Antwerp is one of Europe's most under rated tourist destinations. Few places merge the old and the new quite so enchantingly. Eclectic Art Nouveau mansions face Neo-Renaissance villas, and medieval castles provide a magical backdrop for the city's myriad bars and cafes.
While the area around Antwerp
has been inhabited since Neolithic times, the place entered history with the
arrival of Julius Caesar and his legions in 57 BC. When Rome
fell some four hundred years later, the area was overrun by Frankish
barbarians. The Holy Roman Emperor Charlemagne established a fort at the site
of the future city in about the year 800 AD, while Christian missionaries
arrived to convert the local people.
Unlike other cities in what became the Duchy of Flanders in
1093, Antwerp didn’t really get
started as a going concern until the establishment of guildhalls in the early
16th Century. As with older, richer cities like Burges and Ghent,
Antwerp started making money hand
over fist with the production and export of cloth. It soon superceded those
towns when it was favored by the Hapsburg Emperor, Charles V, and became a
major northern European port.
After 1566, Antwerp
suffered during the revolt against Spanish Hapsburg rule. Its protestant
population, decimated by massacres by Spanish troops, was forced to immigrate
north to Holland. Antwerp
began a decline soon after with Amsterdam
superseding it as the main port of the Low Countries. It
passed from Spanish to Austrian to French to Dutch rule throughout the ensuing
centuries until becoming the main port of an independent Belgium
in 1831. Subsequently, Antwerp
grew, especially with the establishment of rail lines with the Belgium
capital of Brussels.
Grote Markt
This market square, reserved for pedestrians and bordered by some marvelous
Renaissance-style buildings, is the social heart of Antwerp.
Two sides of the square are dominated by the facades of some mostly
19th-century towering guildhalls. The house number 7, for instance, is one of
the most beautiful. It was the house of the guild of Archers and is crowned by
the statue of St. George. In the middle of the square stands the Brabo
fountain, with a statue of a legendary Roman soldier Silvius Brabo. The statue
was made by sculptor Jef Lambeaux in
1887. According to a legend, a terrible giant, called Druoon Antigoon, lived on the banks of
the river Scheldt in ancient times. Whenever sailors on
the Scheldt River
refused to pay toll to the giant, he punished them by cutting off their hand. Brabo managed to kill the giant. Brabo
cut off the hand of the giant and threw the hand away in the river.
Koninklijk Museum
voor Schone Kunsten
The Koninklijk Museum
voor Schone Kunsten or Royal Museum of Fine Arts has an awesome collection of
paintings, dating from the 14th century right up to contemporary times. The
collection includes masterworks from the 15th-century Flemish likes of Jan Van
Eyck and Rogier Van der Weyden, from 17th-century exponents of baroque like
Rubens and Antoon Van Dyck, and from more recent creative types like James
Ensor, Constant Permeke and surrealist René Magritte. The collection numbers
more than 7,200 works of art, consisting of 3,200 painting, 3,600 drawings and
prints, and 400 sculptures.
The earliest nucleus of the museum has its origin with the
Antwerp Guild of St Luke to which the city's artists belonged between 1382 and
1773. In 1663 an academy was founded under the guild's auspices. In 1773, the Academy
of Fine Arts took possession of the
guild's gallery. The rather limited composition of the Academy's museum started
to grow in the 19th century through generous donations. The gallery passed into
the ownership of the state in 1927.
Museum Plantin-Moretus
The Museum Plantin-Moretus details the printing dynasty
founded by Christoffel Plantin in 1548. One of the prime exhibits is a rare,
painstakingly assembled Gutenberg Bible. Christophe Plantin, considered the greatest of the early printers after
Gutenburg, established himself in 1548 in Antwerp, organized his printing atelier and library
in this house in 1576. He printed 1860 books in “all the languages of the
Christian world” and the prestige of the house became so great that king
Philippe II of Spain promoted him to his official printer. Moretus, his son in law, continued
his work, still imitated by his successors until1876. The interior has been
very well remade as in the time of Plantin. The house includes sumptuous
apartments, hand presses, cases full of lead characters, printing material, a fabulous
private library and print cabinet.
Nationaal Scheepvaartmuseum
Nationaal Scheepvaartmuseum or National
Maritime Museum
is on the foreshore of the River Scheldt to the immediate west of the old city
center. It lays within the partly-restored confines of a castle called the
Steen that dates from 1200 and is Antwerp's
oldest building. The museum contains a collection of charts, models, paintings,
and actual representations of canal boats, fishing boats, and other sailing
craft that have shaped Belgium
history.
Onze Lieve Vrouwkathedraal
The Onze Lieve Vrouwkathedraal or the Cathedral of Our Lady
is the biggest and best Gothic church in Belgium
and one of the highpoints of Antwerp
with its 493 foot spire. It took nearly 170 years to bring this landmark
construction project to completion in 1521.t has subsequently been graced by
four canvases daubed by the baroque master Rubens. Those include The Raising
of the Cross (1610), Resurrection (1612) and Assumption
(1625)m all excellent examples of this artist's early work. But the best-known painting is the enigmatic
triptych The Descent from the Cross (1612).
Openluchtmuseum voor Beeldhouwkunst Middelheim
The
Openluchtmuseum voor Beeldhouwkunst Middelheim is an open air sculpture garden
containing three hundred sculptures decorously scattered throughout the large
park. They include works by such artists as Rik Wouters and Auguste Rodin.
Rubenshuis
This is the former home and studio of the famed Belgian
artist, Peter Paul Rubens. He built this baroque mansion in 1611 and lived in
it until his death in 1640 at the age of 63. There have been some judicious
restorations to the artist's living quarters, the studio where he produced many
acclaimed artworks, and to the formal garden in the mansion's grounds. The
collection of paintings by Rubens himself and by some of his contemporaries
alone already makes it worth the entrance fee. During a visit one can stroll
through the reconstructed garden, visit the work shop of Rubens and his private
quarters.
St Jacobskerk
Antwerp's wealthy built this
church as their private place of worship. There are 23 burial chapels and
assorted other rooms constructed from over 100 types of marble and decorated
with the work of famous artists of the time. Rubens himself is buried here
alongside his family, in a small chapel adorned with a whimsical family portrait
entitled Our Lady Surrounded by Saints. In a way the church is a defiance to both the principles that all are
equal to God and that you can’t take it with you.
Visiting Antwerp
Antwerp’s small
airport handles only a few international flights, mainly from London.
The city is, however, readily accessible by bus and train. To improve the
probability of decent weather, visit Antwerp
between May and September.