As a poverty-stricken college student, half of my clothes came from secondhand shops, but no one ever seemed to notice. In fact, more often than not I would find myself asked about a particular jacket, dress, or pair of shoes as a prelude to a compliment -- but many thrifty shoppers find the prospect of "thrifting" to be daunting. There's so much junk to wade through ... how does even the most thorough shopper ever find anything good in all that garbage?
Unfortunately, as is true of so many things in life, ninety-five percent of everything in any given thrift store is going to be one hundred percent crap. It is up to you, as optimistic bargain-hunter, to sift out the remaining five percent. It may be time consuming, and you may not always hit fashion pay-dirt, but your first big score will make it all worthwhile.
Be prepared: bring cash
Major chains like Goodwill, the Salvation Army, and America’s Thrift Store will take most major credit cards, but smaller groups often do not. Local church organizations that run mini-flea markets out of the basement will be happiest with bills.
Scan for prospects
Drag your eyes (and/or fingers) across a rack without sifting through every single article of clothing. Instead, stop only when you glimpse a color, texture or pattern that really catches your eye. More often than not, your best bet is to stick with solid colors, but this is not a universal truth or anything -- just a good rule of thumb. Fashion trends may come and go, but that paisley skort set is unlikely to return to hipness.
Examine your finds
When you do snag a potential purchase, check it over thoroughly to make sure it doesn't have any stains or holes. Some imperfections might be fixable if you feel motivated -- for example, a tear along a seam, or a slightly undone hem are easily enough corrected. But before you buy a flawed item, see if you can't haggle a little. Point out the imperfection, and some places may come down a buck or two. This often works particularly well at flea markets or yard sales – especially if the sale is for a church or youth group. More often than not, these groups are unloading donated goods to raise funds, and leftovers are merely going to be turned over to Goodwill anyway.
Seasonal apparel
Never neglect the winterwear section, as this area is usually a prime vintage spot. When people upgrade their outerwear, they are reluctant to throw away their old (probably once expensive) clothes, and they are more likely to donate them to a secondhand shop than chuck them into a dumpster. Besides, coats tend to hold up well, even with prolonged use. In my experience, most coats and/or jackets are discarded because they've come to look "dated," and not because there's anything wrong with them. On the one hand, this leaves you with a lot of short, cinched-at-the-waist 80s travesties with shoulder pads ... but on the other hand, a classic from the 60s and 70s can "hip" up your closet nicely. One of my own wardrobe stars is a vintage 1969 Argentinean leather jacket in an exquisite shade of russet that you just don’t see anymore. The tag read $3.88, but when the clerk saw that it was missing a button, he docked fifty cents.
Formalwear
Visit the formalwear racks. ninety-nine percent of what you find there will be atrocious post-wedding bridesmaid-horrors, but every now and again you'll be pleasantly surprised. This is particularly true if you live someplace with a high population of well-to-do elderly people. Living in Florida, I once found a 1933 runway piece that turned out to be worth nearly a thousand dollars. I paid less than twenty for it.
Be a brand name whore if at all possible
If you're ambivalent about whether or not to buy a certain item, check to see who made it. Brands like "Route 66," "Kathy Ireland," and "Jacklyn Smith" indicate that the clothes originally came from a chain store like K-Mart or Wal-Mart ... which is fine, but if you're going to buy cheap clothes, you may as well get them at full price. It's not that much more expensive, and at least they’ll be new.
Be on the lookout for store brands like "Gap" (simple, generally well-made clothes that will last a long time if taken care of), "Express" (sometimes classic, sometimes trendy, more often than not of good quality), or "Banana Republic" (expensive when brand new, but good clothes overall). You'll also find the odd assortment of Tommy Hilfiger, Ann Taylor, Perry Ellis or other designer brands.
When dealing with vintage goods (anything apparel-wise older than oh, say, 20 or 30 years), you may not recognize the manufacturer. Brand trends ebb and flow, so let the fabric make the call. Look for "whole" or natural fabrics when possible -- cotton, angora, cashmere, silk, wool, etc. -- as these typically hold up better than blends or synthetics.
Swing by the house goods
Again, ninety-nine percent of the stock will be junk, but I've picked up nifty coffee mugs, shelves, mirrors and racks for next to nothing. If you've got a few supplies for restoration handy, take a peek at the furniture. Even if it's ugly, chipped or peeling, if a piece is solid you can refinish it. Knobs, handles, and other hardware are simple enough to change, and can make a world of difference. I've seen some lovely furniture that was rescued in such a manner.
Check out the shoes
As with all clothing, check for structural integrity and/or any hidden nastiness. Most places will at least spray their shoes with disinfectant, but you can't count on it. If you're OCD to the core, you may want to bring some hand sanitizer or wipes; or, if you are expecting to try on shoes, stuff a pair of socks into your purse. You'll have the best luck if your feet are between sizes 6-9 (women's) and 9-12 (men’s), naturally, but I've seen some fantastic offerings for bigger and smaller tootsies.
Last of all, be patient
Sifting through crap takes time, and there's always the chance you'll strike out no matter how closely you look. Hidden treasures like 1970s russet leather jackets and patent leather Cobbie shoes do not lurk within every single Goodwill or Salvation Army. Success may take time, and it may take persistence.
So go ahead and make a day of it if you can pull a group together -- consider it a city-wide tour of cheapness. It’s a fun, inexpensive way to expand your wardrobe horizons and take a trip down fashion memory lane.