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A History Lovers Guide to Normandy 
 
by Mark R. Whittington July 19, 2005

Normandy is one of the most beautiful regions of France. It is also heavy with the march of history, from the knights of William the Conqueror, to the brave soldiers who stormed the beaches one June morning in 1944.

Normandy gets its name from the Norsemen who invaded the region in the north of France under their chieftain Rolf the Ganger, named because it was said that he had such long legs that he could not ride a horse. The Norsemen and the King of France came to an understanding that the Norsemen could settle in the land now called Normandy if they would convert to Christianity and hold it as a Duchy as the King’s vassals. Within a couple of centuries, the Normans, as they were called, became not only Christian, but French, speaking the French language, and taking on French customs.

In 1066, the then Duke of Normandy William the Bastard invaded England and, after his victory at Hastings, became King of England as well as William the Conqueror. For some time thereafter the Kings of England were generally also Dukes of Normandy. Despite the fact that they held Normandy as vassals of the French King, they were not prevented from going to war with France from time to time. Normandy and most of the other English possessions on the continent were lost by King John in the early 13th Century. During the Hundred Years War, the English took Normandy and most of what we call France today until, in the early 15th Century, Joan of Arc turned the tide. By the 1550, all of the English lands in France were lost again, except for the city of Calais, which was lost in its turn in the 1550s.

Normandy was the venue of the greatest sea born invasion in history when the American, British, Canadian, and Free French armies landed on the beaches on the morning of July 6th, 1944 to take back the continent of Europe from the Nazis. After heavy fighting and at grievous cost, the allies took the beaches and began to move inland.

Today Normandy is a must visit destination, rich in history from the knights of the Middle Ages, to the heroes of World War II.

Bayeux

Bayeux grew from an old Viking settlement a few miles inland between Cherbourg and Le Havre. It was the first town to be liberated during the D-Day Invasion. While in Baueux, a visitor must visit the Musée de la Tapisserie de Bayeux, where the famous Bayeux Tapestry is housed. The tapestry depicts the 58 scenes concerning the invasion and conquest of England by William the Conqueror. It is thought to have been made by English embroiderers in Kent between 1066 and 1077. Among the scenes shown are the coronation of Harold as the Saxon king of England, Harold's return from Normandy, Willam dressed for war and Harold's death. Another museum in Bayeux is the Musée Memorial de la Bataille de Normandie, dedicated to the campaign to liberate Normany between July 6th, 1944 and August 22nd, 1944. There are numerous exhibits depicting both the military and human drama of the campaign. Visitors can view film displays, as well as see several different tanks, which are located outside the museum. Among these are a M10 Tank Destroyer, and a Crocodile Flamethrower Tank. The museum is designed in the style of a bunker, and also features wax soldiers dressed in uniform. The British Commonwealth War Graves Cemetary is located across from the museum. Also worth a visit is the Notre-Dame de Bayeux church, a fine Norman Romanesque cathedral, rich in sculpture. It also boasts several different architectural styles. Rising on the western side of the cathedral are Romanesque towers, and the nave is desgined in Norman Romanesque. The choir, built in the 13th century, features Norman Gothic style and Renaissance stalls. Also of interest here is the crypt. It was built in the 11th century, and then sealed, so its existence was not discovered again until 1412.

Caen

Caen really took off as a major town under Duke William the Conqueror, who is responsible for building many of the historical sites there. It was an objection of the D Day Invasion but was not taken for several weeks, after which much of the town was in ruins, making it necessary to rebuild it after the war. The Abbaye aux Dames or Ladies Abbey was founded by Mathilda, the wife of William the Conquerer. It is flanked by Romanesque towers whose spires were destroyed in the Hundred Years War. The tomb of Queen Mathilda is located here in the 12th century choir. Abbaye aux Hommes or Men’s Abbey was founded by William the Conqueror and his wife Mathilda. The abbey was begun in Romanesque style in 1066 and added to in the 18th century. Its elegant buildings are now part of City Hall and some rooms are brightened by the town's fine collection of paintings. Twin Romanesque towers standing 84 meters in height dominate the church. The tomb of William is commemorated here by a marble slab inside the high altar. The tomb was destroyed during an uprising in 1562, with only a hipbone being recovered. During the French Revolution, what was left of his ashes were scattered into the wind.

A museum is located at the Caen Memorial. Commemorated here are events from 1918 to the present, with the unfolding and meaning of World War II being the main focus. The Caen Peace Museum depicts the beginning of World War II, the conquest and Nazification of Europe, and the liberation of Europe by the allies. The Musée de Normandie is dedicated to regional arts and objects found in local archeological finds.

Rouen

Rouen was founded by the Romans who called it Rotomagus. It was the capital of the province of Neustria until it was overrun by the Norsemen who made it the capital o fthe Duchy of Normandy. Rouen was taken by the French King Philippe Auguste in 1203. Joan of Arc was burned at the stake here in 1431.

The Musée de la Céramique features numerous exhibits of ceramic art, among these are a showcase of the works of Masseot Abaquesne. The Musée des Beaux-Arts has pieces from Rubens, Caravaggio, Poussin, Corot and others. There is an entire area devoted to the works of Géricault, and included amongst them is a portrait of Delacroix. There are several Impressionist works here as well, including several versions of the Rouen Cathedral by Monet. The Musée Jeanne-d'Arc focuses on the life and martyrdom of Joan of Arc. The vaulted cellar contains dioramas and wax sculptures which depict her life from her birth in Domremy, to her death in the Rouen square where she was burned at the stake.

The Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Rouen is probably best known by being immortalized by Monet in a series of Impressionist paintings. Porte Central, the main door, is surrounded with sculptures depicting the Tree of Jesus. The church was consecrated in 1063, but was the victim of bombings during World War II, and reconstructed following the war.

Mont Saint Michel

Le Mont-Saint-Michel is a rocky, cone-shaped islet in the Gulf of Saint-Malo, connected by a causeway with the mainland. The islet, celebrated for its Benedictine abbey, has small houses and shops on its lowest level. Above these stand the monastic buildings, many of which date from the 13th century and are considered outstanding examples of Gothic architecture. The entire islet is crowned by the abbey church, about 240 ft above sea level. The visitor can visit shops and museums in the medieval style village below, before ascending to the abbey and enjoying the magnificent view it gives of the surrounding bay and countryside.

The Invasion Beaches

Perhaps the most epic battle in the history of the world took place starting in the early morning hours of June 6th, 1944. Preceded by a behind the lines air assault by three Airborne Divisions, troops from the United States, Great Britain, Canada, and the Free French landed on the beaches of Normandy, supported by a bombardment by aircraft and a five thousand ship greatest fleet ever assembled. After a day of heavy fighting and grievous casualties, the allied armies obtained a foothold on the continent of Europe. The end of the Nazi regime had begun.

The invasion beaches are readily accessible from the major towns of Normandy. Of particular interest is Omaha Beach, scene of the heaviest fighting of the battle, with the German battery at Longues sur Mer and the cliffs of Pointe du Huc, where American Rangers climbed on ropes under murderous fire from the Germans to seize the heights. Nearby is the American cemetery at Colleville-sur-Mer where many who gave the last full measure that day rest. Also, be sure to visit the museum at Arromanches.

Visiting Normandy

Normandy is readily accessible from Paris by rail or road. Destinations in the region, taken singularly, such as the invasion beaches or Mont Saint Michel, can be done as a day trip from Paris, but several days should be allocated to seeing the entire region.


 




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