Sorrento, on the Bay of Naples, near Mount Vesuvius, is not only a fine resort town, near numerous beaches and nature reserves, but is filled with historical attractions.
The earliest evidence of human settlement in the Sorrento
Peninsula suggests Greek and
Phoenician occupancy. However area soon became a Roman colony, until the final
collapse of the Empire. During the Middle Ages, around the 9th century AD, Sorrento
managed to free herself from outside control and establish the Duchy of
Sorrento. The Duchy of Sorrento covered the whole of the peninsula, and was
soon became a prosperous economy based on ship chandlery, and the sale and
production of citrus fruits and wine. Around 1100, the Duchy lost its
independence to become a protectorate of Normandy,
with the advantage of receiving protection against attacks from pirates and the
Lombards.
In 1544 the poet Torquato Tasso, was born in Sorrento.
He was the renowned author of Jerusalem Delivered and other poems. In 1558 Sorrento
suffered a violent invasion by the Turks. The city was sacked and the
population was decimated.
At around the start of the 18th century, after a period of bitter strife between
the peasant population and rich landowners, Sorrento emerged as a popular
tourist resort, much loved by visitors from all over the world for its mild
climate and flourishing countryside. By 1800, Sorrento's
economy was based primarily on tourism. Over the years Sorrento
has been the favorite destination of such luminaries of European culture as
Lord Byron, Keats, Goethe, Dickens, Wagner, Ibsen and Nietzsche. At the start
of the 20th century, agriculture was given a second wind, thanks to intensive
cultivation of citrus fruits, which were exported throughout the Italian
peninsula and overseas.
Basilica di San Antonino
This basilica was built around the 10th century in honor of Saint Anthony,
patron saint of navigators and of the city of Sorrento.
He was born in Campagna, a town near Salerno,
came to Sorrento and here died on 15 February 471. The crypt holds the
tomb of Saint Anthony, where thousands of votive offerings have been made by
sailors. On the right side of the Church one can admire a splendid portal of
the 11th century with an architrave supported by Corinthian capitals of the
Roman era. On the inside of the Church are valuable paintings of Giovanni
Bernardo Lama and the representation of the siege of Sorrento
in 1648, a splendid painting by Giacomo Del Po. Even the Vestry of the Church
contains two precious treasures: the fragments of an antique and elaborated
majorica pavement and a beautiful Neapolitan Christmas crib of the 17th
century, with statues made by the most famous sculptors of the school
of Sammartino. The clothes of the
shepherds are made of precious fabrics enriched by valuable laces. In the lobby
of the Church two whale ribs are posted as a memento of the most famous miracle
attributed to the patron Saint of Sorrento.
It is narrated, in fact, that a whale had swallowed a child and that the Saint
liberated the young boy drawing him safe and sound from the mouth of the whale.
As testimony of this wonderful miracle, the people of Sorrento
placed these two whale bones at the entrance of the Basilica in honor of the
Saint.
Sorrento Cathedral
Built around the 11th century, Sorrento Cathedral houses some marvelous
frescoes by Neapolitan painters. There is a marble portal, built around 1474,
in Renaissance style surmounted by the Aragonese escutcheon. The church houses
an archbishop throne in fine marble built around 1573, and a wooden marquetry
work of Sorrentine craftsmen and of the Neapolintan school of the 1700s. The
triple-tiered bell tower rests on an archway into which three classical columns
and a number of other fragments have been set. The bell tower is home to an
ancient ceramic clock.
Il Chiostro di San Francisco
This is a historic triptych set in a tuff wall known in Peninsula
as a conventual complex of San Francesco d'Assisi. The elements which
characterize the triptych are the Church, the Monastery and the Cloister.
The Church dates back to the 14th century and is a triumph of baroque style
with rich stucco decorations. It contains numerous treasures, like a majestic
wooden main door of the 1500's, two frescoes portraying Sant'Antonio of Padova
and San Giacomo and a splendid wooden statue of San Francesco with Christ
Crucified. In 1992, on the outside of the Church, a bronze statue representing
San Francesco was placed, created by the sculptor Alfiero Nena.
The Monastery is nearby the church, founded in the 7th century, given to the
Franciscan monks in the 14th century. The Cloister is a perfect fusion of
different architectural styles. On two sides of the porch are crossed tuff arches,
stylistic expression of the late 14th Century. On the other two sides are
impressive round arches on octagonal pillars. One will notice the presence of
spoils from pagan temples, skillfully integrated architecturally and used as
corner pillars. During the summer, the Cloister is the venue for arts
exhibitions and music concerts.
Correale di Terranova Museum
In this fascinating museum one can find paintings by 17th and 18th century
Neapolitan artists, inlaid furniture, Capodimonte majolica and porcelain ware,
lacework. There is also an assortment of Greek and Roman artifacts. The palazzo
where the museum is located has an outstanding view of the nearby Gulf
of Naples.
The twenty room museum is more like a town house or villa than a typical
museum with miles and miles of corridors. The archeological section with Greek
and Roman artifacts found on Sorrentine territory as well as remains from the
antique Cathedral of St. Renato is on the ground floor. On the same floor is a
room dedicated to Tasso which holds his precious works along with the poets
funeral mask.
On the two upper floors are precious pieces of 1700s furniture in Neapolitan
and Sicilian style porcelain by Doccia and Giustiniani, as well as Venetian
glass and statuettes from 1750 by the Royal Capodimonte manufacture. The walls
hold works by major painters from the Neapolitan
School of the 1600s and 1700s like
Luca Giordano, Salvator Rosa, Giacomo Del Po, De Mura, and il Vaccaro. There
are also works by the most famous names from the School
of Posillipo such as Duclere,
Pitloo and Giacinto Gigante who, with their water-colors alone, deserve a visit
to the museum as these are considered their finest works. Not to be missed is
the room dedicated to the old masters of Sorrentine marquetry like Damora and
Gargiulo
Sedil Dominova
The Sedil was the building in which the city fathers gathered to make laws
and decide on economic and administrative matters. A magnificent majolica-tiled
dome covers the arcaded loggia of the Sedil Dominova. The city coat of arms, as
well as those of the various families of the Sorrento
aristocracy, are displayed in its interior. The interior also has some stunning
15th Century frescos. Today the local men of the town use the place to drink
coffee, play cards, and exchange gossip.
Visiting Sorranto
Sorrento is close by the island
of Capri, the ancient playground of
the Emperor Tiberius, and is accessible to it by ferry. Busses also come to the
city from Amalfi and there are trains from nearby Naples.
Sorrento is also close to some
excellent beaches and nature reserves.