Cyprus has always been an important trading center located between the empires of Europe, Africa and the Middle East. Therefore, throughout history, someone has always wanted to take it from someone else. The Mycenaeans conquered the island first. Then followed the Phoenicians, Egyptians, Assyrians and then the Persians. Alexander the Great took the island from the Persians. Ptolemy seized Cyprus after Alexander’s death. Rome took over in 58 BC and kept the place in relative peace and security until the 7th century. Then the Byzantine and Islamic empires started three centuries of conflict over the island. In 1191, Richard the Lionheart, on his way to the Crusades, dropped into Cyprus for some conquering. He sold the island to the Knights Templar. The Templars then sold the island to Guy de Lusignan, whose heirs ruled for three centuries, repressing the local culture and the Greek Orthodox Church, but making vast improvements for the economy. The Venetians took over in 1489. They were booted out by the expanding Ottoman Empire in 1571, which kept Cyprus for 300 years before handing it over to Britain.

In 1925 Cyprus was made a Crown colony of the UK. The Cypriots began agitation for self-determination, thus laying the foundations for today's Greek/Turkish conflict. While many Greek Cypriots wanted to form a union with Greece, the Turkish Cypriots were not as enthusiastic. By 1950, the Cypriot Orthodox Church and 96% of Greek Cypriots wanted union with Greece. In response, the British drafted a new constitution, which was accepted by the Turkish population but opposed by the National Organization of Cypriot Fighters, who insisted on union with Greece. NOCF began a guerrilla war against the British.

In August 1960, Britain granted Cyprus its independence. The Greek Archbishop Makarios became president, while a Turk, Kükük, was made vice-president. By 1964 Makarios was moving towards stronger links with Greece, and civil violence began to rise. The United Nations sent in a peace-keeping force. In 1967 a military junta took over the Greek government and the desire for union with Greece abated. Even the most fervent Greece-lovers didn't want union with such a repressive regime. Greece didn't give up, though: on July 15, 1974 a CIA-sponsored, Greek-organized coup overthrew Makarios. Turkey responded by invading the island, taking the northern third of the island, forcing 180,000 Greek Cypriots to flee their homes. In 1983 Turkish Cypriots proclaimed a separate nation in their part of Cyprus, naming it the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC). No country except for Turkey has recognized this "state".

Nikosia

Nikosia, the capital of Cyprus, is divided between the Turkish occupied north and the government controlled south. The most interesting part of the city to visit is the Old City, a picturesque fusion of 16th-century walls, pedestrian precincts, pavement cafes and squares, brimming with charm and character.

Cyprus Archeological Museum

This museum has displays of archaeological artifacts from all over the island. Some of the exhibits are as old as 8,500 years. The museum is arranged in chronological order. The first hall contains artifacts, including pottery and implements, from the Neolithic and Chalcolithic periods. The other rooms trace the history of Cyprus through the ages from the Bronze Age, Hellenic Period, Mycenaean times, and Roman Period to the early Byzantine. In the basement there are several reconstructed graves resting in a dark cellar complete with skeletal remains and grave adornments.

Byzantium Museum

The Byzantine Museum in the Old City of Nikosia contains the largest collection of icons on the island. The icons date from the 9th through to the 18th centuries. The museum also has an art gallery exhibiting oil paintings, maps and lithographs.

St. John’s Cathedral

The Greek Orthodox Cathedral in the Old City was built in 1662 by Archbishop Nikiforos and dedicated to Saint John the Theologian. The 18th-century wall paintings show Biblical scenes and illustrate the discovery of the tomb of Saint Barnabas at Salamis. The Cathedral’s prize features, however, are the iconostasis of carved wood covered with gold leaf, and the magnificent double-headed eagles.

Old City Walls

The walls that completely encircle the Old City date from the Venetian era in the 16th century, and have a circumference of three miles. Eleven heart-shaped bastions are interspersed along the walls, which have only three gates, in the north, south and east. The Famagusta Gate, has been restored and serves as the Lefkosia Municipal Cultural Center, used for exhibitions, conferences, lectures and occasional performances. The gate’s vaulted passage leads on to the moat encircling the Old City, which has been converted into a garden.

Tamassos

Tamassos is 12 miles south west of Nicosia. It was an ancient city kingdom renowned for its rich copper works. Recent archaeological excavations at the site have unearthed some exciting finds in the Royal Tombs. These were six limestone sculptures, two representing life-sized sphinxes and four lions, in a crouching position. The sculptures are believed to date to the 6th century BC when Cyprus was under Egyptian control. One can explore the Tombs, which are eerie and dark, just the sort of place Indiana Jones or Lora Croft would find themselves in.

Kolossi Castle

Outside the city of Lemesos, Kolossi Castle, built in the 13th Century by the Knights of St. John, towers over a landscape of vineyards. It served as the headquarters of the Knights after the fall of Acre to the Muslim. The present castle was built 1454 on the site of the previous building that dated from the days of the Crusaders, but the semi-circular foundations of the original can still be seen on east side. It's accessible by a short drawbridge that was originally defended by a machicolation high above, through which defenders would pour molten lead or boiling oil on the heads of unwanted visitors. The coat of arms visible on the east wall of the castle is a very distinctive group of coats of arms that are contained within a cross-shaped frame. The royal coat of arms is flanked on each side, by those of Grand Masters of the order. In the lower part of the cross is the coat of arms of Louis de Magnac.

Once inside the castle there are two large chambers; the first was a kitchen and has a huge fireplace. From this level there is a spiral staircase leading to two other chambers on the second level. The rooms are empty but stone benches flank most of the windows. Again, one of the rooms has a large fireplace and historians find these very interesting as they are not found in any other historical buildings. One room has a fireplace staircase to the roof. A painting of the crucifixion is in main chamber of first floor. Another spiral staircase leads to the flat roof terrace and battlements. The basement consists of three storage rooms were originally only accessible from above. Two of the rooms have wells

Salamis

The ruins here, north of Famagusta, are Cyprus’ best preserved pre Christian site. There is a fully restored Roman amphitheater, as well as a gymnasium with marble baths and some tombs. The mosaics are particularly lovely. An archeological museum and the Monastery of St. Barnabas are nearby.

St. Hilarion Castle

South of Kyrenia, St. Hilarion Castle was named after a monk who lived in a cave on the mountain overlooking the plain of Kyrenia. It was originally built by the Byzantines to defend the island against Muslim attack. It is filled with hidden rooms, tunnels, overgrown gardens and steep staircases and paths. The castle has three parts. The parapets for the defense of the main entrance were fortified by the Byzantines in the 11th century. The lower section of the castle was used for the soldiers and the horses. The middle section contained the kitchen, the church and a big cistern. At the entrance to the castle in the upper section there is a Lusignan Gate. There is a courtyard in the middle. The nobility used to live in the Eastern section. The kitchen and the other rooms for daily use were in the western section. The panoramic view through the Queen’s window, carved in the Gothic style, on the second floor of the royal apartments is superb. The Prince John Tower is at the top.

Visiting Cyprus

There are airports at Larnaka and Pafos, with flights from most of Europe and the Middle East. North Cyprus has an international airport at Ercan, but only Turkish airlines fly there. By sea, one can get to Greece and Israel from the government controlled port in Lemesos. There are ferries from North Cyprus to Turkey, but one cannot exit Cyprus this way unless you entered from Turkey.

There are bus services within and between towns in Cyprus every day except Sunday. Those between major cities are cheap, frequent and efficient. To travel on a Sunday, one will need to get a service taxi. They're good for most places in the government controlled area. North Cyprus has service taxis between Kyrenia and North Nicosia. It's easy to rent cars and bikes all over the country.

The UN Green Line, which separates the Greek and Turkish Cypriot regions, is currently open. Travel between the regions is both legal and straightforward. European nationals with a valid passport can cross from the north to the south at any time.