Some polyurethane finishes must be cleaned with a pH-neutral cleaner (check your manufacturer’s recommendations before choosing a cleaner). These types of cleaners are available at hardware and home improvement stores. If you’re using a pH cleaner, a two-step process is required, using two buckets and two mops. Fill one of the buckets with the cleaner, which will normally be diluted with water – mix carefully according to the package directions. Fill the other bucket with plain water. Wet a sponge mop with the cleaning solution, wring it out well, and then clean a small section of the floor. Dip your second mop into the water, wring it until half dry, and go over the spot you’ve just mopped in order to remove the excess cleaner.
Some finished can’t be damp-mopped. If you have an older finish, such as varnish or shellac, damp-mopping will remove the remaining shine. There are specialized cleaners available for these types of finish. If cleaning them doesn’t restore the shine, you can either wax over the old finish or start fresh by having the floor sanded, stained, and treated with a polyurethane coating.
Before you wax a hardwood floor, be sure to remove the old dirt and wax. Mix one cup of ammonia with one gallon of water, and evenly apply it to the floor with a damp mop. Once the floor has dried completely, apply the floor wax as per the manufacturer’s instructions. Ensure that the area is well-ventilated, because wood floor waxes are made with a petroleum solvent that can be irritating.
Liquid paste waxes provide a lustrous gleam rather than a high-gloss finish. They’re self-polishing and less slippery than most waxes, but they’re also slightly less durable, so if you use this type of wax you’ll have to apply a fresh coat several times a year. Because of the relatively frequent reapplications, there can be a buildup after a while; you may need to use a stripping solution to get rid of the old layers of wax before putting a new one down.
If you’re using a liquid paste wax, just pour out a little bit on a section of the floor that’s been prepared with the ammonia and water solution and spread it around with a long-handled wax applicator. This type of wax is very quick-drying – usually in about ten minutes – so it can harden on the applicator as well. Immediately after each use, you should wash the applicator’s soft pad with detergent.
Solid paste wax is more difficult to apply than liquid paste wax, but lasts longer, so there’s no need to reapply as frequently. Also, if you’re using this type of wax, you won’t need to strip the old away before applying a new coat, because paste wax tends to wear off with use.
If you’re using solid paste wax, you can apply it by hand using a soft cloth, or you can apply it with a waxing/buffing machine. These types of machines can be rented, but if you’re maintaining several wood floors, it may make better sense in the long run to buy one rather than rent it. Or simply invest in the services of a professional!
If you over-wax your floor, you’ll end up with a dull buildup. Only do the entire floor every other time. On the in-between times, wax high-traffic areas, but avoid areas that don’t get a lot of wear, such as corners and around furniture legs.
A simple recipe for a shiny wood floor from Linda Cobb, the “Queen of Clean”: Boil one quart of water and steep two teabags in it for a few minutes. Pour the tea into a bucket. Dip a soft cloth or mop into the tea and wring it out well; it should be damp, not wet. Wash the floor. The tannic acid in the tea will give the hardwood floor a beautiful shine.