A History of Kyoto

Imperial Kyoto

Although the first recorded evidence of human habitation in Japan dates back to about 10,000 BC, the Kyoto basin was not settled until the 7th century. Kyoto became home to the Hata clan from Korea and in 603 the Hata established Koryu-ji as their family temple in what is now Kyoto's Uzumasa District. In 784 the Imperial government moved to Nagaoka, a suburb of Kyoto, and 10 years later shifted again to present-day Kyoto, where it remained until 1868.

The city was laid out according in the traditional Chinese manner in a grid pattern adopted from the Tang dynasty capital Chang'an, now Xi'an, in mainland China. Over the next four centuries the city went beyond its role as a political hub and became Japan's cultural and commercial center as well. Samurai families moved into Kyoto where they entered the court, causing conflicts between rival military clans, civil wars and strife. This was the beginning of the Shogun feudal system, where a succession of samurai families ruled the country until imperial power was restored in 1868.

Although Kyoto was home to the Japanese imperial family for almost 1100 years, it was not always the focus of Japanese political power. For about 150 years from 1185, Kamakura, near present-day Tokyo, was the political capital, and from 1600 to 1868 the Tokugawa Shogunate ruled Japan from Edo, now Tokyo. Despite the decline of the political power of the court, Kyoto continued to prosper economically. In the late 13th Century, the Mongols invaded, but were defeated with the help of a typhoon, called the kamakazi or divine wind, which destroyed their fleet. Victory, however, was short-lived for the Kamakura government, which fell to a rebellion led by Emperor Go-Daigo, leading to the restoration of political authority in Kyoto. The Ashikaga period was marked by flourishing arts and the construction of beautiful temples and gardens, many still standing today. Despite this cultural flowering, the rest of the country was slowly slipping into civil chaos as feudal lords and barons fought for territory. In 1467 a feudal argument ignited the most ferocious battle in Kyoto's history. The 90,000-strong Yamana army faced off against the 100,000 soldiers of the Hosokawa. The 10-year Onin war was fought mostly in the center of Kyoto, destroying most of the city and scattering the population. The war marked the rapid decline of the Ashikaga family, to be replaced by the chaotic Warring States period until 1568.

Shogunate Kyoto

Power was seized in 1568 by Oda Nobunaga, who used his military genius to begin a program of pacification and unification throughout central Japan. Although he killed himself after being betrayed by his top general, his program was continued by others and, by 1590, the whole country fell under the rule of Hideyoshi. Developing grandiose plans, Hideyoshi set off to defeat Korea and China unsuccessfully in 1593 and fatally to himself in 1598. At the time of his death, Hideyoshi had completely rebuilt Kyoto, which had a swelling population of 500,000 people. Hideyoshi's heir lost support and a rival government was set up at Edo while the emperor and the court exercised nominal authority in Kyoto.

In Edo, the Tokugawa family virtually rebuilt society, imposing a strict hierarchical social structure and enforcing international seclusion. For the next two dcenturies, Japan was isolated from the outside world. By the mid-19th century, international pressure mounted on Japan to rejoin the world, with the arrival of an American fleet demanding diplomatic and trade agreements. In Kyoto, a push to increase the power of the shogun led to a wave of antigovernment sentiment and a state of internal unrest.

Imperial Restoration

In 1868 the shogun resigned and Japan was again reunified and began to emerge from its isolation. Kyoto suffered a considerable loss of status and population with the relocation of the capital to Edo after over 1000 years. Kyoto began to increase its status as a center of culture and learning. By 1900 the city was again pre-eminent in Japan in education, culture and the arts, as well as excelling in industry. The city boasted an electricity system, water system, transport network and hydroelectric power generation.

In 1926 Emperor Hirohito took the throne, and a rising tide of nationalism coincided with the world depression and internal political strife. By 1940 Japan was at war with China, having invaded Manchuria in 1931, and had signed treaties with Italy and Germany. Japan attacked the United States by bombing Pearl Harbor and attempted to conquer large parts of the Pacific and Asia. The United States and its allies defeated Japan after a three and a half year war, cumulating in the atomic bombing of Hiroshima and Nagasaki.

Post War Kyoto

Japan had suffered greatly by the time of their unconditional surrender in 1945, although Kyoto had escaped the devastation of mass-bombings and atomic attack. The Kyoto Revival Plan was drafted in 1945, and by 1949 the city's university had already produced the first in a long line of Nobel Prize winners. By the late 1950s, Japan's economic miracle had made Kyoto an international hub of business and culture. Kyoto rode high on the back of technology and tourism through the 1970s and '80s. With the economic slowdown that started in Japan in 1989, Kyoto again suffered. Subsequent recovery has been slow but steady.

Kyoto Imperial Palace

Until the restoration of 1868, this was the residence of the Japanese Imperial family. The palace burnt down and was moved around the city several times over the centuries. The present reconstruction dates from 1855. The palace complex is enclosed by a long wall and consists of several gates, halls and gardens. The Kyoto Imperial Palace is rectangular in shape, about 450m north-south and 250m east-west, covering an area of approximately 110,000 square meters. The Shishinden or Ceremonial Hall is the main building. The Seiryoden, the Kogosho, and several other structures are also located here. To the south of the Shishinden is the Dan-tei or Courtyard of white sand. On its three sides is a white walled corridor with bright vermilion pillars.

The palace can be visited only on guided tours held by the Imperial Household Agency. In order to join a tour, you need to apply for permission in advance with your passport at the agency's office in the Kyoto Imperial Park.

Nijo Castle

Nijo Castle was built by Tukugawa Ieyasu as his Kyoto residence around 1600. The palace building now known as Ninomaru or secondary castle was completed in 1603 and enlarged by Ieyasu's grandson Iemitsu. It contains decorated sliding doors and floors that squeak like nightingales when someone walks on them as a security measure against intruders. Iemitsu also added the Honmaru or main castle including a five storied castle tower, walls, and a moat. The original, however, was destroyed by fire in the 18th Century and the present structure was moved here from the imperial palace in 1893.

Following the wall around will bring the visitor to the Kara Mon or Chinese Gate which is the entrance into the Ninomaru Palace. Decorated by cranes, flowers, and butterflies on the outer panels and Chinese tigers, lions and a dragon on the inner panels this gate is a splendid sight. The main complex of Ninomaru Palace is a group of five buildings staggering to the northwest. The first group of buildings is the Carriage Porch or Karuma Yose followed by the Tozamurai. It was in this building that visitors would wait for an audience with the shogun. The next building is called Shikidai, followed by Ohiroma. In Ohiroma there are several mannequins in traditional garb, sitting in on an audience with the shogun. The next building, the Kuroshoin, is connected to Ohiroma by a long chamber and was reserved for the friends and family of the shogun. The last building, Shiro-shoin, was the shogun's residence, where only his wives and concubines were allowed. The further one made it into the compound the more distinguished and high ranking they were. All of the buildings, except the Shiro-shoin, have paintings that use brilliant colors and heavy amounts of gilt. Tigers, birds, flowers, and massive trees are some of the themes displayed in the paintings. On the other hand, the paintings in the shogun's living quarters are more subdued and feature mountain and water scenes in softer shades than the rest of the palace.

The Golden Pavilion

Golden Pavilion is a popular name for one of the main buildings of the Rokuon-ji Temple. In the 1220’s it was the comfortable villa of Kintsune Saionji. The elegant, harmonious building consists of three types of architecture. The 1st floor is Shinden-zukuri, the palace style. It is named Ho-sui-in. The 2nd floor is Buke-zukuri, the style of the samurai house and is called Cho-on-do. The 3rd floor is Karayo style or Zen temple style. It is called Kukkyo-cho. Both the 2nd and 3rd floors are covered with gold-leaf on Japanese lacquer. The roof, upon which the Chinese phoenix settles, is thatched with shingles.

Nearby is the Kyoko-chi or Mirror pond. The pond contains many large and small islands. Climbing a few steps, you stand at the edge of another small pond, An-min-taku. The small stone pagoda on the island is called Hakuja-no-tsuka or the mound in memory of the white snake. There is a classic tea house called Sekka-tei. In Sekka-tei there is a celebrated pillar made of a nandin. On the way to the exit of the temple, one will find a small Fudodo shrine where the stone Fudo-myoc (Acara) is enshrined as a guardian.

Nanzen-ji Temple

This temple has a distinctive two-story entrance gate and aqueduct. Walking around the temple complex and along the aqueduct is free, but there are three regions of Nanzenji that one can pay to enter. The Sanmon - the two-story main gate to Nanzenji Temple charges offers pleasant views over the surrounding area of the city. The Nanzen-in Zen Temple is a small, but relaxing temple and moss garden behind the aqueduct, dating back to the 13th century. It is worth it if one has a particular interest in Zen Buddhism. The Hojo or the abbot's quarters is a more interesting building, with a small raked gravel garden and some impressive paintings on the sliding doors of the buildings.

Kiyomizu Temple

This temple complex contains several interesting attractions. The main hall’s wooden veranda is supported by hundreds of pillars and offers incredible views over the city. Jishu-jinja, the love-themed shrine sells countless charms to help one snag the object of your love. It features two "love stones" positioned around 18m apart which the lovelorn must walk between with eyes closed to confirm their loved one's affection. Otowa-no-taki the temple's waterfall gives the temple its name. Kiyomizu literally means 'pure water'. Visitors stand beneath the waterfall, and collect water to drink by holding out little tin cups.

Daitokuji Temple

A small and understated temple complex, boasting several small, secluded sub temples. Daitokuji is the quietest of the temples in north-western Kyoto. If one visits it at the start of the day, one could virtually have it to oneself. Eight of the twenty-four sub temples open to the public, and each charges an admission fee. The highlight of the sub temples is Daisen-in, located on the northern side of the temple complex, which has a beautiful Zen garden. Koto-in is particularly noted for its maple trees, which are particularly beautiful in the autumn.

Ryōan-ji Temple

The temple is famous for its Zen garden, which is considered to be one of the most notable examples of the dry-landscape style. Some say it is the quintessence of Zen art, and perhaps the single greatest masterpiece of Japanese culture. The garden is surrounded by low walls and an austere arrangement of fifteen rocks sits on a bed of white gravel. That's it: no trees, no hills, no ponds, and no running water. Its minimalism is supposed to inspire contemplation, introspection, and deliberation on the transience of our own humanity.

Behind the simple temple that overlooks the rock garden is a stone washbasin called Tsukubai said to have been contributed by Tokugawa Mitsukuni in the 17th century. It bears a simple four-character inscription which reads, "I learn only to be contented". The rest of the grounds are worth a look too, particularly the large pond.

Visiting Kyoto

There is now airport at Kyoto, though the Osaka airport is within easy reach of the city Kyotois accessible from Tokyo by high speed train. There are slower trains and busses available as well. Kyoto has an efficient mass transit system with two subway lines and a very dense bus system.