Rototillers:

The typical garden tiller comes in two varieties, those that have the digging tines in front of the wheels and those that have tines behind the wheels. Those that have the tines in front are usually driven by a rubber belt, or v-belt, running between the engine on top and the transmission on the bottom. There may be more than one belt - one for forward and one for reverse - and it is very important that they go back on the exact same way they came off. The belt is normally covered with protective metal cover.

The tillers with the tines behind the wheels normally have the transmission driven by gears rather than by a v-belt. This transmission is fully enclosed.

With the spark plug wire disconnected and grounded, remove the cover over the v-belt, if the tiller is a front tine machine. Once the cover is off, carefully inspect the v-belt for cracks, fraying and wear. You do not need to take the belt(s) off in order to inspect them. If a belt is badly cracked and/or frayed, it should be replaced. Check the owner’s manual that came with tiller to determine how to remove and replace the belt. Different manufacturers use different methods for this. If you do not have a manual, the machines usually have a tensioning mechanism that must be loosened in order to remove the belt. Take the old belt to your favorite hardware, or parts supplier, to make sure you get the correct replacement.

Once replaced, set the tension on the v-belt with the same mechanism. The belt should slip when the machine is in neutral and be pulled taught when the tines are engaged. If you install a new v-belt, you will likely have to readjust the tension a little as the belt wears in and stretches.

Now to the transmission. Some require grease and some require oil. If there is a grease nipple on the transmission, give it a shot of all-purpose lithium grease in the spring and then another about every twenty-five hours of operating time, or when you change the motor oil. If there is no grease nipple, look for an oil plug. Usually it has a square shaped head and is located on the side, near the top of the transmission. If a little oil comes out when you remove the plug, put it back in - the oil level is good. If no oil comes out, add some gear oil (not motor oil unless the manufacturer recommends that in the manual) until a little oil runs out of the hole, then put the plug back in. Finally, check for any oil or grease leaks around where the tine shafts come out of the transmission. If it is leaking, the machine will need to go to a mechanic to have the seals replaced. Removing weeds, and anything else that gets tangled in there during use, helps to prolong the life of the seals greatly. You should clean this area of machine after every use. Transmission damage will occur if there is a loss of lubrication, and the transmission is often the most expensive part of the tiller.

See my previous article entitled “Routine Lawnmower Maintenance Saves Money” for details on how to service the engine on your tiller. The steps pertaining to the lawnmower engine also apply to the tiller engine.

Snow Blowers:

The basic difference between a snow blower and a garden tiller is that the blower uses an auger and impeller instead of tines. The auger gathers the snow to the center of the machine and the impeller draws it in and shoots it out. The snow blower, therefore, is actually a snow thrower. We are talking about walk-behind snow blowers in this article.

To service the engine itself see my previous article entitled “Routine Lawnmower Maintenance Saves Money”. The steps pertaining to the lawnmower engine also apply to snow blower engines. A notable difference is the type of motor oil used in snow blowers. Since these machines need to be easy to start at cold temperatures, use a 10W-30 or 5W-30 regular motor oil. A 0W-30 synthetic oil can also be used. Check your manual for what the manufacturer recommends.

Snow blowers often have shear bolts in their auger drive systems to prevent the drive gears from breaking should the auger jam. Do not replace such bolts with any other type of bolt.

Before servicing the snow blower, disconnect the spark plug wire and ground it to the engine. Like the rototiller, the snow blower may be equipped with v-belts that drive the transmission. Follow the same procedure mentioned under the rototiller section to service these drive belts. Remember that the clutch that puts tension on the belt will not work as well wet as it does dry, so may need a little more tension. If the snow blower has a brake that stops the auger, it also will not work as well when wet, so adjust it accordingly too.

Remember that snow blowers operate in a wet environment, and so all bare metal surfaces need protection to prevent rusting. Use silicone grease on exposed gears and a silicone spray lube on chains and other moving parts. Also lubricate and adjust any control rods that are on the machine. The rods will gradually wear out of adjustment over time.

Many snow blowers use a 120-volt electric starter. Make sure your extension cord is rated for outdoor use, is not cracked, and there are no exposed wires. For starting, plug the cord into the snow blower and then into the receptacle to ensure proper grounding. Store the cord in a dry location when not in use.

Like the rototiller, the transmission on the snow blower is a very expensive component. Keep the transmission topped up with the appropriate oil, recommended by the manufacturer, and check for any leaks where the shafts come out. If there are leaks, the machine will have to be taken to a mechanic to have the seals replaced.

Storing your rototiller and snow blower:

Again, I would refer you to my previous article lawnmower maintenance for information on how to prepare the engine for off -season storage. Give both machines a good cleaning; remove any weeds that have tangled around the tines of the rototiller in particular. Also, make sure that the transmission on your snow blower or rototiller is full of oil and there are no leaks. If it takes grease, give it a couple of shots with a grease gun before putting it away. Then, use a silicone grease or spray on all exposed bare metal to prevent rusting. Put some silicone grease on any expose bolts and nuts to keep them from rusting too.

Note: The author assumes no responsibility for any damage or injury caused by following the preceding. The reader follows these suggestions at their own risk.