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A History Lovers Guide to Sorrento 
 
by Mark R. Whittington August 25, 2005

Sorrento, on the Bay of Naples, near Mount Vesuvius, is not only a fine resort town, near numerous beaches and nature reserves, but is filled with historical attractions.

The earliest evidence of human settlement in the Sorrento Peninsula suggests Greek and Phoenician occupancy. However area soon became a Roman colony, until the final collapse of the Empire. During the Middle Ages, around the 9th century AD, Sorrento managed to free herself from outside control and establish the Duchy of Sorrento. The Duchy of Sorrento covered the whole of the peninsula, and was soon became a prosperous economy based on ship chandlery, and the sale and production of citrus fruits and wine. Around 1100, the Duchy lost its independence to become a protectorate of Normandy, with the advantage of receiving protection against attacks from pirates and the Lombards.

In 1544 the poet Torquato Tasso, was born in Sorrento. He was the renowned author of Jerusalem Delivered and other poems. In 1558 Sorrento suffered a violent invasion by the Turks. The city was sacked and the population was decimated.

At around the start of the 18th century, after a period of bitter strife between the peasant population and rich landowners, Sorrento emerged as a popular tourist resort, much loved by visitors from all over the world for its mild climate and flourishing countryside. By 1800, Sorrento's economy was based primarily on tourism. Over the years Sorrento has been the favorite destination of such luminaries of European culture as Lord Byron, Keats, Goethe, Dickens, Wagner, Ibsen and Nietzsche. At the start of the 20th century, agriculture was given a second wind, thanks to intensive cultivation of citrus fruits, which were exported throughout the Italian peninsula and overseas.

Basilica di San Antonino

This basilica was built around the 10th century in honor of Saint Anthony, patron saint of navigators and of the city of Sorrento. He was born in Campagna, a town near Salerno, came to Sorrento and here died on 15 February 471. The crypt holds the tomb of Saint Anthony, where thousands of votive offerings have been made by sailors. On the right side of the Church one can admire a splendid portal of the 11th century with an architrave supported by Corinthian capitals of the Roman era. On the inside of the Church are valuable paintings of Giovanni Bernardo Lama and the representation of the siege of Sorrento in 1648, a splendid painting by Giacomo Del Po. Even the Vestry of the Church contains two precious treasures: the fragments of an antique and elaborated majorica pavement and a beautiful Neapolitan Christmas crib of the 17th century, with statues made by the most famous sculptors of the school of Sammartino. The clothes of the shepherds are made of precious fabrics enriched by valuable laces. In the lobby of the Church two whale ribs are posted as a memento of the most famous miracle attributed to the patron Saint of Sorrento. It is narrated, in fact, that a whale had swallowed a child and that the Saint liberated the young boy drawing him safe and sound from the mouth of the whale. As testimony of this wonderful miracle, the people of Sorrento placed these two whale bones at the entrance of the Basilica in honor of the Saint.

Sorrento Cathedral

Built around the 11th century, Sorrento Cathedral houses some marvelous frescoes by Neapolitan painters. There is a marble portal, built around 1474, in Renaissance style surmounted by the Aragonese escutcheon. The church houses an archbishop throne in fine marble built around 1573, and a wooden marquetry work of Sorrentine craftsmen and of the Neapolintan school of the 1700s. The triple-tiered bell tower rests on an archway into which three classical columns and a number of other fragments have been set. The bell tower is home to an ancient ceramic clock.

Il Chiostro di San Francisco

This is a historic triptych set in a tuff wall known in Peninsula as a conventual complex of San Francesco d'Assisi. The elements which characterize the triptych are the Church, the Monastery and the Cloister.

The Church dates back to the 14th century and is a triumph of baroque style with rich stucco decorations. It contains numerous treasures, like a majestic wooden main door of the 1500's, two frescoes portraying Sant'Antonio of Padova and San Giacomo and a splendid wooden statue of San Francesco with Christ Crucified. In 1992, on the outside of the Church, a bronze statue representing San Francesco was placed, created by the sculptor Alfiero Nena.

The Monastery is nearby the church, founded in the 7th century, given to the Franciscan monks in the 14th century. The Cloister is a perfect fusion of different architectural styles. On two sides of the porch are crossed tuff arches, stylistic expression of the late 14th Century. On the other two sides are impressive round arches on octagonal pillars. One will notice the presence of spoils from pagan temples, skillfully integrated architecturally and used as corner pillars. During the summer, the Cloister is the venue for arts exhibitions and music concerts.

Correale di Terranova Museum

In this fascinating museum one can find paintings by 17th and 18th century Neapolitan artists, inlaid furniture, Capodimonte majolica and porcelain ware, lacework. There is also an assortment of Greek and Roman artifacts. The palazzo where the museum is located has an outstanding view of the nearby Gulf of Naples.

The twenty room museum is more like a town house or villa than a typical museum with miles and miles of corridors. The archeological section with Greek and Roman artifacts found on Sorrentine territory as well as remains from the antique Cathedral of St. Renato is on the ground floor. On the same floor is a room dedicated to Tasso which holds his precious works along with the poets funeral mask.

On the two upper floors are precious pieces of 1700s furniture in Neapolitan and Sicilian style porcelain by Doccia and Giustiniani, as well as Venetian glass and statuettes from 1750 by the Royal Capodimonte manufacture. The walls hold works by major painters from the Neapolitan School of the 1600s and 1700s like Luca Giordano, Salvator Rosa, Giacomo Del Po, De Mura, and il Vaccaro. There are also works by the most famous names from the School of Posillipo such as Duclere, Pitloo and Giacinto Gigante who, with their water-colors alone, deserve a visit to the museum as these are considered their finest works. Not to be missed is the room dedicated to the old masters of Sorrentine marquetry like Damora and Gargiulo

Sedil Dominova

The Sedil was the building in which the city fathers gathered to make laws and decide on economic and administrative matters. A magnificent majolica-tiled dome covers the arcaded loggia of the Sedil Dominova. The city coat of arms, as well as those of the various families of the Sorrento aristocracy, are displayed in its interior. The interior also has some stunning 15th Century frescos. Today the local men of the town use the place to drink coffee, play cards, and exchange gossip.

Visiting Sorranto

Sorrento is close by the island of Capri, the ancient playground of the Emperor Tiberius, and is accessible to it by ferry. Busses also come to the city from Amalfi and there are trains from nearby Naples. Sorrento is also close to some excellent beaches and nature reserves.


 




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