The Allure of Granada

Terra-cotta tile roofs. Flamenco dancers in bright, flashy attire. Row upon row of small white houses contrasted by a huge palace on a hill. This is not a fantasy scene from a Shakespearean romance, but a real place, located in the sunny country of Spain. Since the era of the Renaissance, Granada has been a hotbed of mystery, timeless beauty, alluring stories, and hidden crevices.

Set against the amazing backdrop of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, Granada is ancient and filled with historical drama. From Roman and Celtic times, settlements of both contrasting cultures stood at the site of Granada, but soon sank into the earth as centuries passed. As time progressed to the Middle Ages, warriors and travelers of Arabic stock made a lasting impression on the history of Granada. They were known as Moors, possibly derived from the Latin word "mauritius" meaning dark-skinned. These Moors were Muslim, and set up a huge Islamic kingdom in the heart of Andalusian Spain. For hundreds of years the Arabic culture flourished in Granada, and in the 13th century, the impressive Alhambra palace was completed. Throughout this residence truly fit for a sultan, the vestiges of Moorish culture may still be seen today.

After King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella came into power, a decree was sent out that no Moors should be left in Spain, and those would not leave were forced at sword point to convert to Christianity. As Spain once again became a Catholic country, the Moors were forgotten, but their contributions to Granada are visible in every nook and crevice of this ancient city. For many, Granada sums up the aura of Spain, and once you walk among the sunny medieval streets and fortresses, you will easily see why.

A Tourist Mecca

The traveler to Granada will find it is a place of great beauty and astounding size. It could be argued that the most dangerous thing to lose in Granada would be your camera. Although this is said tongue-in-cheek, many would agree that all other things but the memories of beautiful Granada could easily be replaced. Just arrived? Start your journey at the airport. Make sure cameras, cash, suntan lotion and protective clothing are utilized. You know there is a myriad of things to see and do, but have no idea where to begin. A guidebook is always helpful, but if you don't have access to one, or especially if you have a very short amount of time in this sprawling city, there are some top-notch, unforgettable attractions that you definitely won't want to miss.

The Main Draws

• Alhambra Palace. This is the number one attraction that lures international visitors to Granada. Since it is such a popular site, you may wish to wait at the entrance for opening time. First visitors of the day have the opportunity to meander the grounds before other guests arrive, and needn't feel rushed to complete the tour before having seen everything. The Alhambra's history began in the 9th century, but it was reconstructed by Muhammed al-Ahmar in the 13th century during the Nazrid Moorish dynasty. The name itself is thought to mean "red castle" for reasons that are not entirely certain. Over time the lavish courtyards and shady retreats such as the Court of Lions were created, giving rise to an atmosphere reminiscent of Baghdad's bazaars. These courtyards can still be seen by the fortunate traveler to Granada.
• Generalife gardens. This expression of Arabic beauty is one of the most sought-after things to see during a visit to Granada. The sultans themselves entertained here. Around every corner, fountains and waterworks bring an air of wonder. If you're intending to travel in the summer, you may consider seeing Granada in July if the Music and Dance Festival is of interest to you. Activities commence right here in the Generalife's auditorium.
• Albaicin. A narrow residential district with a medieval flair, Albaicin stretches out beneath the Alhambra palace. This part of the city was once the home to the Moorish citizens. Religious buildings color the district and attest to the conflicting faiths that ruled Granada in various eras. Christian churches include San Salvador, San Juan de los Reyes and San Nicolas. A building known as the Great Mosque of Granada is still standing here as well. Albaicin is the very flavor of medieval Spain. While you walk hilly streets, admiring houses that have stood for centuries, look up at the crag above you. The Alhambra palace lords over Albaicin as it has since the 1200s.

The well-known attractions are a great first stop on your tour but the tour has only just begun. There are some lesser-known activities that will give you great film footage and some mental pictures you won't soon forget. Some of these attractions are heavily visited, and others have few tourists, but all are great places to while away the hours. Make sure to stop and grab a bite to eat - perhaps an empanada or something from a famous Spanish tapas bar - before journeying down narrow streets in Granada's sun.

• Sacromonte Hill. This clutter of caves is not only a must for curious children, but a great learning experience. Find out about the history of gypsies who once made their homes here. Looking up at the hill, all that can be seen is tiny holes. Gypsy families actually lived and worked here, inside the caves hewn from Sacromonte Hill. Many rooms have been reconstructed to show how Spain's wanderers would have lived. At times, special gypsy dances take place inside these cramped spaces.
• Monastery of La Cartuja. This breathtaking Mediterranean-style monastery dates from the 16th century. Its very appearance is typical of Spain with tile roofs and round, turreted towers. Parts of the monastery are baroque and quite elegant, and the interior is strikingly beautiful. Make sure to bring plenty of film. This is a not-to-miss experience.
• Arab baths. The banuelo, or Arab bath, is a unique approach to a study of Moorish history. Still existing from the early medieval days, this is a great place to stop by and see how robed Moorish aristocrats once spent their free hours. The inner chambers are very well preserved, and a few columns still stand that boast a lofty history; they were originally remains from Roman and Germanic structures, used in the construction of the Moorish baths. Some of these columns were also taken from Cordoba and used for the enjoyment of Granada's Moorish citizens.
• Granada Cathedral and Capilla Real. Granada's cathedral sprang from the Renaissance era, and was begun in the 16th century by Diego de Siloe. The baroque additions furthered its outer beauty in 1667. Nestled beside this impressive Gothic structure lies the Capilla Real, Royal Chapel. It is here that Ferdinand and Isabella desired their burial to be, to commemorate the place of the Christian conquest over the Muslim city. There are few words to describe the beauty of the cathedral's interior, and the tourist will never cease to find things to delight the eye.
• Casa de Castril. This Renaissance home was commissioned by Spaniard Diego de Siloe and has a striking facade. Easily recognizable by its ornately etched entranceway, the Castril house is now one of Granada's time capsules, housing an archaeology museum and hosting other valuable pieces. Originally this home belonged to Hernando de Zafra, who had the prestigious position of royal secretary. It is worth the time just to explore the Moorish patio and marvel at the beautiful architecture that makes it a priceless treasure.
• Dar al-Horra. Another Moorish palace, this lovely home belonged to the mother of Granada's last Arabic king. Like the Alhambra, courtyards and waterways color the grounds outside the palace. The interior is strewn with bright friezes and unique artwork.
• Plaza Nueva. Resting side by side with Renaissance-style fountains and medieval churches, this section of town can also be considered a tourist mecca. This is not the part of town for a first-time visitor to ignore and is a great place to stop for a bite, to find one of the infamous Spanish tapas bars, or just to sit and soak in Spain's sun. This is only one such place in Granada where the grandeur of the past meets the urban sprawl of the present.

Granada has been impressed in the minds of many wishful travelers since the beginning of tourism, and many who reach these golden streets agree that the image is forever branded in their hearts. Granada's combination of Moorish elegance and Renaissance architecture makes it a unique and fascinating port of call. The famous Spanish quip is so completely true, discussing the beauty of Granada in the words of Francisco de Icaza: "There is nothing sadder in the world than to be blind in Granada."

External Links:

• The City of Granada - Visitor info on Granada and the Andalusian region
• Granada Basic Information - What the first-time traveler needs to know
• Granada Traveller Guide - The place to find info on all major attractions