Although never formally trained in the craft of shoemaking, Manolo Blahnik has been creating the world’s most sought-after line of designer footwear for the past three decades. It was during a 1971 meeting with Diana Vreeland (then editor of U.S. Vogue) that Blahnik was persuaded to go into shoe design based solely on his imaginative (and highly creative) sketches. Wisely he took Vreeland’s advice and gradually learned the art of shoemaking. According to Blahnik, “I didn’t need it [formal training], because I’ve got the best taste in the world.”
He began designing shoes for men initially, at Zapata, a Chelsea boutique, but didn’t find it stimulating or challenging enough in a creative sense so he switched to women’s shoes. Within a year’s time, he was invited to collaborate with flamboyant fashion designer Ossie Clark, to prepare shoes for his runway show.
All the Rage
Within a short span of time, Blahnik’s footwear became all the rage. Fashion revue editors, hip, young actresses and socialites as well as Hollywood stars like Lauren Bacall were after his shoes. With a small loan he bought out Zapata’s owner in 1973 and set up his own shop with his sister Evangelina. In 1974, he appeared alongside actress Angelica Huston on the cover of British Vogue, becoming the first man to do so.
Big Break in the U.S.
His big break into the U.S. market occurred in 1978 when he launched his collection for Bloomingdale’s. The following year he opened his first American shop on New York’s Madison Avenue. In 1980 he designed shoes for Perry Ellis. In the U.S. his sales began to soar after he hired George Malkemus, a copywriter in Bergdorf Goodman’s marketing department, to be his business partner in 1982. While Manolo and his sister remained in charge of the European side of the business, Malkemus renegotiated Blahnik’s existing U.S. distribution agreements.