In Fair Verona where we lay our scene is how Shakespeare begins his classic play of the two star crossed lovers, Romeo and Juliet. And Verona has been living on the reputation ever since. One cannot go to Verona without stumbling over artifacts (or supposed artifacts) of the story. Yet, Verona is more than just the venue of a teenaged romance gone very wrong.
In the sixth century BC the region of Veneto
was occupied by the Euganei and the Veneti. The region was conquered by the
Romans by the third century BC. By 89 BC, the people in Verona
were give full Roman citizenship. The famous Poet Catullus came to Rome
from Verona. In 312 A.D.
Pompeianus, General of Maxentius was defeated and killed near Verona
by Constantine. The city became
Christian in the 4th century. It became the beloved city of Theodoric,
King of the Ostrogoth kingdom in the middle of the 5th century, then a
Longobardic dukedom and the seat of Pipin, King of Italy under the Carolingian
Empire. In the 11th century Verona
was joined to the Mark of Bavaria and in 1136 it became a municipality. Having
come under the power of Ezzelino da Romano, it came under the dominion of the
Scaliger family, whose rule lasted from 1277 until 1387, when it fell into the
hands of the Viscontis.
According to the legend, popularized by Shakespeare three
centuries later, Romeo Montecchi or Montague and Juliet Capuleti meet and die in
about the year 1302. The Montecchi were Guelphs who supported the Pope; the
Capuleti were Ghibellines who supported the Holy Roman Emperor. In 1405 Verona
voluntarily offered itself to the Venetians, under whose government it remained
until 1796, when the Republic of Venice
was invaded by Napoleon. After the short-lived rule of the Kingdom
of Italy Verona was occupied by the
Austrians in 1814 and returned to the dominion of Italy
in 1866.
Verona was
damaged during the fighting between Austria
and Italy
during the First World War. During the Second World War, the city was heavily
bombed and the bridges destroyed by the Germans to impede the allied advance.
Today, Verona is an industrial town
with a population of over 300,000.
The Roman Arena
The Roman amphitheater, the Arena of Verona is one of the
greatest and most prestigious archeological monuments in Europe.
It is the third largest arena of its kind, with a seating capacity of twenty
thousand. It was built in the first century A.C. during the last years of the
emperor Augustus. From the very beginning of its existence, the Arena of Verona
was a powerful and suggestive place of entertainment, as a venue for
gladiatorial combats and other spectacles. Today the arena is used for plays,
ballets, and operas.
Piazza della Erbe
This is one of the most historic and picturesque squares in Italy.
In antiquity, it served as a Roman forum. Today, it contains many historic
buildings, sculptures with a popular and colorful market overflowing with fresh
fruits and vegetables. Every direction one looks, history crowds in on you -
the 15th century Colonna Antica, the 14th century Capitello, the 14th century
Madonna Verona fountain, and the Gardello
Tower.
Juliet’s House
One cannot visit Verona
and not visit Juliet's House and Balcony, as touristy as the place may be. It
is only a few minutes from Piazza dell'Erbe, and is best visited early in the
morning, before swamped with tour groups. Follow the signs to the small courtyard
at 27 Via Capello. There one will see a bronze statue of Juilet and the balcony
supposedly immortalized by Shakespeare. On the rare times when it is empty, the
courtyard has a romantic air, with leafy vines overgrowing the attractive
graffiti-bedecked walls. Visiting the courtyard is
free, but there is an entrance fee to the building, which has a small museum
and gift shop, though there are better ones elsewhere in the city.
La Casa di Giulietta was an inn owned by the
Capuletti family. The house dates back to the 13th century and has a brick
façade with large windows. It has been given its official title because Verona began to take advantage of tourism in the early 20th
Century. The city further capitalized on the story by arbitrarily placing Juliet's
tomb in the crypt of San Francesco al Corso. Romeo's house is supposedly on the
Via della Arche Scaligeri.
Is this really the place where Romeo first declared his star crossed love
for the fair Juliet? One might have one’s doubts, but standing in the
courtyard, looking up at the balcony, it is a romantic thing to imagine.
Church of San Francisco al Corso
It is said that the tragic story of Romeo and Juliet has its beginning and
end in this church. Here, it is said, the two star crossed lovers were married.
Here, in the cloisters it is said, lays Juliet’s tomb.
Casa di Romeo
The Casa di Romeo is a plain, 13th Century house which tradition
says that the dwelling belonged to the Montecchi, or
Montagues, though some scholars say that the house actually belonged to some
Cagnolo Nogarola. The building is not
particularly impressive but is one of the oldest in Verona. The façade is brick and still has remains of the original
battlements. One would easily miss the place without the memorial plaque.
Castelvecchio
The Castelvecchio or the Old Castle is a fairy-tale place of brick towers and turrets,
protecting the bridge behind it. It was commissioned in 1354 by the Scaligeri
warlord Cangrande II to serve the dual role of residential palace and military
stronghold. It survived centuries of occupation, first by the Visconti family, then
the Serene Republic of Venice, and then Napoléon. It was destroyed by the
Germans during World War II bombing. Its restoration was started in 1958 by the
acclaimed Venetian architect Carlos Scarpa, and it reopened in 1964. It is now
a fascinating museum with some 400 works of art.
The ground-floor rooms, displaying statues and carvings of
the Middle Ages, lead to a labyrinth of alleyways,
vaulted halls, multileveled floors, and stairs, all as architecturally fascinating
as the Venetian masterworks from the 14th to 18th centuries. Most interesting are those works by
Tintoretto, Tiepolo, Veronese, Bellini, and the Verona-born Pisanello. Don't
miss the large courtyard with the equestrian statue of the warlord Cangrande I with
a peculiar dragon's head affixed to his back (actually his armor's helmet,
removed from his head and resting behind him.
Piazza dei Signoria
Situated behind the busy Piazza Erbe, this central square is
dominated by a statue of Dante made in 1865. Its
perimeter is surrounded by historical buildings which accentuate the important
role the place has played in the city's political life. On the piazza we find
the Palazzo del Comune, the Palazzo della Prefettura, the Palazzo del
Capitanio, the Loggia del Consiglio and the Domus Nova. The buildings are
joined with elegant arches, mostly dating from the 14th century. There are wide
ranges of styles, which are nevertheless characterized by great harmony.
Visiting Verona
Verona has a
small airport, but is best accessed by rail or road from other cities in Italy.
Verona is small enough to walk
around in, especially in the Roman center of town. Bicycling is another option
that is viable.