Moscow is one of the most well known, yet in a strange way, mysterious national capitals in the world. Emerging from the darkness of Soviet rule, the city is a treasure house of history dating back from before the formation of the Russian state.
The first historical reference to Moscow
dates from 1147 when it was a small, obscure town in a small province. In 1156, Prince Yury Dolgoruky built a wooden wall and a moat around the city. Later the Mongols
burned the city to the ground and killed its inhabitants, but Moscow
recovered and became the capital of an independent principality.
In 1300 Moscow was ruled by Daniil Aleksandrovich, the son of Alexander
Nevsky and a member of the Rurik Dynasty.
Its favorable position on the headwaters of the Volga River
contributed to its steady expansion. Moscow
was also stable and prosperous for many years and attracted a large numbers of
immigrants from across Russia.
By 1304 Yury of
Moscow contested with Mikhail of
Tver for the throne of the principality of Vladimir.
Ivan I
eventually defeated Tver
to become the ruler of Vladimir,
and the sole collector of taxes for the Mongolrulers.
By paying high tribute, Ivan won an important concession from the Khan. Unlike other
principalities, Moscow was not
divided among his sons, but was passed intact to his eldest.
When the growth of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania began to threaten
all of Russia,
the Khan strengthened Moscow to
counterbalance Lithuania,
allowing it to become one of the most powerful cities in Russia.
In 1380,
Prince Dmitry Donskoy of Moscow
led a united Russian army in a decisive victory over the Mongols in the Battle of Kulikov. After that Moscow
took the leading role in liberating Russia
from Mongol domination. In 1480 Ivan III finally broken the Russians free
from Tatar rule. Moscow became the
capital of an empire which would eventually encompass all of Russia
and Siberia,
and parts of many other lands.
The tyranny of later Tsars, such as Ivan the
Terrible, led to a decay of the state, even as the empire was
expanding. In 1571
the Tatars
from the Crimean Khanate seized and burned Moscow.
From 1610
through 1612
troops of the Polish-Lithuanian Kingdom
occupied Moscow, as its ruler Sigismund III tried to usurp the Russian
throne. In 1612,
the people of Nizhny Novgorod and other Russian cities rose
against the Polish occupiers, besieged the Kremlin, and finally killed the
Polish troops. In 1613,
an assembly of the Empire elected Michael Romanov tsar, thus establishing the Romanov
dynasty.
Moscow ceased to be Russia's
capital when in 1703 Tsar Peter the
Great constructed St. Petersburg on the Baltic coast as the new capital. When Napoleon invaded in 1812, the Moscovites
evacuated and burned the city on September 14 as Napoleon's forces were approaching. Napoleon's army, plagued by hunger,
cold, and poor supply lines, retreated. Eventually, Russian armies entered Paris,
along with other allies, to put an end to Napoleon’s rule. Throughout the rest
of the 19th Century, Russia
enjoyed steady expansion, while lagging behind socially and technologically the
rest of Europe.
In January 1905,
the office of the City Governor, or Mayor, was officially
introduced in Moscow, and Aleksandr Adrianov became Moscow's
first official mayor. Following the success of the Russian revolution in 1917 Lenin, fearing possible
foreign invasion, moved the capital from St. Petersburg back to Moscow on March 5 1918.
As a vital junction of USSR
railroads and supply lines, Moscow,
along with Leningrad and Kiev, was designated one
of the three strategic targets of a German offensive in 1941. In November 1941,
the German Army
Group Center
was stopped at the outskirts of the city and then driven off during Battle of
Moscow.
Moscow was the
scene of a last ditch attempted coup by communist hardliners in 1991, who took
then General Secretary Mikhail Gorbachev into custody. The coup was put down by
Russian leader Boris Yeltsin with the help of loyal army troops and a popular
uprising. The Soviet Union collapsed soon after.
Currently Moscow is the capital of
the Russian Federation,
a country attempting to define a new role in the post Cold War world.
The Kremlin
The Kremlin is oldest part of Moscow,
dating back to the city’s foundation in 1147, and situated at the very heart of
the city on top of a hill. It is a fortress surrounded by a thick red wall
interspersed with 20 towers. The fortress complex consists of a number of
glittring, golden-domed churches and palaces, museums, residences, offices,
assembly halls and monuments. It was a royal residence during Tsarist rule and
from 1918 to 1991, the seat of the Communist government.
Cathedral Square is the religious center of Moscow,
the historic heart of the Kremlin, and is home to a number of churches. The
Annunciation Cathedral was set aside for the private use of the Tsar and his
family and contains beautifully painted murals and icons on the interior walls.
It also has nine, glittering copper-gilt domes.
The throne of Ivan the Terrible can be found in the Cathedral of the
Assumption, which was used for the coronation of Tsars. Most of the leaders of
the Russian Orthodox Church were buried here and their tombs line the walls of
the spacious, richly colored interior. The zakomary or
arched gables are a visual extension of the vaulting within the cathedral.
The Belfry of Ivan the Great is the tallest structure within
the Kremlin walls and a visible city landmark. At its foot lies the world’s
biggest bell, at 200 tons, broken in a fall from its bell tower in 1701, and
nearby is the world’s largest cannon, at 40 tons, the Tsar Cannon. Neither object has ever been used for its
intended purpose.
Also within the Kremlin is the Armory Palace, the richest
and oldest museum housing a fantastic collection of treasures gathered over the
years by the church and Russian state, including jewel-studded coronation
capes, thrones encrusted with diamonds, royal coaches and sleighs and the
renowned jeweled Fabergé Easter eggs, each containing an exquisitely detailed
miniature object of precious metal inside. The Diamond Fund Exhibition in the
same building contains the 180-carat diamond given to Catherine the Great by
Count Orlov.
Red Square
Red Square is a dramatic open cobbled
space in the center of Moscow. It
was originally the city’s market place that also served as a public gathering
place to celebrate festivals, listen to government announcements or to
witness executions, especially common during the reign of Ivan the Terrible.
The Soviet state turned it into a memorial cemetery, and constructed Lenin’s
Mausoleum to one side. A crystal casket containing the preserved body of the
founder of the Soviet Union is still open to public
viewing today. The communist government destroyed several ancient buildings
around Red Square, including the Resurrection Gate and
chapel, to make space for and to allow easy tank access to the demonstrations
and military parades that frequented the area. The current Resurrection Gate
and chapel are replicas that were built in the 1990s. The
square is dominated by the walls and towers of the Kremlin on one side and the
façade of the GUM department store on the other. The most impressive and
historic parade that occurred in the square involved the gathering of thousands
of Russian soldiers ready to march to war against the Nazis in 1941. The word ‘red’
doesn’t apply to the color of the brickwork, neither is it a reference to
communism. It was likely a reference to the executions that took place in the
square.
Bolshoi Theater
Moscow's oldest
theater, the Bolshoi, dates from 1824 and is Russia's
most famous theater, with its world-renowned opera and ballet companies.
Completely rebuilt after a fire in 1856, the grand building is a masterpiece of
Russian neoclassicism architecture, including an eight-columned entrance porch
topped by a horse-drawn chariot of Apollo, patron of the arts. The glittering
five-tiered interior is richly adorned with red velvet furnishings, gold
decoration and chandeliers. The auditorium is the largest in the world. The
Bolshoi Theatre has hosted some of the world's most celebrated premieres and
performers, including Swan Lake,
Spartacus and concerts by Richard Wagner. An evening performance at the Bolshoi Opera and Ballet Theatre
constitutes one of Moscow's best
nights out on the town.
St. Basil’s Cathedral
St Basil’s Cathedral with its multicolored domes is the most
famous image of Russia,
standing on the edge of Moscow’s Red
Square. Its striking design was commissioned by Ivan the Terrible
to commemorate his victorious military campaign against the Tartar Mongols at Kazan
in 1552. Legend has it that Ivan was so overwhelmed by its beauty that he had
the architect blinded to prevent him from creating anything to rival it. The
cathedral comprises a central chapel surrounded by eight red brick tower-like
chapels, each crowned with a different colored and uniquely patterned
onion-shaped dome. The church escaped demolition many times during the city’s
turbulent history. Upon the beginning of the Soviet regime the cathedral was
closed and later turned into a museum. The interior is a dimly lit labyrinth of
corridors and delicately decorated chapels, one of them housing a priceless
16th century screen decorated with icons that shields the inner sanctuary.
Tretyakov Gallery
The Tretyakov Gallery houses a collection of some of the
great masterpieces of traditional Russian art from before the Revolution. It
also has the world’s finest collection of Russian icons from the 11th to the
17th centuries. The most famous of these icons is the
12th-century Vladimir Virgin. There are
also works by Theophanes the Greek, Dionysius and Andrey Rublyov, some of Russia’s greatest icon painters. The gallery’s collection of
paintings, graphics and sculptures covers Russian art from the 18th to the 20th
century. The gallery was named after its founder, Pavel Tretyakov, an art collector
who donated about 2,000 works of art from his private collection to the city of
Moscow, forming the basis of the
collection to which state acquisitions were later added. He also donated his
own house, which became the original site of the art gallery.
Novodevichy
Monastery
The Novedevichy Monastery was founded
in 1524 by Grand Prince Vassily III. However the present towers and walls were
built between 1685 and 1687. The Monastery contains the Sobor Smolensk
Bogomateri or Cathedral of the Virgin of Smolensk, with a distinctive bell
tower dating from 1690. The cathedral itself was built in 1525 and contains
16th-century frescoes, as well as a magnificent late 17th-century iconostasis.
There is a convent that was a place of exile for noblewomen who were either in
mourning or in disfavor, including Sophia, Peter the Great’s sister, who
instigated a coup against him from here in 1698. The adjacent Novodevichy
Cemetery contains the graves of distinguished Muscovites,
including Nikita Krushchev, Nikolai Gogol, Sergei Prokofiev and Anton Chekhov.
Visiting Moscow
Coming in from an overseas flight, Sheremetevo-2 is the
airport one flies into. There are also four airports to handle travel to
domestic destinations and the ex-Soviet states. There's a bus network with
comfy-enough buses that run to places within about a 435mi radius of the city. Moscow
also has 9 main rail stations, and one can board trains to most parts of Russia
and Europe as well as China
and Mongolia.
The Moscow Metro system is not only a great way to get
around the city, but is an attraction in and of itself. Up
and running just four years after building started in 1931, the Metro is one of
the Soviet regime’s few artistic accomplishments. The stations have unique
designs are often palatial and provide an introduction to the development of
Soviet art and architecture over more than half a century. Mayakovskaya
Station has a central hall with a ceiling of Socialist Realist mosaics
supported by stainless steel and red marble columns. In Revolyutsii
ploshchad, bronze sculptures of Red Army soldiers hold up the arches in the
passageways. Komsomolskaya, the busiest station in Moscow, has
upper walk-through galleries and offers a Russian history lesson in the mosaics
near the Circle Line platforms.