The better the preparation, the better the final finish will look.
The only supplies you will need for this step are one or two sheets each of
120, 150, and 220 grit sandpaper and a tack cloth for removing the dust.
Sanding larger pieces may be accomplished with less effort with an inexpensive
random-orbital sander, but hand sanding produces excellent results when done
carefully.
Sand in the direction of the grain of the wood, first with the 120 grit,
then with 150 followed by 220 grit. Each succeeding sanding should remove all
of the visible scratches left by the previous sanding.
Even with an electric sander, moving with the direction of the wood is a
good idea. The result you’re after is a clean, “white-wood” look that feels
smooth to the touch.
Remember to remove the dust after each sanding with the tack cloth,
especially prior to application of the new finish.
3. Applying the New Finish
If you’ve chosen to paint, simply apply one coat of primer and one or two
coats of the paint of your choice. Follow the directions on the paint container
for best results. A nylon brush of suitable width is best for latex paints, but
better results can be obtained with a bristle brush for oil-based paints.
When a clear finish is desired, the do-it-yourself refinisher can heighten
the beauty of some woods by staining it first. As a general rule, pine requires
a gel stain, while hardwoods such as oak, cherry, and maple look best with a
regular oil-based wiping stain. Wood can be colored a darker shade, but almost
never can it be made lighter than it starts.
To determine whether you would like to change the color, assuming you won’t
be painting the piece, simply dampen a small, inconspicuous area with water as
before. This will give the general appearance of the color with clear finish
applied.
If you do choose to stain the wood before applying the finish, follow the
manufacturer’s instructions on the label. Usually stain goes on easiest with a
cotton rag, followed by a drier rag until the preferred color is achieved. Once
again, allow the stain to dry, preferably overnight.
Selecting the appropriate type of new topcoat of finish to apply requires
some forethought. In general, quick-drying polyurethane goes on
easily, and retains durability and a good appearance for years under normal
use. Choose between a satin (low sheen or “flat” light reflection) and
semi-gloss or gloss (greater light reflection). The sheen is a matter of
personal preference; there is no difference in application or durability.
An excellent choice for furniture that will be used outdoors is spar
varnish. It applies as easily as polyurethane varnish, but becomes much
more durable to the weather once it has cured.
Oil-based varnish is often a good choice older pieces. It looks a
little less “plastic” than polyurethane, and has good alcohol and water
resistance.
On pine furniture and some other yellowish-colored woods, shellac
has a fine appearance, and provides a good moisture barrier. You may choose
between orange, which has a hint of yellow-orange color, or white (clear)
shellac. Shellac is also a good choice for baby furniture because of its
non-toxic properties.
No matter which type of finish you select, application is easiest with a
good quality brush, nylon or bristle, and by following the instructions on the
container. Make sure you don’t over-brush; simply apply the material in one
stroke, and feather it into the preceding strokes with one or two more passes.
It will level on its own. After the first coat has dried thoroughly, a second
coat is desirable in order to acquire depth and durability.