While you are in Paris, take a day trip to the Palace of Versailles, one of Europe’s largest and most spectacular royal homes, about 30 minutes from Paris.
Visiting Versailles
Versailles is easy to reach by frequent train service from the center of Paris. The fare is included on most European rail passes; otherwise a round trip costs about $8.
The palace and the grounds are a short walk from Rive Gauche station, reached by regional train (RER) rather than the metro. The town itself has a reasonable selection of bars, restaurants and shops, as well as a lively market in the town square several days a week. Some choose to stay in the town rather than Paris itself, as accommodation is generally cheaper than in Paris and the journey into Paris is so easy. It is strange to see the contrast between the town of Versailles, with its typical provincial main street, and the spectacular palace which dominates one end of the town. Don't miss it.
If you visit, try to avoid weekends and holidays, when the place can get packed with crowds of French schoolchildren, and arrive early in the day as you need to allow a full day to see everything. I visited on a Sunday afternoon in summer, and literally could not move for the crowds. Admission to Versailles only gets you into the palace itself – there are separate admission charges for the gardens, the stables and the Trianons, so you really have to decide what is worth seeing. The highlights are the palace itself, and if you have extra time, the gardens. You can tour the main building on your own, or pay extra to join one of several guided tours.
Apart from the usual selection of restaurants and souvenir shops, Versailles tries to make visiting easy – the palace boasts several ATMs and places where you can leave luggage. Today, restoration still continues constantly at the huge palace, and you may find some areas are temporarily sealed off when you visit. A major project to restore the famous Hall of Mirrors began recently and is expected to last through 2007 – the largest cultural sponsorship program ever undertaken in France. John D Rockefeller, amongst others, contributed heavily to the restoration of the palace, during his lifetime.
Louis XIV’s Masterpiece
The palace and its spacious gardens were commissioned by King Louis XIV and took almost 50 years to construct. At one time, almost 2200 men were employed on its construction. In 1682, Louis XIV transferred the court to Versailles, where all French monarchs lived until the revolution, and the town of Versailles became the unofficial capital city of the Kingdom of France. About 3000 people lived at Versailles, which must have been necessary as one of the many duties of the servants was to hold the king’s ermine robe! At the height of its power, Versailles was well known for its lavish entertainment and fabulous banquets. Versailles stopped being a royal residence in 1789 when a mob marched on the palace and forced the king and queen (Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette) to return to Paris. The events that followed next helped shape the history of Europe and became known as the French revolution. Versailles was prevented from being demolished by king Louis-Philippe, who donated his own money to turn it into a museum.
The whole palace is of course spectacular and lavishly appointed, but there are some highlights that should not be missed. The Hall of Mirrors, with its 17 great mirrors facing the windows, is probably the best known room in Versailles – this is where the treaty of Versailles was signed in 1919, ending World War I. The clock room contains a famous astronomical clock, which took 20 years to construct and you can set your watch by as it supposedly is designed to keep time until the year 9999! Mozart played in this room for the royal family on several occasions, at the age of 7.
The other “must-see” sight in the palace itself is the collection of 6 bedroom suites known as the Grands Appartements. As you might expect, each one is magnificently decorated and each one is named after a painting on the ceilings. In one of the rooms, known as the Hercules Salon, you can see the largest and most ornate fireplace in the palace, which was carved from a single slab of marble. In the same room, the body of Louis XIV was put on display in 1715 after his death
The Trianons
In addition to the palace itself, there are two separate smaller buildings known as the Grand and Petit Trianons. The Grand Trianon is built in lovely pink and white marble, while the smaller building is noted for its ornately decorated woodwork. These buildings were used as lodging houses for guests, and by Marie Antoinette as a peaceful retreat from the hectic palace life. In later years, the buildings have been used to house important guests – President Nixon once slept in the Grand Trianon on a state visit to France.
The Palace Gardens and Stables
The latest attraction at Versailles is the newly renovated and recently reopened Royal Stables. The huge stables once were home to 600 of the king’s horses – today they house 20 beautiful Lusitanian horses from Portugal. In addition to the usual guided tour, you can also watch costumed riders demonstrate skillful equestrian choreography, all set to period music.
One of the best things you can do at Versailles is simply to have a picnic lunch in the spacious gardens, which are some of the loveliest in the world. The gardens are so large, you can actually take a train or horse drawn carriage ride around the grounds. There is even a mile long Grand Canal, laid out to catch the rays of the setting sun, where King Louis used to take gondola rides. In 1999 a violent storm lashed the area in and around Paris, destroying 10,000 trees as well as blowing out some windows in the palace. You can do your own part in helping to restore the grounds by sponsoring a tree for about $150.
If you visit Versailles during summer, there are frequent programs of classical music concerts which take place in the palace grounds. But one of the unforgettable spectacles is the event known as “Dreams of the Sun” which occur occasionally. These festive affairs feature not only spectacular fireworks and music, but also 200 actors dressed in period costume. It is an experience not to be missed. And as a fitting finale to your visit, try to stay until the grounds close around dusk when the palace is beautifully floodlit.