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How To Repair Squeaking Floors 
 
by Stephen Carthy October 04, 2005

Driving out the demon squeak

In cases where the finished flooring is loose, and you cannot get at it from below, the fix is quite simple. Drill a small diameter pilot hole for nailing. At an angle, drive a two and one half, or three inch, finishing nail into the offending boards so that the nails go through the subfloor. One nail goes on each side of the offending joint. The nails should be driven in so that they catch the tongue edge of one board and the grooved edge of the other board. Angle the nails in opposite directions, so the tips point toward each other. Have someone stand on the boards while you nail them. Do not drive the nails all the way down to the surface of the finished floor board because you will damage the surface of the finished board with your hammer. Drive the nails in to the point where the head of the nail is about a half inch above the surface of the board. Drive the nails in the rest of the way by using a nail set.

If you can get at the finished floor from below the squeak can be easily repaired if it is coming from the subfloor and not the finished floor. Shine a light on the subfloor from beneath and watch as someone walks about upstairs. Pinpoint any movement of the subfloor boards. Then you can drive a thin wooden wedge, coated with wood glue, between the joist and the offending board in the subfloor.

While you are down there under the floor, check the bridging strips too. They are those short pieces of wood that form the X shape between the joists. Make sure they are nailed in securely. If they are loose, the joists can twist, and that can leave a gap at the top of joist. If there is a gap at the top of the joist, the flooring can move, and thus squeak.

The neatest way to secure loose finished floor boards is from underneath also. If you can access the floorboards from below, you can drive long wood screws up from underneath and they will pull the finished floor boards down snug. The screws must be long enough to penetrate the subfloor and go about two-thirds of the way into the finished floor board. You do not want the screws to go right through the finished floor board!

In cases where you cannot get at the floor from underneath, you can drive the screws in from above. Always drill a pilot hole for screws going through the finished floor so that the finished floor boards do not crack. Drill pilot holes whether you are driving the screws from underneath, or above the finished floor. You will also need to counterbore the hole you drilled for the screw. The counterbore should be just deep enough so that the head of the screw will sit below the surface the floorboard when the screw is in all the way. Once the screw is in, fill the hole with colored plastic wood, or use a wood plug stained the same color as the floorboard. If you use a wooden plug, put a little wood glue on it so it won’t come out.

A piece of dowel, stained to match, will also do as a plug. Once the dowel is set, use a sharp chisel to make it level with the floorboard. Be careful not to gouge the floorboard with the chisel.

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