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A History Lovers Guide to Valencia 
 
by Mark R. Whittington August 24, 2005

Valencia, in Spain, is best known as the city El Cid, the great Spanish leader, took from the Muslims in the late 11th Century. However, the city changed hands several times before finally falling to Christiandom for the last time in the 13th Century. As a result, Valencia is has a nice, old city filled with both Christian and Moorish styles of attractions.

Long before the coming of the Romans to Spain, the territory of what is now Valencia was inhabited by Iberian peoples. Greeks, Romans, Visigoths and then Muslims followed to add their cultures to the land. According to the Roman historian Livy, Roman soldiers occupied the site of Valencia in 138 BC. Pompey the Great partly destroyed the city in 75 BC during his campaign against the armies of the rebel leader Quintus Sertorius. Valencia remained under Roman control until AD 413, when it was captured by the Visigoths. The Moors took it from the Visigoths in 714, and in 1021 they made it the capital of the independent kingdom of Valencia. Except for a short lived conquest by El Cid in 1094, the population of this part of the Peninsula was fundamentally Muslim by the early Middle Ages. The city later was recaptured for Islam by the Almoravids in 1102.

The basic origin of Valencia as a national community with a political identity of its own goes back to the year 1238, when King James I of Aragon conquered the city of Valencia. However, he did not annex it to the kingdom of Aragon or Catalunya, but made it into an autonomous kingdom within the group of States under his rule. Despite the predominantly Catalan nature of the conquest, Valencia is a self-governing State with an identity of its own and a special parliament and institutions.

During the 15th and 16th centuries, Valencia became one of the major economic powers on the Mediterranean seaboard. It was the time of the Valencian siglo de oro or Golden Age, which was characterized by splendor in the arts at the hands of Joanot Martorell, author of Tirant lo Blanc, the first modern European novel, Ausias March, Roig de Corella, Isabel de Villena, Jordi de Sant Jordi and Jaume Roig, among others.

At the beginning of the 18th century, in the War of Succession, the Valencian people took the side of the Archduke of Austria while most of the nobility were in favor of Philip V. The success of the latter brought about the abolition of local charters and the end of the region's traditional autonomy. After the fall of Madrid to Franco in the Spanish Civil War, the capital of the Republic was moved to Valencia. The city suffered from the blockade and siege by Franco’s forces. The postwar period was hard for Valencians. During the Franco years, speaking or teaching Valencian was prohibited; using the language at all was subject to criminal penalties. When democracy was restored, the Land of Valencia was given its present Autonomous Statutes in 1982, with the city as its capital.

Museo de Bellas Artes

The Museo de Bellas Artes, located on the northern side of the former riverbed of the Río Turia, ranks among Spain's best, with works by El Greco, Goya, Velázquez, Ribera, Ribalta and artists such as Sorolla and Pinazo of the Valencian impressionist school. The sculpture pavilion displays some ancient artifacts and more modern art.

Museo Nacional de Cerámica

The baroque style Palacio del Marqués de Dos Aguas is one of Spain's most beautiful palaces.It's a brilliant example of rococo architecture with a wonderful Churrigueresque façade that looks like running water. The imposing alabaster main entrance was designed by Hipólito Rovira and sculpted by Ignacio Vergara. The original building dates from the 16th century although it was completely renovated during the 18th. Beyond the main entrance, the Museo Nacional de Cerámica displays ceramics from around the world, specializing in the renowned local production centers of Manises, Alcora and Paterna.

Torres de Serranos & Torres de Quart

These two imposing, twin-towered stone gates are all that remain of the old city walls. Construction on these large guard towers was finished in 1391. They offer a perfect view of the old riverbed of the Turia River and its surroundings. From an architectural point of view, they are both pentagon-shaped, with a gallery between the two, decorated with gothic designs on the borders. On the top there are parapets, while around the entire structure, one can see the remains of the moat. The Tottes de Serranos was once the main exit to Barcelona and the north. Further west, the 15th-century Torres de Quart faced towards Madrid. One can still see pockmarks dating from the 19th-century Napoleonic invasion.

The Cathedral

The Cathedral was built upon the site of the first Roman temple in the city. However, the Cathedral used to be a mosque, but when El Cid conquered the city, it became a Roman Catholic cathedral. Later the city was retaken by the Muslims, and the cathedral became again a mosque until the Christian king, James I reconquered Valencia. It has been the main Cathedral in Valencia to this day.

The Cathedral is mainly of early gothic style, though some parts of it were added in later eras. The cathedral's three doors reflect the mixture of styles. The Palau Door is archaic romanesque mixed with primitive Gothic. The Door of the Apostles is pure Gothic. The Hierros Door is baroque. The main chapel, Capilla Mayor, is in baroque style, while the two lateral chapels are neoclassic. The octagonal bell-tower, called Miguelete, is the landmark of the city. From there one has a great view of the entire city. In the Capitulary one can see what the church claims is the Holy Grail, of which Jesus Christ and the Apostles are said to have drunk during the Last Supper.

The Cathedral houses a museum, founded in 1761. The museum's collection consists primarily of religious wooden images, paintings, and other sacred objects and silver work. Among these pieces is a notable collection of works from the 14th century, pieces by Jacomart, the two Hernandos, Juan de Juanes, and the most well-known, two paintings by Goya, The Farewell to Saint Francis of Borja, and the Condemned.

Basilica of the Virgen de los Desamparados

The basilica is the site of the statue of the namesake virgin of the basilica, also known as the Virgin of the Abandoned Ones. The basilica, attached to the Cathedral by a magnificent renaissance archway, competes with the cathedral in its ability to attract the faithful. It is the sanctuary of the Geperudeta or the Little Hunchback, the virgin who is known for her efforts to protect the less fortunate. The statue itself is in the gothic style, with a Byzantine face, a long head of hair. It is adorned by numerous jewels donated by the faithful. The basilica was constructed between 1652 and 1667 by Diego Martínez Ponce de Urruana.

Visiting Valencia

The quickest way to get to Valencia is by air, though the city is also served by rail and road. The narrow streets of the Old City are best explored on foot and most of the main sights are clustered within easy walking distance of each other. Public transportation is efficient and easy to use.


 




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