch, the Aemilia finger-ring and the enchanting South Shields Bear Cameo. There are not only models of Hadrian’s Wall and associated structures, but a fall scale recreation of a Mithras Temple.

Wallsend – Segedunum

Wallsend is four miles east north east of Newcastle-upon-Tyne. Besides seeing the newly excavated Roman fort on the ground, there is an observation tower to see the place from a birds eye view. There is a great interactive museum to help the visitor to understand how the Roman army lived and worked. The central area imitates the courtyard of the excavated headquarters building with the Imperial Chapel and treasure room at one end. The model of the fort in the center allows you to view each street exactly as it would have been and a computer screen takes one for a walk right down them Don't miss out on the full-scale working reconstruction of a Roman bath-house, based on the one at Chesters, over at the far side of the site though. It's quite incredible. Watch out in the Caldarium, which is quite hot. The bath is apparently planned for booked groups to actually use it properly in the future.

South Shields – Arbeia

South Shields is eight miles east of Newcastle-upon-Tyne. This Roman fort was not part of Hadrian’s Wall but was a supply base for it across the river Tyne from the wall’s eastern edge. It controlled the approach to the wall region. There is museum in the entry building with tombstones showing the fort's cosmopolitan population. A large area of the fort has been excavated and there are foundations of barrack blocks and the military headquarters available to view. The most spectacular part of the fort is the full-scale reconstruction of the fort's West Gate. The Gate was painstakingly rebuilt to fit the specifications suggested by the detailed evidence available and towers above the visitor to really show the magnificence of Roman military architecture, even in remote Britain. One can go inside and walk along the ramparts for a wonderful view of the fort and surrounding area.

Visiting Hadrian’s Wall

Hadrian’s Wall is accessible by car or bus. There are bus services that interconnect the major sites along the wall. When visiting the area, remember that it is a historical artifact. Don't walk on the Wall. It is easily damaged. Don't dislodge or remove any part of the Wall. Take your litter home. Respect the local farmers' land and property. Keep your dog on a lead - especially if livestock is present.


 




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