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A History Lovers Guide to Palermo 
 
by Mark R. Whittington August 11, 2005

Palermo is Sicily capital and main sea port. It has been ruled, in it's history, by Phoencians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Normans, and Spaniards. It is therefore rich in historical attractions.

Somewhere between the 8th and 6th Centuries BC, the Phoenicians colonized the area of what would become Palermo in Sicily. The area had been previously inhabited by Sicans, Cretans, and Elimi. In 254, the city, then known as Paleopolis, was conquered by the Romans during the 1st Punic War. After centuries of peaceful Roman rule, the area was ravaged by barbarian invasions starting in the fifth century. The city was conquered by the Byzantine Empire, which governed it for about three centuries, until 831.

The Arabs took the city from the Byzantines and under their rule, Palermo enjoyed a period of splendor and prosperity. Art and commerce were developed immensely, the first thanks to the influence of Arab culture and the latter through intense trading with Italian ports such as Pisa, Genoa, and Venice. Palermo increased its prestige by building mosques, luxurious palaces and wonderful gardens. Normans succeeded in gaining possession of the city after a long siege in 1072. Under Norman rule, Palermo was allowed a fair amount of autonomy, while in the city, palaces and monuments that were the symbols of this crossroads of culture, such as the Cappella Palatina (Palatine Chapel) and the Cathedral - Duomo in Monreale were built. Subsequently, the city fell under the rule of the Swabians, the French, and finally the Spaniards.

Under Spanish rule, Palermo was made the capital of Sicily. Various religious orders, which were increasingly powerful, set up a large number of churches and convents. This was a period of pomp and opulence for the clergy and the aristocracy, but was also one of poverty and pestilence for the people, whose rebellions were often bloodily put down. By the 18th Century, Palermo had become part of the Kingdom of the Naples, comprising Sicily and southern Italy. There were more rebellions in the 19th Century, ending with the landing on the island by the great Italian liberator, Garibaldi, who took the city as part of his campaign to make all of Italy a new country. This was achieved by 1870 when Palermo became part of the newly formed Kingdom of Italy. Finally, in World War II, Palermo was liberated from Fascist rule by the 7th Army under General George S. Patton.

Cappella Palatina

The famous French writer Guy de Maupassant called the Cappella Palatina “the most beautiful in the world, the most surprising religious jewel ever dreamt of by man”. It is not hard to agree with his assessment. The Cappella Palatina or Palatine Chapel, located in the Palace of the Normans, contains a harmonious blend of a myriad of cultures, including Byzantine, Norman, Arabic, and Sicilian, creating a truly amazing architectural and artistic result. Located in the Palazzo dei Normanni, the Cappella Palatina is home to some of the most beautiful mosaics in the world, depicting famous scenes from the bible. The wooden ceiling styled into Arab-style stalactites and alveoli dating back to 1143 and the marble floor are just as wonderful. The Cappella Palatina served as the royal chapel for the Sicilian Norman rulers. King Roger II commissioned this place of worship in 1132, however it wasn't until 1140 that it was consecrated to Saint Peter.

Cathedral

The Cathedral of Palermo was built in 1184 by the Norman king William II in the place of a Muslim mosque. It's title is Santa Maria Assunta or Saint Mary of the Assumption. The cathedral has undergone several renovations over the centuries, which have resulted in its current Neo-Classical style. The fourteenth-century door and the Gothic-Catalan style portico are worthy of note. The treasures that are kept inside, including some precious objects and embroidery found in the tombs of the Kings and emperors must be seen.

Santa Maria degli Angeli

Dating back to the fifteenth century, this is one of the oldest churches in the city. During the late Middle Ages the Franciscans had their community here. The two wonderful Gothic entrances and the wooden sculptures, paintings and stuccoes inside the church must be admired. The nave has no aisles but has 16 chapels on the sides and a marble floor in different colors. The organ made by Raffaele della Valle dates back to the late 1500’s and is the oldest in Palermo; the pulpit is made of marble.

Catacombs of the Capuchins

These catacombs contained a preservative that helped to mummify the dead. Sicilians, from nobles to peasants were buried here in the 19th century. There are about 8,000 mummified remains buried here, the oldest corpses are from the late 16th century. In 1920, the last person was laid to rest here, a little girl almost lifelike in death. Many 19th-century Sicilians are in fine shape, considering--with eyes, hair, and even clothing fairly intact. This is not an attraction for the faint of heart or for small children.

The Sicilian Regional Gallery

This Gallery houses paintings completed in Sicily between the 11th and the 17th centuries, Arabic inlaid-wood objects, Moorish pottery and some marble sculptures. The gallery has a wonderful collection of Sicilian sculpture and paintings from the 13th to the 18th centuries. The main floor has most of the sculptures on display and as one wanders through the former chapel one will see the gallery’s most famous work, dating from 1449, the “Triumph of the Death”, which has sometimes been credited to Pisanello. There is also on display the white-marble bust of Eleanara di Aragona by Francesco Laurana, his masterpiece, which he created in the 15th century.

Regional Archaeological Museum

This Museum is located in the ex-abbey of the Philippine Monks and is home to a large number of artifacts from the whole of Sicily. It includes archaeological finds from the Etruscan, Phoenician and Greek eras. These important collections are testimony of Sicilian art, from prehistoric times to the late Roman period. Especially interesting pieces in this small but excellent collection are the examples of prehistoric cave drawings and a marvelously reconstructed Doric frieze from the Greek temple at Selinunte. The frieze reveals the high level of artistic culture attained by the Greek colonists in Sicily some 2,500 years ago.

Palace of the Normans

The history of the palace goes back to the 9th century during the time of Arab rule, but probably goes back even further. The Arabs built the palace on an older Roman and Punic fortress. Over time it was abandoned by the Arabs, and the conquering Normans restored it into a sumptuous residence. The Normans came and went, and by the mid-16th century the palace was in serious decay until discovered anew by Spanish viceroys, who in 1555 began its rescue and once again turned it into a royal residence. Today it is the seat of Sicily's semi-autonomous regional government.

One first enters the Salone d'Ercole, the chamber of the Sicilian Parliament. The salon is named for the mammoth frescoes, created by Giuseppe Velasquez in the 19th century, depicting the Twelve Labours of Hercules. Only six panels are visible as the others are concealed behind the gallery. The most dramatic scene is the slaying of the multi-headed Hydra of Lerna. You definitely won't want to adopt the three-headed dog, Cerberus, as your pet.

The Sala di Ruggero II is where King Roger himself slept. It's decorated with 12th-century mosaics. Look for depictions of the peacock; it was said, symbolically, that the flesh of the peacock would never rot for eternity. Another charming room is the Hall of Mirrors, sometimes called the "Yellow Hall" because of all its stunning candelabra.

Via Romana del Casale

This magnificent villa is one of the largest dwellings of its kind to have survived from the days of the Romans. Its 40 rooms are covered with 122,063 square feet of some of the greatest, most magnificent mosaics in Western Europe. It is obvious that a wealthy patrician built this mansion, perhaps a Roman Emperor. The exact date of the villa's construction is hard to ascertain, perhaps the end of the 3rd century A.D. or the beginning of the 4th century. The villa was destroyed by fire in the 12th century and over the years was buried in mudslides. Parts of the villa were unearthed in 1881. Many of the mansion's walls are still standing, but most visitors come to see the mosaics on the floors and the surviving wall paintings. Many of the mosaic scenes are mythological and, since this was a hunting lodge, most of the scenes depict the pursuit of wild animals.

Among the best interesting mosaics are the splendid Peristylium mosaic, which can be viewed on all sides of the portico, a romp of birds, plants, wild animals, and more domesticated creatures such as horses. Also not to be missed are mosaics depicting wild animals such as rhinos and elephants, a mosaic depicting a chariot race at the Circus Maximus in Rome, a mosaic depicting several young girls in what seems to be bikinis engaged in exercise, a depicting of the Labors of Hercules, and a risqué work depicting a young man in the arms of a tender seductress.

Visiting Palermo

Palermo is serviced by an international airport and is also accessible by bus from other parts of Sicily. Traffic within the city is, as with other places in Italy, somewhat chaotic, but many attractions are within walking distance and there is a bus system.


 




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