Fishy Facts

The goldfish has been kept as a pet for over 1,500 years.  Originating in China (400 A.D.), it’s popularity then extended to Japan (1500 A.D.), Europe (1700 A.D.) and on to North America in the mid 1800’s.

The Shopping List

Unlike tropical fish, such as guppies and tetras, the goldfish is a “coldwater” fish.  The reason for this is that goldfish are heavier bodied than tropical fish and as such require a higher level of oxygen in the water to survive.  Cold water contains more oxygen. For this reason, it’s always best to keep your goldfish in a separate tank.

Notice I said “tank” and not “bowl”.  It is this author’s opinion that the only thing that a goldfish bowl is good for is keeping candy or buttons in.  Please, for the health of your new friend, invest a little extra money and purchase, at a minimum, a 10 gallon tank for him or her.  An aquarium has a much larger surface area than a bowl, which allows more oxygen to enter the water.

In addition to a tank you will also need:

• Gravel - choose the largest size available as goldfish will attempt to eat anything in the tank, even rocks.
• Aquarium stand – one gallon of water weighs approximately eight pounds.  Unless you’re certain the piece of furniture you’re going to put the tank on can withstand 80+ pounds, it’s best to purchase a stand.
• Plastic plants - yes, real plants look nicer but to a goldfish they look like a tasty dinner.
• Thermometer – I prefer the type that adheres to the outside of the tank.  Goldfish can be rather rambunctious at times and you’ll quickly get tired of reapplying the thermometer to the glass each time it gets knocked loose.
• A heater if the temperature in your home ever goes below 60 degrees.
• Power filter – these are more expensive than an undergravel or sponge filter.  However they do a significantly better job of helping keep your tank clean, resulting in fewer water changes.
• Water conditioner – today’s tap water is treated with many different chemicals before it finally reaches your home.  Unfortunately some of these chemicals are deadly to fish.  Always add conditioner whenever you’re setting up a new tank or doing a water change.
• Siphon – a long narrow tube with an even narrower tube attached at one end. These are like mini-vacuums for your tank.
• Fish net

Home Sweet Home

Now that you’ve managed to get all this equipment home, what’s the next step?  The first thing you’ll want to do is dampen some paper towel and gently clean out the inside of the tank.  No soap required.   In fact, you don’t ever want soap anywhere near your tank unless you plan on murdering your fish.

Now rinse off the gravel.  A colander is a great tool for this job.  Simply dump the gravel into the colander and rinse it under warm water for a minute or so. 

Set your tank on its stand and gently place the gravel in the tank.  Generally speaking you’ll want the gravel to be higher in the back so that any debris will fall to the front of the tank, making it easier to clean.  Fill a bucket with cold water and slowly fill the tank almost to the top.  To help prevent the water splashing around in the tank and scattering gravel everywhere place a saucer on top of the gravel and pour the water over that.  Don’t forget to add your water conditioner!

If you’ve decided to purchase plastic plants, now would be the time to put those in.  Make sure they’re rooted deeply in the gravel; otherwise they run the risk of being used as tank toys by your goldfish.

Following the instructions that came with your power filter, get that up and running. Unpeel the backing from your thermometer and position it on the front of your tank.

Let the filter run overnight and the water come to room temperature.  Check your thermometer the next day.  If it’s somewhere between 60 and 85 degrees you’re ready to purchase your goldfish!

Goldfish Varieties

There are over 100 varieties of goldfish being bred in the world today.  If you are new to goldfish you’ll want to start out with some of the hardier types.  These include the Comet, the Shubunkin and the Fantail.  The Comet is usually the variety everyone immediately thinks of when they think “goldfish.”  Available in red, orange, silver and yellow it can grow up to 9” in length.  However, it is quite an energetic little fellow and is really only suitable for outdoor ponds which allow them more room to move around in.

The Shubunkin, also known as the “Calico Goldfish” is a beautiful creature with splotches of black, orange and red against a blue background.  Somewhat smaller than the Comet at 6” they are still vigorous swimmers and would prefer a pond environment.  However, if you really have your heart set on a Comet or Shubunkin it’s a perfectly acceptable practice to raise it in your tank until it becomes too big and then take it back to the pet store.  Usually they’ll be more than happy to take your fish and allow you to choose a new one.

This leaves us with the Fantail.  The Fantail is known as a double tailed goldfish because they have two tail fins and two anal fins.  It’s body shape is completely different from that of either the Comet or Shubunkin.  Whereas the Comet has a very slender, stream-lined body, the Fantail has more of an egg-shaped body.  Because of this it almost seems to wobble as it swims.  If you decide on a Fantail, try to find one that is a solid orange metallic in color – these are the hardiest.  Fantails grow anywhere from three to six inches and do very well in fish tanks.

Once you’ve made your choice, the clerk will partially fill a plastic bag with tank water and put your new friend inside.  Once you’ve arrived home undo the bag and let it float, with the goldfish still inside, in your tank.  Why are you doing this?  All fish are very susceptible to sudden changes in temperature.  At the very least, it will cause them extreme stress, which weakens their immune systems.  Let the bag float in the tank for roughly 30 minutes.  Then, using your fish net, gently scoop out the goldfish and place the net into the tank, allowing the fish to swim free.  Try not to get any of the tank water from the store into your new aquarium.  It could be harboring any number of diseases, which you certainly don’t want to add to your tank.

What’s For Dinner?

As I mentioned earlier, goldfish will basically eat anything they can get into their mouth.  Which doesn’t mean you should share your morning donut with them.  There are plenty of high quality flake foods specifically designed for goldfish as well as sinking and floating pellets.  If you choose pellets, try to purchase the sinking kind.  When goldfish feed at the surface they tend to gulp air that can lead to swimming problems. 

Other choices include live food, particularly brine shrimp.  They are available in most pet shops and are sold in half-ounce increments.  You can store them in your refrigerator in a plastic container and they’ll live quite happily for two to three days.  I use a plastic measuring cup to transfer them from their container to the tank.  Brine shrimp are also available in frozen cubes if your family objects to little creatures swimming around in the fridge.  One cube is more than enough for a single goldfish.  Bloodworms are another frozen food that goldfish love.  However, they are quite high in protein so you wouldn’t want to feed these every day.

Goldfish are omnivores, meaning they eat both animal and vegetable matter.  One of the things my goldfish loves the most is peas.   Besides being nutritious, peas are also high in fiber, which is very beneficial to goldfish.  A goldfish doesn’t really have a stomach.  Instead it has what is known as an alimentary tract.  It’s in everyone’s best interest to make sure this tract is “clog free.”  To prepare frozen peas place them in a sieve or colander and run them under hot water for a few minutes.  Generally speaking, goldfish prefer their peas without the skins on.

Housekeeping

Last but not least, there’s the matter of keeping your goldfish as healthy as possible.  Your goldfish’s health is directly related to how often you clean his or her tank.  In case you hadn’t noticed, your little friend is swimming around in his own waste.  Once this waste gets to a certain level it begins to cause your fish stress.  At the very minimum, you’ll need to change 25% of the tank water every two weeks.

To do this you’ll need two things, your siphon and a bucket.  Begin by turning off the filter and, if you’re using a heater, turn that off as well.  Slowly lower the wider end of the siphon into the tank.  Your fish may become startled and start swimming rapidly around the tank.  Don’t panic; eventually he’ll become quite blasé about it.  Now you’re going to create the suction needed to drain the water and debris from the tank.  How?  Well the easiest way is to simply suck on the opposite end of the siphon.  Don’t worry, eventually you’ll become so adept at this that you’ll rarely end up with a mouth of fishy water. 

Once the water is flowing move the siphon over the gravel.  You will be amazed at how much “gunk” the siphon picks up.  Remember, your fish has to live in this tank!  After you’ve removed a quarter of the water, empty your bucket and re-fill it with clean tap water.  Try to ensure that the water you’re putting in is equal in temperature to what’s already in the tank.  Don’t forget your water conditioner!

Moving On

Hopefully, your success with your first goldfish will encourage you to explore other varieties.  Orandas, veiltails, lionheads, the options are truly endless.  There are also goldfish clubs and societies. These generally meet once a month and have speakers discussing many different topics.  Members may also bring fish for sale and you might even get the chance to exhibit your fish at an annual show.  Good luck!