Stockholm is one of the most beautiful national capitals in the world. The Old Town is particularly spectacular, and walking around the city's waterways and parks is a great way to spend a week-long stretch of European summer.
A History of Stockholm
The City’s Beginnings
Stockholm began when Sweden's
most important chieftain in the mid-13th century, Birger Jarl, built a fort on
one of the strategically placed islets where the fresh water entered the sea,
and traffic on the waterways was controlled using timber stocks arranged as a
fence, or boom. Stockholm, meaning
'tree-trunk islet', may well be named after this boom. Within a century, Stockholm
was the largest city in Sweden,
dominated by an impregnable castle and surrounded by a defensive wall. The city
was periodically ravaged by fire until timber buildings with turf roofs were
replaced with brick structures. By the late 15th century, the population was
around 6000, and Stockholm had
become a significant commercial center. Shipping copper and iron to continental
Europe was a lucrative trade that was dominated by
German merchants.
War and Rebellion
In 1471, the Danish King Christian I besieged Stockholm,
but his 5000-strong army was routed by the Swedes just outside the city walls
at the Battle of Brunkeberg. In 1520 when city burghers, bishops and nobility
agreed to meet the Danish King Christian II in Stockholm,
and the king arrested them all at a banquet. After a quick trial, the Swedes
were found guilty of burning down the archbishop's castle near Sigtuna, and 82
men were beheaded the following day at Stortorget, the main square by the
castle. This ghastly event became known as the 'Stockholm Blood Bath': heavy
rain caused rivers of blood from the bodies to pour down steep alleys
descending from the square. A major rebellion followed and Gustav Vasa finally
entered the city in 1523 after a two-year siege. The new king then ruled the
city with a heavy hand. Though the role of commerce dwindled and the church was
extinguished entirely, royal power grew and the city revolved around the court.
Gustav's son Erik XIV and later kings raised taxes on the burghers to fund
wars. However, some did well from arms manufacture, and the city's importance
as a military headquarters increased. At the end of the 16th century, Stockholm's
population was 9000, but this expanded in the following century to 60,000 as
the Swedish empire reached its greatest extent.
Expansion and Disaster
In the 17th century, town planners laid out a street grid beyond the
medieval city center. Stockholm
became capital of Sweden
in 1634. Famine wiped out 100,000 people across Sweden
during the harsh winter of 1696-7, and starving hordes descended on the
capital. The old royal castle, Tre Kronor, burned down, also in 1697. In 1711,
plague arrived and the death rate soared to 1200 per day - from a population of
only 50,000! After the death of King Karl XII, the country and the capital went
into stagnation.
In the 18th century, Swedish science and arts blossomed, allowing the
creation of institutions and fine buildings. Another period of stagnation
followed the assassination of King Gustav III. Promised 19th-century reforms
never arrived, and bloody street riots were common. Further town planning
starting in the 1860s created many of the wide avenues and apartment blocks
still to be seen today.
Stockholm in the Modern Age
The city rapidly industrialized and expanded, and by 1915 it was home to
364,000 people. The 1912 summer Olympics were held in Stockholm.
The next major transformation of the city started in the 1960s, when large 'new
towns' sprung up around the outskirts and extensive areas of slums were
flattened to make way for concrete office blocks, and highways. The financial
and construction boom of the 1980s helped make the city a very expensive place
to live. Once that bubble burst during the 1990s recession, the devalued krona
actually helped Stockholm. Swedish
tourism grew, and foreign tourists arrived in ever-increasing numbers. Since
the country's entry into the European Union, Stockholm's
progress towards becoming an affordable, vivacious tourist destination has
continued apace.
Haga Park
During the 1780s King Gustav III, aided by the architect
Fredrik Magnus Piper, began transforming the park into a fashionable romantic
landscape, known in Sweden
as an "English Park".
Meandering paths, sudden vistas, and radically tamed scenery alternating with
the grandeur of unspoiled nature are typical components of this landscaping.
Tucked inside Haga Park,
Gustav III’s Paviljong is a marvelous example of European neo-classicism. The
furnishings and décor reflect Gustav III's interest in all things Roman,
developed during his Italian tour in 1782. Not only are the permanent fittings
and decorations of the different rooms very well preserved, but also a great
deal of the pavilion's original furniture is still in existence. The "Queen's Pavilion", today
better known as Haga Palace, where guests of the Swedish Government are
accommodated, was built in the early years of the 19th century.
Kungliga Slottet
Kungliga Slottet is the largest royal castle in the world still used for its
original purpose. It was constructed on the site of the 'old' royal castle, Tre
Kronor, which burned down in 1697. The walls of the north wing of the castle
survived and were incorporated in the new palace, but the medieval designs are
now concealed by a baroque exterior. The new palace, which has 608 rooms, was
designed by the court architect Nicodemus Tessin the Younger, and wasn't
completed until 57 years after the fire. The sections available for visting are
the Royal Apartments, the treasury, the Tre Kroner musuem and the Gustav
III Antiquities Museum,
which contains the King’s collection of Greek and Roman statues. The Changing
of the Guard usually takes place in the outer courtyard at 12:10pm daily from June to August (but at 1:10pm on Sunday and public holidays). The
rest of the year it's on Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday only. It can last over
20 minutes and is quite an interesting spectacle.
Skansen
Skansen, the world's first open-air museum, was founded in 1891 by Artur
Hazelius to let visitors see how Swedes lived in previous times. Today, around
150 traditional houses, with a staff in period costume, and other exhibits from
all over Sweden
occupy this attractive hill top. It's a spectacular 'Sweden
in miniature' and you could spend all day here. There are 46 buildings from
rural areas around the country, including a Sami camp, complete with reindeer,
farmsteads representing several regions, a manor house and a school.
Stadshuset
The town hall is topped with a golden spire and the symbol of Swedish power,
the three royal crowns. Inside is the beautiful mosaic-lined Gyllene Salen or
Golden Hall, Prins Eugen's fresco re-creation of the lake view from the
gallery, and the immense Blå
Hallen or Blue Hall where the annual
Nobel Prize banquet is held. A trip to the top of the
348-foot tower, most of which can be achieved by elevator, is rewarded by a
breathtaking panorama of the city and Riddarfjärden. Entry with tours
only.
Millesgarden
On the island of Lingingö, northeast of Stockholm, is the former villa and
sculpture garden of Carl Milles, Sweden’s foremost sculptor.
Although it takes time to reach the villa from the center of Stockholm, it is worth the trip.
Some of the artist's most important works are found here, including his
monumental and much-reproduced sculpture Hands of God. Sculptures sit
atop columns on terraces in this garden of almost magical proportions set high
above the harbor and the city landscape. Here figures from myth and legend loom
about in bonze majesty. Milles’ villa contains a unique collection of classical
and medieval art.
The Wasa Museum
On August 10, 1628, the pride of the Swedish fleet, the Wasa, set sail
to teach the Poles a lesson. On a clear, calm day, the top heavy ship almost
immediately capsized and sank before the stunned eyes of the crowds that had
gathered to see her off. More than three hundred years later, the ship was
raised, preserved, and, in 1990, placed in a modern museum. The museum contains
not only the restored ship, but replicas of the Captain’s cabin, the crews’
quarters, a cannon deck, cinemas, computer displays, and hundreds of artifacts
from the formerly sunken ship.
Visiting Stockholm
Stockholm’s international airport is about 28 miles north of
the city. Stockholm is also accessible by bus
or train service, with connections to Copenhagen. The extensive train
system is the best way to get around the city, as driving is not recommended.
Taxis are available, however, and some people like to bicycle around the
various attractions Stockholm has to offer.