With the fall of the Soviet Empire, many of the capitals of Eastern Europe are now far more open to the traveler in search of unseen treasures. Prague is one of the best of these destinations.
The Prague Valley
has been inhabited since at least 6000 BC, according to archeological evidence.
Germanic and Celtic tribes established permanent farming communities by around
4000 BC. Slavic people arrived around the turn of the millennium, and by the 600
AD had settled opposite sides of a particularly appealing stretch of the Vltava
River. They successfully defended
the land now known as Bohemia for
generations. By the 9th century it had been conquered by the Great Moravian
Empire. The short-lived empire introduced the locals to Christianity, but it
was 'Good King Wenceslas' of Christmas-carol fame, who was actually a Duke, who
made it the state religion of Bohemia
in the 930s. He remains the patron saint of the Czech
Republic. It was under the rule of
Charles IV who ruled from 1346 to 1378 that Prague
truly came into its own, becoming one of the continent's largest and most
prosperous cities, acquiring its fine Gothic face and landmark buildings like Charles
University, Charles
Bridge and St Vitus Cathedral.
Jan Hus, who attended Charles
University in the late 1380s,
rallied popular support for the Church-reform movement. When he was burned at
the stake in 1415, the people were roused enough to hurl various Catholic
officials from the upper stories of Prague's New Town Hall, introducing the
word 'defenestration', meaning literally, to toss someone out a window, into
the popular political lexicon. While the 1526 ascent of the Catholic Hapsburg
family to power in the region cooled things off for a few decades, a second
round of defenestrations in 1618 made it clear that the matter was not quite
settled.
In fact, these defenestrations were once of the starts of
the Thirty Years War. The war devastated Central Europe
and killed a quarter of Bohemia.
Dreams of Czech independence were squelched for centuries, despite various
revolts and agitations. Finally, in the wake of World War I, a new nation
called Czechoslovakia
was created out of the ashes of the Austrian-Hungarian Empire. The new nation
suffered under first Nazi and then communist rule. A reformist government was
crushed by a Soviet led invasion in 1968. Finally, Czechoslovakia
was liberated, along with the rest of Eastern Europe,
after the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989. The Czech
Republic and Slovakia
had an amicable divorce in 1993. Despite disastrous floods in 2002, Prague,
like many of the capitals of the former Warsaw Pact, is enjoying a revival as
it rejoins European civilization.
Hradčany
Hradčany was its own town in the 14th Century. It became part of Prague
in 1598 and is today an outdoor museum of antiquities. At the center is a
column by Ferdinand Brokoff raised in 1728 to commemorate Prague's
struggle against the plague. Scwartzenburg
Palace and other examples of
baroque and rococo style residences make the area an architecture lover's
dream. West lays Loretánskí Náměstí, a square created in the 18th century when Cernin
Palace was built. The square's main
attraction is the Loreta, an extraordinary baroque place of pilgrimage designed
in 1626 to resemble the house of the Virgin Mary. It's surrounded by several
lovely chapels and a treasury, featuring the Prague
Sun, made of solid silver and plenty of gold and inlaid with 6222 diamonds.
Another must see place is Strahov Monastery, started in 1140 and completed in
the 18th century, which features a baroque church where Mozart is said to have
played, and the Strahov Library, with its unreal collection of tomes and
education-themed frescos. It was a functioning monastery until the communist
government closed the doors, imprisoning most of the monks. With the fall of
Communism, the monks have been trickling back in over the past few years.
Josefov
Josefov is what remains of Prague’s
once thriving Jewish ghetto. There are a half-dozen old synagogues, a
ceremonial hall and the Old Jewish Cemetery. The Old-New Synagogue, dating from
1270, is Europe's oldest working synagogue. One steps
down into it because it predates the raising of the streets against floods. The
Pinkas Synagogue, built in 1535, is inscribed with the names, birth dates and
dates of disappearance of 77,297 Bohemian and Moravian Holocaust victims. The
1868 Spanish Synagogue, named for its striking Moorish interior, offers an
exhibit on Jews in the Czech Republic
from emancipation to the present day.
Malá Strana
Malá Strana, or the Small Quarter, lays at the foot of Prague
Castle. It started up in the 8th or
9th centuries as a market settlement, and was chartered in 1257 by Premysl
Otakar II. Charming churches and palaces in the area date from the 17th and
18th centuries, with Renaissance facades that were later altered to a more
baroque style.
Nerudova Ulice contains the House of Two Suns, where poet Jan Neruda penned Tales
of the Little Quarter, and Bretfield
Palace. But dominating the quarter
is St Nicholas Church, not to be confused with the eponymous chapel on Old
Town Square. This building, with its huge green
cupola, houses the largest fresco in Europe, Johann
Kracker's 1770 Life of St Nicholas. Also fine for strolling are the
grounds of Wallestein Palace,
where summer concerts are often held, and quiet Vojan
Park, established in 1248.
Old Town Square
Old Town Square
has been Prague's working heart
since the 10th century, and hosted its largest market until the beginning of
the 20th century. It's surrounded by a maze of alleys and is home to some of Prague's
most famous monuments. Landislav Saloun's brooding sculpture of Jan Hus
dominates the square. It was erected on July
6th, 1915, 500 years after the religious reformer was burned at the
stake.
Prague Castle
Prague Castle
is the center piece of the city because, perched upon the top of a cliff, it is
said to be the largest ancient castle in the world. It started as a small,
enclosed fortress a thousand or so years ago built by Prince Bořivoj and grew
from there. The castle has been the seat of Czech government since that time,
though President Václav Havel chose to live in his smaller home on the
outskirts of the city. Some parts of the castle, like the Spanish Hall and Rudolf
Gallery, are only open one Saturday
a year, usually in early May. The rest of the castle's collection of
architectural and artistic marvels, created over the course of the last
millennium, is on exhibit the year round.
Visiting Prague
The Czech Republic’s
sole international airport is about six miles from the city and is serviced by
many carriers. Prague is also
serviced by a very efficient rail and bus service connecting the city to other
major cities in Europe. As with many European cities,
driving in Prague is problematic.
However many sites in the city center are within walking distance. Prague
also has a very good transit system.