Great Smoky Mountains National Park consists of ridges of endless forest that stretch across the border of North Carolina and Tennessee. It is one of the largest protected areas in America and is well known for its diversity of flora and fauna, as well as the beauty of the rugged Smokies. Here, visitors will find remnants of Appalachian culture as well as a sanctuary for animal life. Each year over nine million people visit the park that was once home to the Cherokee. The park covers over 800 square miles within the Southern Appalachian Mountains. Over 10,000 species of flora and fauna have been recorded and it’s believed there may be as many as 90,000 more within the park’s boundaries. Mountain elevations within the park range from 875 to 6,643 feet.

Ancient Mountains

It is believed that the Great Smoky Mountains were formed 200 to 300 million years ago. Their unique northeast to southwest orientation allowed animals to migrate along their slopes during the last ice age ten thousand years ago. At that time glaciers transformed much of North America and though the Smokies were affected, the glaciers didn’t invade them. This made the mountains a perfect refuge for thousands of species of flora and fauna that were disrupted in the north.

Species

Over one hundred species of trees are native to the park. This is more than any other park in North America. Ninety-five percent of the park is covered in forests. Of this twenty-five percent is old growth. This gives Great Smoky Mountains the largest area of deciduous old growth forest in North America.

Four thousand species of non-flowering plants have been discovered in the park, as well as fourteen hundred flowering plant species. Fauna consists of over two hundred bird species, sixty-six mammal species, thirty-nine reptile species, fifty native fish species and forty-three amphibian species. Besides these, lungless salamanders, mollusks, millipedes and mushrooms flourish.

The park’s unique and diverse natural resources encouraged the United Nations to designate Great Smoky Mountains National Park an International Biosphere Reserve.

Accessing the Park

If you have either a permanent or temporary disability, or if someone in your party needs disability access, you must obtain a temporary parking permit. This allows you to take advantage of designated accessible parking.

Many of the trails within the park are steep and rugged. However, there is an accessible trail available on Newfound Gap Road.

If you are a permanently disabled US citizen, a Golden Access Passport is available free of charge at either Sugarlands or Oconaluftee visitor center.

Bicycling

Some roads within the park are not recommended for cycling because of narrow roads, heavy traffic and steep, rugged terrain. One exception is Cades Cove, which offers an excellent bicycling experience. Cyclists can enjoy wildlife viewing and tour a variety of century home sites. Bicycles can be rented at the Cades Cove store if visitors don’t have their own. Other cycling areas include Greenbrier and Trentmont Roads in Tennessee and in North Carolina, Cataloochee Valley.

Hiking

There are more than eight hundred fifty miles of trails within the park to be enjoyed by hikers, ranging from easy to difficult. Along the park’s top ridge, hikers can enjoy hiking the Appalachian Trail, which runs for seventy miles. Pets are not allowed on most trails; the Gatlinburg Trail and the Oconaluftee Trail are exceptions.

If you decide to venture into the backcountry of Great Smoky Mountains, there are a few rules that need to be followed to ensure your safety.

• Never hike alone

• Tell someone where you are going and when you plan to return.

• Take a large supply of bottle water; at least two quarts for each person per day.

• Take along a trail map.

• Take two flashlights each to ensure you have a working one at all times.

• Wear hiking boots or shoes that give plenty of support and which are comfortable.

• Include water treatment pills in your gear. Treat all water taken from natural bodies of water within the park.

• Always carry a first aid kit.

• Check the weather report before setting out.

Camping

Great Smoky Mountains National Park offers front and backcountry camping, as well as a small number of group camping sites.

Front Country

There are ten front country campsites within the park. Each is equipped with flush toilet washrooms and cold running water. There is no electrical or water hookup facilities at the park. Every campsite has a picnic table and a fire grate. The area is home to bears and other creatures. Keep all food stuffs and equipment stored in a vehicle when not in use. Do not feed wildlife.

Back Country

All park visitors camping in the park’s back country must obtain a fee back country permit. These are available at all ranger stations and visitor centers. Overnight campers are obligated to stay in a designated shelter or campsite, which requires reservations.

Before setting off into the back country, check the weather predictions and be sure someone knows your route and when you plan to return.

Fishing

Smoky Mountains protects wild trout habitat. There are approximately 2,115 miles of streams within the park, which provide a wide range of angling experiences. Wet your line in a remote headwater trout stream or a smallmouth bass stream. Both of these species can be fished year ‘round.

Though fishing is allowed in most streams, there are a few that are posted as “no fishing” areas to protect fish that are endangered. Visit a ranger station or visitor center to get a complete list of fishing rules and regulations.

In order to fish within the park’s boundaries you must have possession of a North Carolina or Tennessee fishing license or permit. These are not available at the park, but may be purchased in nearby cities and towns; if you plan to fish in Cherokee or Gatlinburg, a special permit is needed.

Horseback Riding

Horses can be rented from four stables located within the park from March until November. Fees average $20.00 per hour. There are approximately five hundred fifty miles of trails open to horses and these are designated. If you wish to ride your own horse, be sure to pick up a trail map, which shows the trails open to horses and states rules and regulations for back country riding. Maps cost $1.00 and are available at all visitor centers.

There are five drive-in horse camps that provide access to back country horse trails. Reservations must be made. Fees are $20.00 and have to be paid when the reservation is made. Campsites are limited to six people and four horses. Two trailers and two vehicles are allowed at each site. If reservations are cancelled, there is a cancellation fee.

Water Recreation

Swimming and other water activities are not recommended within the boundaries of Great Smoky Mountains, because of dangers and hazards. The leading cause of death in the park is drowning. Remember, it takes hours to get a person who has been injured to a medical facility. There are no lifeguard monitored swimming facilities in the park. Water levels in rivers and streams can rise rapidly if areas upstream get a lot of rain. This creates swift currents that can sweep you downstream. Use extreme caution and never leave children unattended for any reason.

Wildlife Viewing

Great Smoky Mountains offers excellent wildlife viewing opportunities. Wildlife sightings are common. More than sixty-five mammals call the park home. Bobcats and coyotes are reclusive but deer are often seen, as are red and gray squirrels, chipmunks, groundhogs, opossums, bats, skunks, raccoons and red or gray fox.

Amphibians

It is very common to see salamanders, frogs and toads in the park. The Smokies have been dubbed the Salamander Capital of the World because at least thirty species of salamanders live there. One subspecies is not found anywhere else in the world.

Birds

More than two hundred thirty birds call the park home and over one hundred ten breed within its boundaries. If you enjoy bird watching, the best viewing times is very early morning when they are most active. Common species seen in the park include barn swallows, blue jays, cardinals, chickadees, chimney swifts, eastern phoebes, indigo buntings and warblers. Eagles, hawks and turkey vultures and other birds of prey are often seen. The best bird viewing areas are Cades Cove, Oconaluftee and Sugarlands.

Reptiles

Lizards, turtles and snakes all live in Great Smoky Mountains. There are two species of poisonous rattlesnakes in the park; the northern copperhead and the timber rattlesnake. Neither snake’s venom is lethal. Snake bites within the park are rare. Use common sense and stay alert. Other common reptiles seen in the park are the common snapping turtle, the eastern box turtle and the southeastern five-lined skink.

Bears

Great Smoky Mountains is one place in the eastern US where black bears can live in their natural habitat. They live on all elevation levels and there are approximately sixteen hundred of them within the park’s boundaries. Two bears live in each square miles of the park. Some bears have been recorded as weighing more than six hundred pounds, though normal weight is two hundred fifty for males and one hundred pounds and up for females. Wild bears live from ten to fifteen years. Bears who are fed by humans have a life span of half that. For this reason, and because it’s dangerous, feeding the bears is strictly prohibited.

Usually bears are spotted in early morning or late evening. Mating takes place in July and both males and females can be more aggressive during this time. Cubs are born in January and spend their first year with their mother. Never approach a bear cub. You can bet that Mama Bear is not far away.

A bear’s behavior is always unpredictable. Attacks on humans are rare, but have occurred. Bears can inflict serious injury or kill humans easily. If you spot a bear, remain alert. If it changes its behavior in any way, makes loud noises, looks at you and huffs, swats the ground or runs at you, you are much too close. The bear is telling you that you are in its space. Never run from a bear; back away slowly. If you give the bear the space that it’s demanding, it will not be as inclined to attack.

If a bear follows you without a change in its behavior, change direction; you may both just be going the same way. If the bear continues to follow you, try to intimidate it by shouting, clapping your hand loudly and acting aggressive. Throw rocks or pieces of wood at it. Never leave or throw food. This promotes aggression if the animal has another encounter with humans.

Black bear injuries are not common in the park. If a bear attempts to get your food, distance yourself from the area. If a black bear attacks you, use a large stick or other object and fight aggressively. Be sure to report all bear aggression to a park ranger. This keeps him informed, which can protect others from bear attack.

Elk

At one time elk roamed the hills and valleys of the Appalachians, but were eliminated by loss of habitat and over-hunting. In 2001, twenty-five elk were released in the park as an experiment. Another twenty-seven were released in 2002. If these animals threaten other species in the park or create conflicts with humans, the program will end. If you plan to photograph or watch these magnificent animals, do so from a distance. Males weight between six and seven hundred pounds; cows five hundred. They are seven to ten feet long and are definitely an animal to be respected. Summer is calving time; fall is the time when males bugle their calls to attract cows and challenge other bulls. Elk are especially aggressive when mating or when they have calves to protect.

The best elk viewing opportunities occur in early morning or late evening. Elk are more active on cloudy days and before or after a storm. It’s best to use binoculars to view elk. If an elk stops feeding, alters its behavior, or changes direction, you’re much too close. Elks can be very dangerous. Never approach lone calves. Mama is not far away and if you approach or touch a calf, you’ll have to deal with five-hundred pounds of angry, charging elk. This will not be a positive experience.

Climate

Weather conditions within the boundaries of Great Smoky Mountains National Park can change quickly and without notice. Be prepared and check weather conditions and predictions for eastern Tennessee and northwest Carolina before visiting.

Pay Attention

Great Smoky Mountains is in very close proximity to Cherokee, Pisgah and Nantahala National Forests. Rules and regulations between national forests and national parks vary greatly. Be sure you pay attention to where you are. Activities that are legal within Great Smoky Mountains may be illegal in the national forest areas. While in the park be sure to pick up a free map to stay on track; if in doubt ask a park ranger. It could save you an appearance in court and a hefty fine.

Visiting the Park

There’s much to see and do in Great Smoky Mountains National Park. It is a great place to get out into the great outdoors, enjoy nature, hike, bike, or ride a horse or to enjoy a picnic with family and friends. Follow the rules, have fun and enjoy your stay.