Aside from the bookshops, one of the pleasures of a visit to Hay on Wye is to experience its unspoilt small town feel. A visit to Hay is a little bit like stepping back in time – the town is still largely a community of small family-owned shops and businesses. Here, everybody knows everybody else and most residents are involved in the book trade in some way. Hay can get crowded during the summer but the town has not yet been overwhelmed or spoiled by mass tourism – there are no resorts or 5 star hotels or traffic jams. The nearest railway station is in Hereford, about 20 miles away.
Most visitors to Hay still stay in one of the many basic but cozy guest houses or bed and breakfasts, and the best food in Hay is still a traditional home-cooked meal at one of the local pubs. My favorite pub in Hay is the “Old Black Lion Inn” – a traditional 14th century coaching inn, where Oliver Cromwell supposedly stayed.
Hay has a population of only around 1500, but despite its small size you should allow several days to thoroughly explore all the bookshops. Most of the shops are open every day except Christmas and New Year’s Day, with later opening hours during the summer months. In this part of England and Wales, it is still somewhat unusual to find stores open on Sunday – a day normally set aside for church and family. Hay is small enough to wander around comfortably without getting lost – just look for the town’s two main landmarks, the clock tower and the castle. There is also a weekly market and there are several craft stores and small shops specializing in local produce. The tourist office can supply a list of accommodation as well as a current list of bookshops.