London is without a doubt, one of the most fascinating and historic cities in the world. Over the years many famous – and infamous - London residents have left their mark on the city. Since London was founded in Roman times, people have been buried literally all over the city, often where space allowed – from ornate Victorian cemeteries to tiny graveyards hidden away between modern buildings. If you have already "done" the usual London tourist attractions, on your next visit, why not take in some of London’s fascinating cemeteries, churchyards and burial places – and discover London’s permanent residents.
London's population explosion
The population of London exploded during the 19th century when London was the capital of the huge British Empire, and the world’s largest city. London’s rapidly growing population meant that all those residents needed not only a place to live - but a place to be buried too. It was during this time that several large cemeteries were built on what were then the outskirts of London – notably Brompton, Kensal Green, Abbey Park and Highgate cemeteries. These "Victorian Valhallas" as they have been described are permanent reminders of the splendor of Victorian England – famous and wealthy ‘residents’ and elaborate graves and tombs in a park-like atmosphere.
Highgate Cemetery - a "Victorian Valhalla"
The most famous and photogenic of these sprawling Victorian cemeteries is Highgate, hidden away in the leafy and affluent suburbs of north London. Here are laid to rest many of London’s most prominent citizens including the scientist Michael Faraday, the novelist George Eliot and the postal pioneer, Rowland Hill. But Highgate’s most famous resident is the founder of modern socialism – Karl Marx – whose imposing tomb forever invites "workers of all lands to unite". Part of the appeal of Highgate is not just its famous inhabitants, but the atmosphere – much of the cemetery is overgrown and unkempt, which somehow only adds to its rather eerie quality. If Highgate Cemetery looks strangely familiar, it is not your imagination – many horror movies and ghost stories have been filmed here over the years. Highgate cemetery is also the site of a purported vampire sighting in 1967 – an incident recounted in the book "The Highgate Vampire"
The cemetery abounds with ornate and spectacular Victorian tombs – not to be missed are sections of tombs set dramatically into the side of a hill, known as the "Egyptian Avenue" and the "Circle of Lebanon". Away from these grand monuments, look for the intricate detail and rather poignant elements on some of the tombs – my favorite is a sleeping stone lion on top of the grave of a Victorian animal tamer. Highgate is divided into two sections; the western part which can be visited by free guided tours only, and the eastern part (where Marx is buried) which is accessible to all.
Another Victorian cemetery worth visiting is Abbey Park in Stoke Newington. Somewhat far from the regular tourist trail, this cemetery is known for its abundant woodland and wildlife. General Booth, founder of the salvation Army is buried here, as well as many so called "non-conformists" and dissidents from the 19th century.
Kings, Queens and Poets
One of the biggest concentrations of famous graves is at one of London’s biggest attractions – Westminster Abbey. This is one of the greatest examples of religious architecture anywhere in Europe – but Westminster Abbey is more than just a cathedral – it’s a symbol of Britain and its history. Amongst the 3000 or so graves and memorials in here are buried many of the rulers who have shaped Britain’s destiny over the last 1000 years or so. Apart from the many kings and queens buried here, the aptly named Poets’ Corner is one of the most popular spots in the abbey. Here you will find the tombs of such well known English poets and writers as Chaucer, Shelley and Dylan Thomas. In the nave at the west side of the cathedral is one of the more touching memorials – Britain’s tomb of the Unknown Soldier.
St. Martin's in the Fields
One of London’s most famous and photogenic churches, St Martin’s in the Fields sits at the corner of Trafalgar Square, in the heart of the West End. Inside are buried Nell Gwynne who was the infamous mistress of Charles II and the notorious highwayman Jack Sheppard. Many other graves here date back to the 1500s, and you can dine among them in the crypt cafe. You can also engage in a particularly English pastime here – "brass rubbing" in which you copy the carvings from tombs and graves onto huge sheets of paper, by rubbing crayon over them.
Many smaller churches are tucked away down the narrow streets and alleyways of the City, as London’s financial district is simply known. The church of St Giles Cripplegate (named after the patron saint of cripples) dates back to the 11th century and survived the great Fire of London. John Milton, the author of "Paradise Lost" was buried here in 1674; a hundred years after he was buried, someone broke into his grave and stole his teeth and what was left of his hair. St Botolphs church, also in the City, has a tiny churchyard that is still known as "postman’s park" as it once was a popular lunch spot for workers from the nearby postal headquarters.
Not far from the City is the burial ground of Bunhill Fields, the last surviving small burial ground in London. The bodies are tightly packed together here – there are an estimated 120,000 bodies here – and it gives an idea of how burial was before the large cemeteries opened. In Bunhill Fields are the graves of many of England’s "non-conformists" including William Blake and John Bunyan. The graveyard is surprisingly well stocked with oak and ash trees and it makes a peaceful place for a picnic lunch.
Some rather odd remains...
Some of London’s permanent residents are rather oddly immortalized, to say the least. In the lobby of University College, displayed in a wooden cabinet sits the mummified remains of the writer and philosopher Jeremy Bentham. Bentham stipulated in his will that his body was to be preserved and displayed after his death, and his wishes were duly carried out. Today anybody can walk in the lobby (of the Gower Street entrance) and see the rather odd figure in a wooden display case complete with cane and reading glasses. Bentham still votes at the annual board of directors meeting and he ceremoniously attends the university’s annual dinner. Some people are convinced Bentham borrows books from the university library at night – and returns them to the wrong place.
Another unique and odd skeleton belongs to that of Joseph Merrick; better known as "the Elephant Man". Merrick suffered from a horribly debilitating disease that resulted in large folds of skin on his face and body. Merrick lived a short and sad life and committed suicide at the age of 28 while in the Royal London hospital where he was confined towards the end of his life. Today, Merrick’s skeleton is still on display in the hospital but can be viewed by appointment only. The singer Michael Jackson reputedly made an offer to buy Merrick’s skeleton in 1985 – but the hospital turned down the offer
Finally, if you are catching a train from London’s busy King’s Cross station, spare a thought for what – or who – may lie under your feet. According to legend, the Celtic queen Boadicea who led an uprising against the Romans, is buried under platform 10 at King’s Cross. An interesting theory – but what would be a major archaeological discovery has so far never been proven.