Norway's capital and largest city sneaks up on one and makes one very glad one came. Oslo has a certain staid reputation and is by no means Scandinavia's most beautiful city. But low-key Oslo nonetheless has lots to see and do - it just doesn't make such a big fuss about it.
King Harald Hardråda founded Oslo
in 1048 and in the early 14th century King Håkon V created a military presence
by building the Akershus Festning in the hope of deterring the Swedish threat
from the east. In 1624 Oslo was
destroyed by a massive fire but was rebuilt by King Christian IV, who renamed
the city Christiana after himself. Oslo
was rebuilt on the west side of the river, making it more defensible. Norway
united with Sweden
in 1814 and the unification contributed to Oslo's
strong economic and political growth right up until the break with the Swedes
in 1905. In 1925 the city reverted to its original name, Oslo.
Despite Norway
declaring itself neutral in WWII, Germany
invaded in 1940. During the war the Norwegian government continued to represent
an independent Norway
in exile. Oslo benefited from
postwar prosperity generated in large part by the discovery of oilfields in Norway's
North Sea waters in the 1960s and 1970s
Akershus Slott Festning
This medieval castle and fortress were built in 1300 and reconstructed
several times after many attacks, including one occurring during the 1563-70
War of the North. The visitor will find tiny rooms where outcast nobles were
kept, in stark contrast to the far more elaborate dining halls and staterooms
on the upper floors. The Akershus contains dungeons, plush upper floors with
banquet halls and staterooms, and the chapel used for royal events. The chapel
holds the crypts of King Haakon VII and King Olav V.
Akershus was one of the sturdiest castles in northern Europe.
Its unique layout, as well as the difficult terrain where it sits overlooking
the harbor, made it almost impregnable. In the early 17th Century, the fortress
was modernized and remodeled under the reign of King Christian IV, and got the
appearance of a renaissance castle. At the fortress one can see the changing of
the guard each afternoon. Nowadays, the fortress grounds play host to concerts
and theatre productions. The Norwegian Armed Forces museum and the Norwegian
Resistance museum can be visited there. Standing on the walls and ramparts you
will get truly great views of the Oslo
fjord and the city.
Norsk Folkemuseum
This fascinating open-air, living museum contains around 150 buildings from
different regions, mostly dating from the 17th and 18th centuries, including
one of Norway's oldest structures, the Gol Stave Church, built early in the
13th century in Gol and moved to its present location in 1885.The visitor will
wander past old banks, pharmacies, post offices, barns and farmhouses and see folk
dancing and weaving and people dressed in festive costumes. The Old Town
section reproduces an early 20th-century town and contains a petrol station and
a general store, and the first thing you'll come across as you step through the
main entrance is a huge display of old toys, costumes, tools and appliances
from around the country. The old buildings here span Norway's history throughout the ages and regions. Indoors,
there's a fascinating display of folk costumes. There are displays of richly
embroidered, colorful bunader or national costumes from every region,
including one set at a Telemark country wedding. The museum also has stunning
dragon-style wood carvings from 1550 and some beautiful rosemaling. The traditional
costumes of the Sámi or Lapp people of northern Norway are exhibited around one of their tents. If one is
visiting in summer, inquire about Norwegian Evening, a summer program of folk
dancing, guided tours, and food tastings. During Sundays in December, the
museum holds Oslo's largest Christmas market.
Vigeland Park
Here one can spend hours wandering around and seeing 192 sculptures made by
Gustav Vigeland. Sculptures of entwined lovers, tranquil elderly couples and
downtrodden beggars dot this beautiful park. The park is situated in the middle
of Frognerparken, a leafy, green park, perfect for lazing about on a sunny day.
The Monolith
The park's highest point, a 46ft monolith carved out of a single block of
stone, consists of 121 writhing human figures. At the bottom there are
seemingly inert bodies. Above them figures ascend in a spiral, the movement
halting midway and then rising at a fast pace towards the summit which is
covered by small children.
Around the Monolith
Surrounding the Monolith are 36 groups in granite depicting the cycle of
life. Every sculpture includes at least two figures depicting Man in a variety
of typical human situations and relationships. A man and woman sit facing one
another with a little child between them. Children play, young men and women
dream and embrace. Old age is represented in several groups.
The Fountain
The Fountain is the earliest sculpture unit in the park, made about 1907. In
the center of the basin, six giants hold the large saucer-shaped vessel aloft
and from it a curtain of water spills down around them. The men, representing
different ages, may be interpreted as toiling with the burden of life and the
effort expended in lifting the heavy vessel varies. Water, a universal symbol
of fertility, is used within the fountain complex in a meaningful juxtaposition
with the twenty "tree groups" on the surrounding parapet, the latter
evidently symbolizing the "tree of life."
The Bridge
58 bronze sculptures on granite parapets stand on either side of the Bridge
portraying people of widely differing ages, although there is less emphasis on
old age than others in the park. Many characteristic representations of
children are noticeable. Dominant motifs among the groups are the relationships
between man and woman and between adults and children. In one sculpture you
find a bronze wheel enclosing a man and woman linked together in a rotating
movement.
The Wheel of Life
After finishing the 58 sculptures for the bridge in the early 1930s,
Vigeland completed a small children's circle located at one end of the bridge next
to the small lake. The large bronze "Wheel of Life," is composed of
figures swirling in an eternal circle.
Vikingskipshuset
The Viking Ship
Museum is the best place in the
world to find out how the Vikings sailed around the world. This museum houses Viking
ship discoveries from Gokstad, Oseburg, Tune and around the Oslo Fjord. Here
one can see the world's two best preserved wooden Viking ships built in the 9th
century. The ships were used as tombs for noble people and they were buried
with everything they thought would be needed in the afterlife, including
jewels, food, furniture and even servants. The ships are beautifully preserved,
courtesy of the blue clay in which they were buried.
The Oseberg was found in 1903 and in its heyday required 30 oarsmen.
It's magnificently decorated with dragon and serpent carvings and its burial
chamber held the largest collection of Viking-age artifacts ever uncovered in Scandinavia.
Experts have concluded that this ship was purely a pleasure vessel for sailing
in peaceful waters because the wood used to build its mast was not as strong as
in other ships. The impressive Gokstad was built around 890 AD and it's
believed to have been a warship. Although not as elaborately decorated as the Oseberg,
the Gokstad was sturdier and had several smaller boats measuring from
23ft to around 33ft in length. These were used for ferrying people ashore and
for fishing. Only a few boards and fragments remain of the third ship, the Tune.
The museum also displays the treasures excavated with each of the ships.
Visiting Oslo
Oslo's international airport is a whopping 30mi north of
the center of town in Gardermoen. To get to and from the airport take the
Flybussen shuttle bus, that departs every 10 minutes for the 40 minute trip.
The airport express train departs Central Station every 10 minutes and the trip
takes about 20 minutes. All regular intercity trains arriving from northern
regions will stop at Gardermoen and the train from Skien also stops at the
airport. Oslo can also be accessed by
bus, rail, or by ferry. Oslo, like most European
cities, has a good public transit system, though most places are accessible by
foot.