Little remains of the original structures that once stood at Sarnath (formerly also known as Mrigadava, Rishipattana, and Isipatana). The Muslim invasion of 1194 AD left everything either heavily damaged or completely destroyed. The Dharmekh Stupa, however, stands proud among the ruins. The 128-foot structure was originally built by Emperor Ashoka, and later rebuilt and remodeled during the following four centuries. "This is where the Buddha delivered his first sermon to his five original disciples --or as the Buddhists say, he 'first turned the wheel of dharma' (the teachings)," says Ward. Here, the first Sangha (monkhood) was born. "Here is where Buddhism ceased to be the possession of one enlightened man, and first made the jump to others," adds Ward. "Buddha, Socrates, Jesus, Mohammed, they all had tremendous faith in the power of the word to change people, to liberate them. That it was possible to speak the truth, and transform another human being by that truth struck me so vividly at Sarnath."
The Mulagandhakuti (main temple) ruins and the remains of the Ashoka pillar are the other two main allures of Sarnath. While the original pillar was believed to be 49-foot high, only the base remains today, in which an inscription reads: “Let no one cause a division in the Sangha.”
The ruins cover an extensive area and are dispersed among well-maintained gardens that lead to the Deer Park, where the Buddha first taught the Dharma. Several modern temples are nearby, of which the Mulagandhakuti Vihara stands out because of its impressive wall paintings.
Kushinagar: The Passing
Kushinagar sits on the banks of the Hiranyavati River, in northern India. Here, the Buddha died and was cremated, or, as Buddhists prefer to see it, he went "beyond nirvana." Ruins from monasteries encompassing eight centuries are scattered around the park. The center focus is on the one-room Mahaparinirvana Temple, with its 20-foot-long recumbent statue made of red sandstone, representing the dying Buddha.
Two brick terraces top the 49-foot Ramabhar Stupa, a circular drum were the Buddha was cremated.