Between 5700 and 2800 BC, Neolithic Cretans lived in caves or in rude houses. These people were primarily hunter-gatherers, but who also farmed and raised livestock. The Minoans arrived in Crete in about 3000 BC from North Africa or the Middle East, bringing with them the bronze making skills. The Minoans thrived in Crete, as their use of bronze allowed them to build better boats which helped to expand their trade opportunities. Around 2000 BC, they built their first palaces. Improvements in technology allowed the Minoans to produce fine pottery and jewelry. The Minoans had become the first advanced civilization to appear in Europe.

The golden age of the Minoans lasted from 1700 BC to 1450 BC. Palaces, which were destroyed by an earthquake in 1700 BC, were rebuilt in a more complex design with multiple stories, sumptuous royal apartments and reception halls and advanced drainage systems. Some wonderful frescoes were created during this period. However, another, even greater earthquake occurred in 1450 BC and brought Minoan civilization to an abrupt end.

Crete then underwent over three millennia of settlement by various peoples. First to come were the Mycaeans from the mainland from 1400 BC to 1100 BC. Then the Dorians came, also from the mainland, and remained from 1100 BC to 67 BC. This period saw almost constant warfare between Crete's city states. The Romans took over in 67 BC. In 27 BC Gortyn or present-day Gortyna became the capital of Crete. When Rome's power declined at the end of the 4th century AD, Crete became part of the Byzantine Empire and was ruled from Constantinople. The Arabs conquered Crete in around 824; the Byzantines reclaimed it in 960 and sold it to the Venetians in 1204. It fell to the Turks in 1669 and became part of the Ottoman Empire. It was given to Egypt in 1830, and returned to the Ottomans in 1840.

In 1898 the Turks were ejected from Crete, which was then ruled by an international administration. Crete was unified with Greece in 1913. Crete was invaded and conquered by the Germans in World War II, despite a vigorous resistance by British forces and Cretan partisans. Crete escaped the rigors of the Greek Civil War of the late 1940s, but not the rule of the right wing Colonels’ Coup of the mid 1960s. Since the 1980s, Greece, including Crete, has been ruled by a succession of left wing governments.

Lato

The ancient city of Lato is one of Crete's few non-Minoan ancient sites. Lato was one of the most important Dorian city-states in Crete, although it must have existed before the Dorians. It is built between two hills, at a site easily fortified from attack but also with a splendid view over a large area of the Mirambello Bay. The city was named after Leto, mother of Apollo and Artemis, although the main goddess worshipped in the city was Eileithyia, who was also depicted on the coins cut by the city. Though the ruins are some of the best in Greece, they are infrequently visited.

The main gate to the excavated city is to the west of the site where a stepped road leads to the agora, or market place. On the right were once workshops and shops. On the left, the road leads to an entrance leading to the main part of the city. The center of the town is at the top of the hill and from here there is a magnificent view down to Lato's ancient port, Agios Nikolaos. The agora consists of a pentagonal building at the top of the road between two hills. It was not only used for trade, but also for political and cultural activities as well. Southwest of the agora lay the remains of a large temple and seats of a theater. Near the temple is an altar where a fire burned continuously as a sign of the continuity of the city with its past. The prytaneum or administrative building and the nobles' dining hall are located behind the theater area.

Knossos

This palace, in a beautiful site just southeast of Heraklion, is the most magnificent, intricate and evocative of Crete's Minoan sites. The imposing Palace is built on the hill of Kefala next to the river Kairatos, in a site that has many natural advantages, including a strong defensive position, access to good water supplies, access to the sea and proximity to a large fertile forest. The forest produced the Cephalonian Pine a tree that supplied the beams and the columns for the construction of the Palace.

The site itself includes the Palace of Knossos, the Minoan Houses, the Little Palace, the Royal Villa, the villa "Dionysos" with famous Roman mosaics, the south Royal Temple/Tomb and the Caravanserai. The Palace of Knossos and the Minoan houses are open for visits to the public. The four wings of the palace are arranged around a central courtyard, containing the royal quarters, workshops, shrines, storerooms, repositories, the throne room and banquet halls. The east wing contains the residential quarters, the workshops and a shrine. The west wing was where the storerooms with the large pithoi or storage jars, the shrines, the repositories, the throne room and, on the upper floors, the banquet halls were located. The north wing contained the so-called Customs House, a lustral basin and the stone-built theatrical area. The South Propylon is the most imposing building in the south wing. A second, paved courtyard to the west of the palace, equipped with the processional ways, was probably used for religious ceremonies. The walls of the palace were decorated with many frescos, mainly depicting religious ceremonies. Many of the artifacts recovered from Knossos are displayed in a museum in Heraklion.

Phaestos

Phaestos was the second most important palace city of Minoan Crete. Of all the Minoan sites, Phaestos has the most awesome location, with views of the Mesara Plain and of Mt Ida. The layout of the palace is identical to Knossos, with rooms arranged around a central court. The old palace was destroyed in 1700 BC, rebuilt, and then destroyed again in 1450 BC. Most of the ruins, which are visible today, are from the new palace. 3 km away, in Agia Triada, lay the remains of a royal mansion and the Sarcophagus.

Heraklion

Besides several museums, Heraklion contains attractions dating from the Venetian period. These include the Basilica di San Marco and the Loggia. The Morozini Fountain with its four lions has given its name to the central spot of the town. The Archeological Museum houses ancient objects discovered at the most important archaeological sites in Crete. Minoan art is nowhere better represented. These include vases, clay sarcophagi, gold and ivory jewelry, frescos, miniature sculptures, stoneware, metalwork, and seal stones. The Historical Museum contains artifacts from more modern times, including Byzantine, Venetian, and Turkish periods. There is an exhibition of Cretan folk art and a room dedicated to the great writer Nikos Kazantzakis.

Visiting Crete

Crete can be accessed by air or by ferry from many points in mainland Greece, particularly Athens. There an excellent bus system that connects places of interest within Crete.