Flooring is a big investment, and a very noticeable part of your home. Keep it beautiful, whatever the type, with this guide to cleaning and maintenance.
There are few things that make your house look – or feel – more unpleasant than a dirty floor. Trust me, I know: just this morning, I walked across my kitchen tile and collected about a bushel of dog hair on my slippers, courtesy of my two Labradors. Yuck! Time to clean!
There are many varieties of flooring materials found in houses, often more than one in the same home, and it’s important to know exactly how to care for each type in order to maximize its beauty and durability. There’s more to keeping your floor clean than just an occasional once-over with a vacuum or mop. And there are more reasons for keeping it clean than just the way it looks: clean floors last longer. Dirt and debris are abrasive particles, and they get trampled over on a regular basis. Over time, these particles scratch the surface beyond repair, affecting the look of the floor. What’s worse, more dirt collects in the grooves and scratches made by the previous particles, and wears them down further, so they collect even more dirt … it’s a cycle that can be very detrimental to any type of flooring. If you keep your floor as dirt-free as possible, you can considerably extend its life, and make your investment worthwhile and your floor beautiful.
A tip for all types of flooring: use floor mats both outside and inside doorways to reduce the amount of grime that people track in on their shoes. Better yet, have people remove their shoes at the door!
Wood Floors – Care and Maintenance
Preventive maintenance is important: be sure to tend to any spills or messes immediately.
Every other day, use a broom or a soft, dry dust mop and sweep high-traffic areas of your home (exterior doorways, stairs, and in front of the sink, stove and refrigerator if your kitchen has a wood floor).
Although sweeping should be the primary method of cleaning your wood floor, you can also vacuum once a week or so in order to pick up the fine particles that the broom doesn’t get. Don’t use an upright or canister vacuum on a wood floor – they can be damaging. You can use a bare-floor brush attachment. Pull it toward you, keeping the handle raised so that the edge won’t scratch the floor’s surface.
Never use water to clean a wood floor. It can cause warping, and in extreme cases, even cause the floor to rot. Be cautious of too much water and water-based cleaning products even if your floor is protected by wax. Water damage can be very costly to repair! If you’re trying to clean up a mess and must use water, use this method: dampen a soft cloth, wring it out well, and wrap it around the head of a sponge mop. Go over a small section of the floor at a time, and be sure to wipe that section dry with a second cloth before moving on to the next part.
If your hardwood floor has a polyurethane finish and you want to remove a greasy film or dirt buildup, you can damp-mop with a nonabrasive, non-streaking solution: either one part ammonia to 20 parts warm water, or a mix of one cup of white vinegar and one gallon of warm water. Remember to thoroughly wring out your mop before you put it to the floor; it should be half dry. If you do end up with a puddle, take care of it right away to avoid water damage.
Some polyurethane finishes must be cleaned with a pH-neutral cleaner (check your manufacturer’s recommendations before choosing a cleaner). These types of cleaners are available at hardware and home improvement stores. If you’re using a pH cleaner, a two-step process is required, using two buckets and two mops. Fill one of the buckets with the cleaner, which will normally be diluted with water – mix carefully according to the package directions. Fill the other bucket with plain water. Wet a sponge mop with the cleaning solution, wring it out well, and then clean a small section of the floor. Dip your second mop into the water, wring it until half dry, and go over the spot you’ve just mopped in order to remove the excess cleaner.
Some finished can’t be damp-mopped. If you have an older finish, such as varnish or shellac, damp-mopping will remove the remaining shine. There are specialized cleaners available for these types of finish. If cleaning them doesn’t restore the shine, you can either wax over the old finish or start fresh by having the floor sanded, stained, and treated with a polyurethane coating.
Before you wax a hardwood floor, be sure to remove the old dirt and wax. Mix one cup of ammonia with one gallon of water, and evenly apply it to the floor with a damp mop. Once the floor has dried completely, apply the floor wax as per the manufacturer’s instructions. Ensure that the area is well-ventilated, because wood floor waxes are made with a petroleum solvent that can be irritating.
Liquid paste waxes provide a lustrous gleam rather than a high-gloss finish. They’re self-polishing and less slippery than most waxes, but they’re also slightly less durable, so if you use this type of wax you’ll have to apply a fresh coat several times a year. Because of the relatively frequent reapplications, there can be a buildup after a while; you may need to use a stripping solution to get rid of the old layers of wax before putting a new one down.
If you’re using a liquid paste wax, just pour out a little bit on a section of the floor that’s been prepared with the ammonia and water solution and spread it around with a long-handled wax applicator. This type of wax is very quick-drying – usually in about ten minutes – so it can harden on the applicator as well. Immediately after each use, you should wash the applicator’s soft pad with detergent.
Solid paste wax is more difficult to apply than liquid paste wax, but lasts longer, so there’s no need to reapply as frequently. Also, if you’re using this type of wax, you won’t need to strip the old away before applying a new coat, because paste wax tends to wear off with use.
If you’re using solid paste wax, you can apply it by hand using a soft cloth, or you can apply it with a waxing/buffing machine. These types of machines can be rented, but if you’re maintaining several wood floors, it may make better sense in the long run to buy one rather than rent it. Or simply invest in the services of a professional!
If you over-wax your floor, you’ll end up with a dull buildup. Only do the entire floor every other time. On the in-between times, wax high-traffic areas, but avoid areas that don’t get a lot of wear, such as corners and around furniture legs.
A simple recipe for a shiny wood floor from Linda Cobb, the “Queen of Clean”: Boil one quart of water and steep two teabags in it for a few minutes. Pour the tea into a bucket. Dip a soft cloth or mop into the tea and wring it out well; it should be damp, not wet. Wash the floor. The tannic acid in the tea will give the hardwood floor a beautiful shine.
Wood Floors – Spot and Scratch Removal
To remove scratches from a waxed wood floor, you should lightly buff the area with a piece of superfine steel wool. Always rub with the grain of the wood. When you’ve sanded out the scratch, apply two coats of paste wax and buff each coat with a soft cloth.
An alternate method of removing scratches: take a crayon that matches the floor color and rub it over the scratch, filling the gap. Heat the area with a blow dryer on the highest setting, then buff with a soft cloth.
To remove white spots or water stains, spread on some paste wax and rub the area with a piece of #0000 steel wool (again, remember to follow the grain). Buff to a shine. If this doesn’t work, sand it lightly, and then clean it with mineral spirits and #00 steel wool. Stain the area to match, wax it, and then buff it to its original finish.
To remove black heel marks, dip a piece of steel wool in wood floor cleaner. Rub the mark gently, let the floor dry, and re-wax and buff if necessary.
To remove burns, first try rubbing the mark away with a damp sponge or fine steel wool; most floors have a tough protective finish, so the burn mark will only be on the surface. If it’s deep into the wood, take a piece of steel and moisten it in a mild solution of soap and water. Rub the burned area with the steel wool in a circular motion to remove the charred wood. Then use fine sandpaper to rub the area. Apply a touch-up stain, then wax and hand-buff.
To remove scuff marks, dab some mineral spirits on a soft cloth and gently buff the scuff until it disappears.
Vinyl Floors – Care and Maintenance
Sweep and vacuum on a regular basis before dirt gets ground into the vinyl’s surface.
If dirt won’t come up with a vacuum, dampen a mop with lukewarm water, wring out well, and gently rub the dirty spot.
When you clean the floor with a detergent-type solution (Mr. Clean, Pine Sol, etc.) be sure to follow the package directions regarding the ratio of water to cleaner. Even if the product label says there’s no rinsing required, it’s a good idea to rinse with a mop dipped in clean water. Some detergent products, no matter how well they seem to rinse, will leave a slightly sticky film on the floor. This film attracts dirt and grime, which over time gets ground in and causes scratches that will dull the surface and make it hard to clean.
Never use abrasive cleaners or solvents on your vinyl floor.
Ivory soap is a great cleaner for vinyl floors: it’s gentle and rinses clean, leaving no sticky residue behind.
No-wax vinyl floors are treated with a surface coating of polyurethane, so the shine can be maintained without waxing. However, even no-wax surfaces will accumulate many tiny scratches over time. Try washing the floor well to renew the shine. If this doesn’t do the trick, you can apply a water-based self-polishing wax or a specially formulated vinyl finish.
Remove old wax once a year by soaking and scrubbing your floor with a detergent or wax remover. Use a squeegee and strip the old wax away. There are squeegees specifically made for floors; make sure you purchase one of these and not one made for windows. Scoop the stripped wax into a dustpan and throw it away immediately. When you’ve finished stripping the floor, damp-mop it with plain water and allow to dry before reapplying wax.
Vinyl Floors – Spot and Scratch Removal
Scratches in vinyl can’t be removed, but they can be hidden. Rub the scratch with a cloth moistened with floor wax. Continue until the scratch disappears.
To remove scuff marks, smear a drop of baby oil over the mark, let it sit for a few minutes, then wipe the scuff away with a soft cloth. You can also spray WD40 onto a towel and rub the mark. Whichever method you choose, be sure to rinse the floor with water afterward, as these solutions can leave the floor slippery.
Tile, Stone, and Brick Floors – Care and Maintenance
Use only products that are specifically manufactured for tile, stone, or brick.
Dried-on cleaners can cause stone and brick surfaces to chip. Thoroughly wet the floor before applying any kind of cleaner, keep the floor wet while you’re cleaning it, and rinse the area well when you’re done.
Brick floors may be dusted with vacuum cleaner dusting attachments, and freshened periodically with commercial brick cleaner.
To prevent dirty grout, it must be sealed. Use a silicone sealer designed for that purpose. If your tiles are unglazed, seal both the tile and the grout; if they’re glazed, seal only the grout
To deep-clean ceramic tiles, scrub them with an electric floor washer and commercial cleaning powder mixed with one gallon of water. Alternately, you can use a solution of ¼ cup low-sudsing detergent or 1 to 2 tablespoons of Borax. Rinse the tiles well and wipe them dry.
Never use a sponge mop for routine cleaning of ceramic-tile floors, because it will pull the dirt into the grout. Vacuum first, and then use a micro-fiber mop with warm water.
You should also avoid sponge-mopping brick or stone floors; it will snag and pull apart on the rough surfaces. Use a rag mop instead.
Don’t put rubber-backed floor mats or flowerpots – or, basically, anything that can get damp – on a tile floor. This can cause mildew underneath the object.
Tile, Stone, and Brick Floors – Spot and Stain Removal
Note: scratched tiles usually need to be completely replaced.
To clean stained grout, mix 2 tablespoons of liquid bleach with one quart of water. Apply it to the grout with an old toothbrush, let it sit for twenty minutes, mop the floor as usual, and then rinse and wipe dry. Finish by brushing on a sealer: either a commercial acrylic sealer or a more natural version – three coats of lemon oil, allowing an hour to dry between each coat.
Oil and grease stains in brick and stone can be removed, or at least lightened a bit, by spreading a layer of kitty litter on the stain. You can also use powdered cement. Either way, it must be done immediately after the stain gets on the floor – it won’t work on old stains. Let the material soak up the stain, then sweep it clean.
Ceramic tile rarely stains, but if you find yourself with a stubborn spot, apply a paste of scouring powder and water. Let it sit for five minutes. Scrub it with a non-scratching nylon pad, rinse with water, and wipe dry.
Carpeted Floors – Care and Maintenance
When choosing carpet for your home, remember that medium colors and patterned carpets will hide soil better, while lighter colored carpets disguise wear.
Vacuum frequently – vacuuming can remove up to 80% of dry soil. You should schedule this task according to how high the traffic is in a particular area of the floor. High-traffic areas should ideally be vacuumed every day. Medium- and light-traffic areas should be vacuumed once or twice a week.
A quick swipe with the vacuum will only remove surface soils. To get deeply imbedded dirt, move the vacuum very slowly over the carpet and make several passes over each area. Pay special attention to the areas in front of chairs and couches, because people scuffle their feet around as they sit, loosening soil from their shoes and grinding it into the floor.
Periodic deep-cleaning done by a professional is a great investment for prolonging the life, and the look, of your carpet. There are several cleaning methods:
o Dry extraction – a dry detergent compound is sprinkled into the carpet and absorbs soil particles, which are removed by vacuuming.
o Shampoo – a detergent solution is worked into the carpet with a rotary brush, which works the solution into foam. The foam encapsulates the dirt and, when dry, is vacuumed up.
o Steam cleaning – heated detergent solution is sprayed into the carpet, then immediately extracted – no drying with this technique until after the procedure is finished.
o Bonnet cleaning – similar to shampooing, with the addition of an absorbent pad (or “bonnet”) attached to the bottom of the cleaning machine. The pad removes the soil in the carpet.
Occasionally move your furniture around to avoid excessive crushing of the carpet pile.
When you do move the furniture, place glides beneath the legs to prevent crushing.
Use blinds or curtains to protect your carpet from prolonged periods of direct sunlight.
Carpeted Floors – Spot and Stain Removal
Clean carpets immediately after a spill – because most carpets today are “stain-resistant,” they can often be saved and look like nothing ever happened, as long as the spill is tended to right away.
If your pet has an accident on the carpet, be sure to use a cleaner that’s specially formulated for pet odors and stains; otherwise, the animal may revisit the site and do the same thing again. A protein-digesting enzyme treatment is ideal for this type of stain.
To remove cigarette and other burns, snip off the damaged fibers with scissors, then blot with a soapless cleaner such as denatured alcohol (but check first to make sure the cleaner won’t discolor the carpet!).
Remove odors from deep inside the carpet by sprinkling it liberally with baking soda, letting it stand for fifteen minutes (overnight if the odor is particularly strong), then vacuuming.
If your carpet has been indented by heavy furniture legs, hold a steam iron six inches above each spot until the carpet’s moist. Then work the fibers back and forth with the edge of a coin. For especially deep indentations, dampen a bath towel and lay it over the depression. Press the area very gently with an iron on the wool or cotton setting, then leave the towel in place until it’s dry.
When you have a spill:
Blot liquids with a dry, white cloth or paper towel. For semi-solids, remove as much as you can with a spoon. For solids, break it up as much as possible and vacuum. Don’t scrub!
Work from the edges of the spill in toward the center in order to prevent the stain from spreading.
To remove the remaining stain, work in a carpet cleaning solution (such as Resolve) that you’ve pre-tested on an inconspicuous surface to make sure that it won’t discolor your particular carpet. Blot and repeat until the stain will no longer transfer to a cloth.
Rinse with clean water to remove any remaining cleaner or stain residue.
Absorb excess moisture with paper towels.
When the area is dry, vacuum.
To patch a hole or other damage in the carpet:
Use a utility knife to cut around the damaged area. Move the carpet threads away from the cutting area so that you’re only cutting the backing, not the threads.
Get a spare piece of carpet, or find a place – such as a closet – where a missing piece will go unnoticed. Use the damaged piece that you’ve just cut out as a template, and cut a piece of the undamaged carpet of the same size.
Apply double-faced carpet tape to the perimeter of the cutout and peel the paper backing strip off the top of the tape.
Press the new patch into place. You can use a rolling pin for this.
Weigh the patch down for several hours with heavy objects, such as books, then brush the carpet nap along the seam so that it blends together.