During Roman times, Bath was a religious center where a Roman temple and bath house attracted visitors from all over the Empire. In the 18th Century, waters from the hot springs and the social scene attracted visitors from a newer Empire, the British one.
Prehistoric people probably were aware of the hot
springs. Legend has it that King Bladud, a refugee
from the fall of Troy and father of
King Lear, founded the town some 2800 years ago. A bath in the muddy swamps supposedly
cured his leprosy. In Celtic times the sacred spring was surrounded by
an oak tree grove, where druids worshipped the guardian goddess Sul. Upon
their conquest of Britain,
the Romans established the town of Aquae Sulis
in AD 44 and built the extensive baths complex and a temple to the goddess
Sulis-Minerva. Long after the Romans had departed, the Anglo-Saxons arrived and
in 944 a monastery was founded on the site of the present abbey. Throughout the
Middle Ages, Bath was an
ecclesiastical center and a wool trading town.
It wasn't until the early 18th century that Ralph Allen and
Richard 'Beau' Nash made Bath the
center of fashionable society. Ralph Allen developed the quarries at Coombe
Down and employed the two John Woods, father and son, to build the glorious Georgian-style
buildings one sees today. The life in Bath
at the time is graphically depicted in the novels of Tobias Smollett and in the
plays of Richard Brinsley Sheridan. Jane Austen's novels Northanger Abbey and
Persuasion, both in 1817/18, portray with delicate satire and keen perception
the fashionable life of Bath about
1800. In the 19th Century sea bathing started to draw visitors away
from Bath to coastal resorts. By
the mid-19th century the city was thoroughly out of fashion.
Bath was bombed
during World War II and several buildings were damaged or destroyed.
Fortunately, most of its grand architecture remains to delight the thousands of
visitors who visit the city each year.
Bath Abbey
During the past twelve centuries, three churches have
occupied the site of Bath Abbey. There was an Anglo Saxon church founded in 757
and destroyed in 1066 during the Norman Conquest. The Normans
built a cathedral in 1090, but by the 15th Century it was in ruins
due to neglect. The current Bath Abbey was built between 1499 and 1616, making
it the last great medieval church raised in England.
It was wrecked during Henry VIII’s dissolution of the monasteries, but was
restored by subsequent generations.
The most striking feature of the abbey's exterior is the
west façade, where angels climb up and down stone ladders, commemorating a
dream of the founder of the abbey, Bishop Oliver King, to
pull down the ruined Norman cathedral and raise the present building on its
foundations. The nave's wonderful fan vaulting, which runs the whole
length of the building, was erected in the 19th century. At the East end, above the altar, stained glass in
the huge window illustrates the Biblical story of the life of Jesus Christ.
Beau Nash was buried in the nave and is honored by a simple
monument quite out of keeping with his rather flamboyant character. The Bath
Abbey Heritage Vaults opened in 1994 on the south side of the abbey. The Vaults
contain a subterranean exhibition that traces the history of Christianity at
the abbey site since Saxon times.
Jane Austen
Center
For devotees of her novels, a visit to the Jane
Austen Center,
located in a 18th Century Georgian town house, is a must. It is an
exhibit that depicts how living in Bath
affected her life and her literary work. Austen was one of Bath’s
most famous residents, having paid two long visits to the city towards the end
of the eighteenth century, and from 1801 to 1806 making Bath
her home. Displays include period costume, contemporary prints of the city and
exhibits relating to the author's personal life, family and homes.
Roman Baths
The Roman Baths at Bath
are the best preserved of its kind in the world. The Roman Baths are below
ground level, with the Georgian era Pump Room on the ground floor.
One enters the Roman Baths through the reception hall, which
has a ceiling decorated with images of the four seasons and covered by a dome.
From there one goes to the terrace which overlooks the baths and is lined with
statues of Roman governors of Britain,
Emperors, and other military leaders.
The Sacred Spring
The very heart of the baths is the Sacred Spring. Hot water
at a temperature of 460C rises here at the rate of 240,000 gallons every
day and has been doing this for thousands of years. In the past this natural phenomenon was believed to be the work of the gods.
In Roman times a great Temple was built next to the spring dedicated to the goddess
Sulis Minerva, a deity with healing powers. The mineral rich water
from the spring supplied the magnificent bath-house which attracted visitors
from across the Roman Empire. Objects, such as coins and
messages on sheets of lead or pewter, which were thrown into the spring as
offerings to the goddess, are displayed nearby.
The Temple
Surviving from the temple is a
great ornamental pediment. It has been re-erected in the Roman Baths Museum. It carries the image of a fearsome head carved in Bath stone and it is thought to be that of the Gorgon, which was a powerful
symbol of the goddess Sulis Minerva. The temple courtyard, where people
gathered to worship the goddess, is also open for visitors.
The Great Bath
The centerpiece of the Roman Bath
is the Great Bath, a pool, lined with 45 sheets of lead, and filled with
hot spa water. It once stood in an enormous barrel-vaulted hall that rose
to a height of 40 meters. The bath is 1.6 meters deep, which was ideal for
bathing and has steps leading down on all sides. Niches around the baths
would have held benches for bathers and possibly small tables for drinks or
snacks. To the east and west are further suites of baths and heated
rooms.
The Georgian Pump Room
This salon, where spa water was drawn for drinking, was
considered the center of social activity in the 18th Century. The
pump room contains a number of artifacts, including the Tompion clock, given to the city in 1709 by Thomas Tompion, England’s best known clockmaker, as well as some sedan chairs from
the period. A visitor will be able to “take the waters” just as 18th
Century visitors did as well as unwind at a fine restaurant after a visit to
the Roman baths below.
Royal Crescent
The Royal Crescent
is a sweeping crescent of spectacular Georgian townhouses, which were built
back in 1767-1774. The townhouses overlook a large private lawn and have a
wonderful view of the hills and the river Avon. These were
lodging houses for the gentry who visited Bath
to take the waters and participate in the social scene. Royal
Crescent has been redecorated and restored to
show what it was like in the 18th Century.
Visiting Bath
Bath is
accessible from London and other
English cities by coach or train. Bath
has a bus service, but the town suffers from the usual urban traffic snarls.