Munich, the capital of Germany’s Bavaria region, is the ultimate beer-drinkers destination – the city is the home of the famous Oktoberfest , the world’s greatest beer festival – but even at other times of the year, Munich enjoys something of a love affair with the drink. Bavarians consume more beer per person than people in other parts of the country. Perhaps it is this beer culture that is largely responsible for Munich’s justified reputation as one of Europe’s liveliest and friendliest cities. Munich is a large city, but even the locals sometimes jokingly refer to their city as a small village.

Early Beer Production in Munich...

     Munich contains many of Germany’s finest museums, exclusive shops and historic sights. But many people still come to Munich to enjoy beer; its culture, history - and of course to drink it. The city of Munich was founded in the 12th century by Duke Henry the Lion; its German name Munchen is a derivation of ‘home of the Monks’. In fact it was the monasteries in and around the city that were originally responsible for the widespread production of beer. Successive rulers of the city actively encouraged beer production, sensing a profitable source of tax money – as well as a way of keeping their citizens happy.

     Duke Wilhelm IV introduced the purity laws for beer back in 1516 – which still apply today – forbidding the use of any ingredients other than hops, barley and water. The only exceptions to this centuries old rule are the distinctive German ‘wheat beers’ which are carbonated and often contain floating yeast particles. The variety of beers available in Munich is almost as impressive as the quality – German breweries produce an astonishing 5,000 varieties of beer. Most supermarkets and liquor stores have an impressive and wide selection of beers for sale. There are also many ‘seasonal’ beers; for example a strong dark beer may be produced during the cold winter months, a lighter beer for the summer. Over the years, breweries have come and gone in Munich and today there are just a few large breweries responsible for most of the beer output.

Munich's Beer Gardens

      One of the distinctive features of the city are the distinctive beer gardens and when the weather is mild, there is nothing more pleasant than having a drink in one of Munich’s more than 100 beer gardens. The gardens are such an important part of the city’s culture that there was a huge demonstration in the city in 1995 when the council proposed cutting back on the hours that the gardens were allowed to open.

     Many beer gardens are owned by a particular brewery who will allow you to bring in your own food – in exchange, of course for you buying lots of their product. Don’t expect the height of comfort if you visit a beer garden; seating is usually on hard wooden benches with no seat backs. During the warmer months, you can usually enjoy a drink in the shade - trees were planted long ago around most gardens as an aid to help keeping the beer in cellars cool. Strangely, for such a lively city, Munich has strict noise laws and many beer gardens close around 11pm.

     One of the most famous and picturesque beer gardens is the Chinese Tower beer garden, situated in Munich’s main park, the English Garden. It’s one of four beer gardens in the park and is an easy walk from many of Munich’s museums, making it popular with tourists as well as locals. This is supposedly the world’s largest outdoor beer garden and the site of a major festival in July (the Kocherlball) when locals dress in Victorian costume for a candlelight breakfast.

The Famous Hofbrohaus

     Apart from the beer gardens, there are the beer halls, the most well-known of which is the famous Hofbrohaus, founded by Duke Wilhelm V in 1589. This huge beer hall features a cavernous room with wooden tables, vaulted ceilings and decorative murals on the wall. It is also well known for its waitresses who somehow battle through the crowds carrying several huge mugs of beer in each hand. And what would a beer hall be without a traditional German ‘oompah’ brass band? The band has moved with the times – on most days they play rock and folk classics as well as traditional German songs. The Hofbrohaus is noisy and rowdy, but is still a unique experience especially as you will almost certainly end up sharing your table with strangers, encouraging you to sing along. Even the servings are large at the Hofbrohaus – the standard serving is a mug containing almost 2 pints. The Hofbrohaus is strictly for the tourists – most locals would rather drink at one of the quieter taverns.

     You can also find many of the rowdier beer halls and taverns in and around the Schwabing district. This rather bohemian neighborhood, near the university is home to students, artistic types and various hangers-on. Many bars in this area have a ‘happy hour’ with cheap drinks between 6 and 8pm, making it a convenient way to finish a day’s sightseeing in the city. One of the best places to drink in Schwabing is at the tiny beer garden, hidden away between apartment buildings, and belonging to the historic Max-Emanuel tavern.

The Oktoberfest - One of Europe's Great Festivals

     Munich’s love of beer culminates with one of the world’s great festivals – the Oktoberfest, which actually takes place at the end of September. (It usually ends on the first Sunday in October – hence the name Oktoberfest) The Oktoberfest started out as a small celebration accompanying a royal wedding almost 200 years ago and was originally an agricultural fair. Visitors quenched their thirst from small stalls selling beer and in 1896 the breweries capitalized on this by providing beer tents and sponsorship.

     Today, the Oktoberfest has become one of Europe’s largest and most enjoyable festivals, visited by over 6 million people each year. The crowds consume around 6 million liters of beer, as well as 90 roast oxen, 750,000 roasted chicken and 650,000 sausages. It’s rather like a state fair, complete with animals, stalls, rides and exhibits – but on a much larger scale. Plan early if you intend to visit Munich during the Oktoberfest, as accommodation can be scarce. And if you are going to ride one of the notoriously fast roller coasters that the Oktoberfest usually boasts – you may want to do it before you sample the beer!