Normandy is one of the most beautiful regions of France. It is also heavy with the march of history, from the knights of William the Conqueror, to the brave soldiers who stormed the beaches one June morning in 1944.
Normandy gets
its name from the Norsemen who invaded the region in the north of France
under their chieftain Rolf the Ganger, named because it was said that he had
such long legs that he could not ride a horse. The Norsemen and the King of
France came to an understanding that the Norsemen could settle in the land now
called Normandy if they would convert to Christianity and hold it as a Duchy as
the King’s vassals. Within a couple of centuries, the Normans,
as they were called, became not only Christian, but French, speaking the French
language, and taking on French customs.
In 1066, the then Duke of Normandy
William the Bastard invaded England
and, after his victory at Hastings,
became King of England as well as William the Conqueror. For some time thereafter
the Kings of England were generally also Dukes of Normandy. Despite the fact
that they held Normandy as
vassals of the French King, they were not prevented from going to war with France
from time to time. Normandy and
most of the other English possessions on the continent were lost by King John
in the early 13th Century. During the Hundred Years War, the English
took Normandy and most of what we
call France
today until, in the early 15th Century, Joan of Arc turned the tide.
By the 1550, all of the English lands in France
were lost again, except for the city of Calais,
which was lost in its turn in the 1550s.
Normandy was
the venue of the greatest sea born invasion in history when the American,
British, Canadian, and Free French armies landed on the beaches on the morning
of July 6th, 1944
to take back the continent of Europe from the Nazis.
After heavy fighting and at grievous cost, the allies took the beaches and
began to move inland.
Today Normandy
is a must visit destination, rich in history from the knights of the Middle
Ages, to the heroes of World War II.
Bayeux
Bayeux grew from
an old Viking settlement a few miles inland between Cherbourg
and Le Havre. It was the first town
to be liberated during the D-Day Invasion. While in Baueux, a visitor must
visit the Musée de la Tapisserie de Bayeux,
where the famous Bayeux Tapestry is housed. The tapestry depicts the 58 scenes
concerning the invasion and conquest of England
by William the Conqueror. It is thought to have been made by English
embroiderers in Kent
between 1066 and 1077. Among the scenes shown are the coronation of Harold as
the Saxon king of England,
Harold's return from Normandy,
Willam dressed for war and Harold's death. Another museum in Bayeux
is the Musée Memorial de la Bataille de Normandie, dedicated to the campaign to
liberate Normany between July 6th,
1944 and August 22nd,
1944. There are numerous exhibits depicting both the military and
human drama of the campaign. Visitors can view film displays, as well as see
several different tanks, which are located outside the museum. Among these are
a M10 Tank Destroyer, and a Crocodile Flamethrower Tank. The museum is designed
in the style of a bunker, and also features wax soldiers dressed in uniform.
The British Commonwealth War Graves Cemetary is located across from the museum.
Also worth a visit is the Notre-Dame de Bayeux church, a fine Norman Romanesque
cathedral, rich in sculpture. It also boasts several different architectural
styles. Rising on the western side of the cathedral are Romanesque towers, and
the nave is desgined in Norman Romanesque. The choir, built in the 13th
century, features Norman Gothic style and Renaissance stalls. Also of interest
here is the crypt. It was built in the 11th century, and then sealed, so its
existence was not discovered again until 1412.
Caen
Caen really took
off as a major town under Duke William the Conqueror, who is responsible for
building many of the historical sites there. It was an objection of the D Day
Invasion but was not taken for several weeks, after which much of the town was
in ruins, making it necessary to rebuild it after the war. The Abbaye aux Dames or Ladies Abbey was
founded by Mathilda, the wife of William the Conquerer. It is flanked by
Romanesque towers whose spires were destroyed in the Hundred Years War. The
tomb of Queen Mathilda is located here in the 12th century choir. Abbaye aux
Hommes or Men’s Abbey was founded by William the Conqueror and his wife
Mathilda. The abbey was begun in Romanesque style in
1066 and added to in the 18th century. Its elegant buildings are now part of
City Hall and some rooms are brightened by the town's fine collection of
paintings. Twin Romanesque towers standing 84 meters in height dominate
the church. The tomb of William is commemorated here by a marble slab inside
the high altar. The tomb was destroyed during an uprising in 1562, with only a
hipbone being recovered. During the French Revolution, what was left of his
ashes were scattered into the wind.
A museum is located at the Caen Memorial. Commemorated here
are events from 1918 to the present, with the unfolding and meaning of World
War II being the main focus. The Caen
Peace Museum
depicts the beginning of World War II, the conquest and Nazification of Europe,
and the liberation of Europe by the allies. The Musée de Normandie is dedicated to regional arts and
objects found in local archeological finds.
Rouen
Rouen was
founded by the Romans who called it Rotomagus. It was the capital of the province
of Neustria until it was overrun by
the Norsemen who made it the capital o fthe Duchy of Normandy. Rouen
was taken by the French King Philippe Auguste in 1203. Joan of Arc was burned
at the stake here in 1431.
The Musée de la Céramique features numerous exhibits of
ceramic art, among these are a showcase of the works of Masseot Abaquesne. The
Musée des Beaux-Arts has pieces from Rubens, Caravaggio, Poussin, Corot and
others. There is an entire area devoted to the works of Géricault, and included
amongst them is a portrait of Delacroix. There are several Impressionist works
here as well, including several versions of the Rouen Cathedral by Monet. The Musée Jeanne-d'Arc focuses on the life
and martyrdom of Joan of Arc. The
vaulted cellar contains dioramas and wax sculptures which depict her life from
her birth in Domremy, to her death in the Rouen
square where she was burned at the stake.
The Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Rouen is probably best known by
being immortalized by Monet in a series of Impressionist paintings. Porte
Central, the main door, is surrounded with sculptures depicting the Tree of
Jesus. The church was consecrated in
1063, but was the victim of bombings during World War II, and reconstructed
following the war.
Mont Saint Michel
Le Mont-Saint-Michel is a rocky, cone-shaped islet in the Gulf
of Saint-Malo, connected by a
causeway with the mainland. The islet, celebrated for its Benedictine abbey,
has small houses and shops on its lowest level. Above these stand the monastic
buildings, many of which date from the 13th century and are considered
outstanding examples of Gothic architecture. The entire islet is crowned by the
abbey church, about 240 ft above sea level. The visitor can visit
shops and museums in the medieval style village below, before ascending to the
abbey and enjoying the magnificent view it gives of the surrounding bay and
countryside.
The Invasion Beaches
Perhaps the most epic battle in the history of the world
took place starting in the early morning hours of June 6th, 1944. Preceded by a behind the lines
air assault by three Airborne Divisions, troops from the United States, Great
Britain, Canada, and the Free French landed on the beaches of Normandy,
supported by a bombardment by aircraft and a five thousand ship greatest fleet
ever assembled. After a day of heavy fighting and grievous casualties, the
allied armies obtained a foothold on the continent of Europe.
The end of the Nazi regime had begun.
The invasion beaches are readily accessible from the major
towns of Normandy. Of particular
interest is Omaha Beach,
scene of the heaviest fighting of the battle, with the German battery at
Longues sur Mer and the cliffs of Pointe du Huc, where American Rangers climbed
on ropes under murderous fire from the Germans to seize the heights. Nearby is
the American cemetery at Colleville-sur-Mer where many who gave the last full
measure that day rest. Also, be sure to visit the museum at Arromanches.
Visiting Normandy
Normandy is
readily accessible from Paris by
rail or road. Destinations in the region, taken singularly, such as the
invasion beaches or Mont Saint Michel, can be done as a day trip from Paris,
but several days should be allocated to seeing the entire region.